[pure-silver] Re: Under exposed frame

  • From: DarkroomMagic <info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: PureSilverNew <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 22:47:05 +0100

OK, it's not what Ryuji suggested, but try it anyway.

If you end up with not enough separation in the shadows, we can discuss a
complex split-grade exposure (can be a big help), but we need this first to
get a starting point for split-grade.





Regards



Ralph W. Lambrecht




On 1/2/05 10:34 PM, "Ryuji Suzuki" <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> From: DarkroomMagic <info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Under exposed frame
> Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 21:51:53 +0100
> 
>> If you've done that, and your hardest grade was not enough to get the
>> shadows dark enough, then do what Ryuji suggested, and up the exposure with
>> your hardest grade until the shadows improve and bleach the (now too dark)
>> highlights with farmers reducer. This technique simple gives the paper
>> contrast an additional boost. Otherwise, always expose for the highlights
>> and control shadows with paper contrast.
> 
> That is not what I suggested. I suggested to make one usual exposure,
> to a slightly on the lighter side, with say grade 3 or 3.5. Make
> necessary burning and dodging in this stage.  Then give another
> exposure with grade 5. The second exposure should be adjusted so that
> highlight and midtone are esseintially unaffected. This has
> superficially resemblance to split filter printing but it has a
> fundamental difference in that the second exposure is set so that the
> highlight and midtone fall left to the toe of the paper with grade 5
> filter. This often helps weak shadows with underexposed negatives,
> some foggy negatives, and negatives that suffered from a bit too much
> camera/lens flare. Papers with rather short toe with grade 5 filter
> work the best but any multicontrast paper would do.
> 
> It is important to use midtone as the exposure target in the first
> exposure because this is where the second exposure may
> interact. Highlights can be manaded in any conventional way because it
> is practically independent of the second exposure (if done right).
> 
> --
> Ryuji Suzuki
> "Keep a good head and always carry a light camera."
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