----- Original Message ----- From: "J.R. Stewart" <jrstewart@xxxxxxxxxxxx> To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2005 4:39 PM Subject: [pure-silver] New color head "discoveries" > Well, my Omega Chromega Dichro DII came in last weekend > and I've begun > testing. with VC papers. First VC I've printed in 20 > years. > > I've been using metol glycine based Ansco130 paper > developer (modified by AA > and without hydroquinone).That's where I started. Problem > is, the hardest > contrast I was able to get with 0Y/170M was about 0.8 on > Forte Polygrade V > (boy is that paper really blue!!) and about 0.6 on Kodak > Polymax Fine Art. > The softest contrast comes in about right at 1.8 (polymax) > and 1.4 > (polygrade). > > Glycine is a much softer developer.. is that why I'm able > to get no more > than ISO ~3.5 on the VC papers... do the emulsions require > stronger > developers for satisfactory development? I tested my > graded papers under > white light exposure, developed them in A130, and acquired > the right scale. > I developed all the test prints at 6x factorial so I would > think that would > be sufficient, and I was able to get max black. > > I ran an Ansco 120 test last night. The test prints look > better, but haven't > read them yet. > > Also, I learned that both of these paper are very > sensitive to the Thomas > safelite... I ran a screening test and at 5 minutes > exposure I got fog that > appeared as Zone VI reflectance.. So, I move the > safelight, unplug it, or > change papers to one less sensitive, and retest. Such is > life. > > J.R. Stewart > Leesburg, VA > May I suggest you use a standard paper developer. Ansco/Agfa 130 was good stuff but I don't think it really offers any advantage over other developers. The AA modification isn't even 130 any more. The elimination of Hydroquinone will substantially reduce the activity of the developer. AA did not like the "green" color produced by Dektol/D-72 type developer. 130 tends toward a more neutral image due to the Glycin but a small amount of Benzotriazole will accomplish the same thing with Dektol. Ilford Bromophen is similar to Dektol but uses Phenidone instead of Metol. It also contains some Benzotriazole and tends toward more neutral image color. Recently I've been using Agfa Neutol Plus, a liquid concentrate containing Phenidone and Ascorbic Acid. It seems to be a very satisfactory developer. The 1+9 "economy" concentration works fine with about the same development times I get with Dektol. Most modern RC papers contain developer so that they can be used with rapid access "activation" processors. The presence of the incorporated developer results in the image coming up faster than otherwise and in less differences between developers. I don't know what is in the Kodak developer layer but typically both Phenidone and Hydroquinone are used. Fiber base paper does not have incorporated developer nor does most Ilford paper. The filters of a color head will not give you the full range of contrast available from VC paper with the use of dedicated filters. They should give you a couple contrast grades on either side of "normal" but filters should be used to obtain the maximum and minimum contrast values. Dump your Thomas safelight, they are simply not safe with VC paper. Install old fashioned Kodak OC filters (or red filters if you can stand working in red light) with low power lamps as recommended by Kodak. Even with these exposure to the safelight should be limited. Get Kodak publication K-4 "How To Test Your Safelight" for a method that takes into account the pre-exposure effects of safelight exposure. Remember "there is no such thing as a safelight" there are only lights which have relatively little fogging effect. Even a slight fog will have a subtle "veiling" effect on the prints, graying them down just a little. --- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.