[pure-silver] Re: stopbath kills fixer
- From: Lloyd Erlick <lloyd@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 25 Jan 2005 16:32:08 -0500
At 03:00 PM 1/25/2005 , >Jerry wrote:
>Citric Acid Fixer
>
>Water (50=B0C) ........................... 600 ml
>Sodium thiosulfate (pent) .............. 240 g=20
>Sodium sulfite (anhy) .................. 15.0 g=20
>Citric acid ............................ 5.0 g=20
>Potassium alum ......................... 15.0 g=20
>Water to make .......................... 1.0 l=20
>
>Preparation
>
>Dissolve the thiosulfate in the indicated amount of water. In 80 ml of =
>water,
>dissolve the remaining ingredients and add to the thiosulfate solution =
>with
>rapid stirring. Make up to the solution to 1 liter.
>
>Use full strength. Fix for 5 to 10 minutes.
>
>You can leave out the alum if you don't desire hardening.
>
>Jerry
...
jan2505 from Lloyd Erlick,
And if the hardener is omitted, the acid is unnecessary.
The formula minus the hardener and acid is pretty much exactly Adams'
formula for plain fixer.
I've never used hardener. What photosensitive materials do we work with
that are so soft? Most current production materials are very robust, in my
experience. Certainly current films (well, I use Kodak T-Max film a lot, am
I prejudiced??) are very tough. I've attempted to reticulate T-Max 400 a
few times (unintentionally high fixer temperature...) to no avail. They're
made for high temperature automated processing, so no surprise.
I guess hardener might be helpful if one squeegees wet prints...
regards,
--le
________________________________
Lloyd Erlick Portraits, Toronto.
voice: 416-686-0326
email: portrait@xxxxxxxxxxxx
net: www.heylloyd.com
________________________________
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