[pure-silver] Re: Under exposed frame

  • From: "J.R. Stewart" <jrstewart@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 22:54:35 -0500

I bet that works Rob. Preflashing has saved me a couple times.  It's not a 
common procedure. Justin will have to determine the amount of flash that 
produces the least amount of fog using non-image forming light, then half 
that to preflash the paper-- as a reference point, my preflash exposure is 
about 3 seconds with my 135 mm lens stopped down to f45 and about 25 inches 
away from the base board. A simple test strip should work, Justin.

Jim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rob Champagne" <app@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2005 7:50 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Under exposed frame


> Playing around with the image in photoshop shows full textural detail 
> throughout the image. I think he meant it is overexposed and such the 
> negative is very high contrast.
> Selective pre flashing should bring the highlight detail in withou 
> overexposing the shadows.
>
> rob c
>
>
> At 02/01/2005 21:51 +0100, you wrote:
>>Justin
>>
>>Nice image, worth a try!
>>
>>Underexposed negatives have too small of a density range and need harder
>>than normal paper. Overdeveloped negatives have too much and need softer
>>than normal paper. Underexposed AND overdeveloped negatives are the 
>>hardest
>>to print, because they have no shadow detail but a huge contrast.
>>
>> From what you tell us, it might just be just underexposed having trouble
>>with the shadows. In that case, I would start with a fairly hard grade and
>>test-strip until the highlights have the right exposure, ignoring the
>>shadows at first. Then adjust the contrast to get the shadows right, while
>>keeping highlight exposure on track.
>>
>>If you've done that, and your hardest grade was not enough to get the
>>shadows dark enough, then do what Ryuji suggested, and up the exposure 
>>with
>>your hardest grade until the shadows improve and bleach the (now too dark)
>>highlights with farmers reducer. This technique simple gives the paper
>>contrast an additional boost. Otherwise, always expose for the highlights
>>and control shadows with paper contrast.
>>
>>Final shadow improvement can be made through selenium toning, but don't
>>expect too much from that.
>>
>>Before I forget, I also recommend to burn-in the front carpet. Tell us how
>>it went through another post.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Regards
>>
>>
>>
>>Ralph W. Lambrecht
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>On 1/2/05 4:11 PM, "Justin F. Knotzke" <jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>    I have the following frame which I would like to print but can't:
>>>
>>>    http://www.shampoo.ca/pics/xmas-day-2004.jpg
>>>
>>>    I can scan it and with some tuning in photoshop can get what you
>>> see above. But attempting to wet print it is nearly impossible. It's
>>> simply too dark. I didn't have enough light and I didn't want to use a
>>> flash so I underexposed and hoped for the best..
>>>
>>>    Can someone send me some tips on how I can coax this image out onto
>>> paper? Every attempt I have made so far yields either too dark an image
>>> or a greyish image with no real blacks.
>>>
>>>    How should I go about trying to print this ?
>>>
>>>    Thanks
>>>
>>>    J
>>>
>>
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