[pure-silver] Re: Under exposed frame
- From: Ryuji Suzuki <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 16:34:27 -0500 (EST)
From: DarkroomMagic <info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Under exposed frame
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 21:51:53 +0100
> If you've done that, and your hardest grade was not enough to get the
> shadows dark enough, then do what Ryuji suggested, and up the exposure with
> your hardest grade until the shadows improve and bleach the (now too dark)
> highlights with farmers reducer. This technique simple gives the paper
> contrast an additional boost. Otherwise, always expose for the highlights
> and control shadows with paper contrast.
That is not what I suggested. I suggested to make one usual exposure,
to a slightly on the lighter side, with say grade 3 or 3.5. Make
necessary burning and dodging in this stage. Then give another
exposure with grade 5. The second exposure should be adjusted so that
highlight and midtone are esseintially unaffected. This has
superficially resemblance to split filter printing but it has a
fundamental difference in that the second exposure is set so that the
highlight and midtone fall left to the toe of the paper with grade 5
filter. This often helps weak shadows with underexposed negatives,
some foggy negatives, and negatives that suffered from a bit too much
camera/lens flare. Papers with rather short toe with grade 5 filter
work the best but any multicontrast paper would do.
It is important to use midtone as the exposure target in the first
exposure because this is where the second exposure may
interact. Highlights can be manaded in any conventional way because it
is practically independent of the second exposure (if done right).
--
Ryuji Suzuki
"Keep a good head and always carry a light camera."
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