[pure-silver] Re: Under exposed frame
- From: Daniel Bouzard <Daniel.BOUZARD@xxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2005 15:13:31 +0100
Hello,
I agree with Tim preflashing and split gradinf with 5 end 00 filters
will allow you to get details in shadows and hightlights. I use this quite
often for difficult prints.
Daniel
> De=A0: "Tim Rudman" <ps@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> R=E9pondre =E0=A0: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date=A0: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 13:47:07 -0000
> =C0=A0: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Objet=A0: [pure-silver] Re: Under exposed frame
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> There is no reason why you can't combine the 2 techniques Justine - split
> grading and preflashing. The flashing will allow the paper to respond mor=
e
> readily to the G.00 exposure (and also will lower the contrast).
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> It is very easy to work out how much to flash - you don't have to guess.
> I'll send you off list a step by step guide that I use in workshops. It w=
ill
> come as a Word attachment which is quite safe to open.
>=20
> Alternatively, you could make a 'Lith print' ;-)
> This will print high contrast in the shadows and low contrast in the
> highlights.
> It will be a warm colour but can be changed in selenium or gold, but not =
so
> easily to neutral B&W - but you might find you like it as much (or more)
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> Tim
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Justin F. Knotzke
> Sent: 03 January 2005 13:29
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Under exposed frame
>=20
> <quote who=3DJ.R. Stewart date=3D[02/01/05 10:54 PM]/>
>> I bet that works Rob. Preflashing has saved me a couple times. It's
>> not a common procedure. Justin will have to determine the amount of
>> flash that produces the least amount of fog using non-image forming
>> light, then half that to preflash the paper-- as a reference point, my
>> preflash exposure is about 3 seconds with my 135 mm lens stopped down
>> to f45 and about 25 inches away from the base board. A simple test strip
> should work, Justin.
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> The image is definitely underexposed. The camera metered the scene at
> F2.8 400ISO 1/5 and I shot it at F2.8 400ISO 1/30.
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> So no question, that is underexposed.
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> I am going to take one more stab at this before going the digital
> route.
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> My plan, after having read your kind posts and talking with some
> friends is to:
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> 1) Make a test strip using 5 filter to get blacks and note the time.
> 2) Expose the paper with this time and then make a second exposure/test
> strip to get highlights.
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> I will stop the lens down as much as possible and then go from there.
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> If that fails, I am going to try to pre-flash (which I have never
> done). If that fails, I'll go digital *sigh*.
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> Thanks again,
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> J
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> --
> Justin F. Knotzke
> jknotzke@xxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.shampoo.ca
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D
> =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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