Hello all, Tim, I'm very impressed by your darkroom. Kudos! Nice lay-out. Everything in its place and a place for everything.I'm in the process of starting an expansion of my darkroom, a 16 foot long sink made out of marine plywood along the wet side; cabinets and two enlargers on the other.. My sister gave me her old cabinets when they redid their kitchen. very useful for storage, as I can see. My Omega D2v is bolted to the concrete wall so no vibrations from the inside. Just need to figure out how to attach the top. I'm looking at the way you bolted the top of the enlarger frame to the back wall. hmmmm!
Looks like a comfortable place to work in. Cheers, Bogdan On 21/12/2011 6:33 PM, Tim Daneliuk wrote:
On 12/21/2011 04:58 PM, shannon Stoney wrote:My partner, who is an architect, says that he thinks the basement could be made moisture-tight, to prevent too much humidity. But it seems as if it would be difficult to ventilate properly. I have a hood and an exhaust fan that I'm going to move to the new darkroom. But I can't quite visualize how I would get the fumes away from the house and any windows. It seems as if you'd have to have a really tall chimney of some sort. It seems as if it would have to go up the side of the house, which is pretty tall.Let me put in a vote for the basement here. A basement - properly finished - is dry, cool, and has low dust. Concrete is supposed to be damp ... on the outside where it touches the earth. The inside, once dried out will be dusty, so: - Assuming the basement does not actually leak (a different problem requiring remediation), you can reduce both dust and dampness by hanging a sheet of plastic vapor barrier along each wall (whether youplan to use that portion of the wall or not *and tack it to the concretewith construction glue dotted every foot or two. The top of the barrier can initially be tacked to the floor joists above the basement along the concrete wall line to hold them in place. - Wash the floor with a concrete cleaner until it is as clean as you can get it (you're likely going to throw out a mop head or two doing this. Then put several coats of acrylic floor finisher down on that clean floor. This massively reduces dust from the floor. - If you live in a generally humid area, you can have an HVAC person come in, add some A/C sends/returns to the basement so that it pullswater out of the air. (In a basement, the sends go high and the returnsgo low which is he inverse of what you do above ground.)- You can also run a dehumidifier in the basement and drain the water intothe floor drain.- I did all the above. Then I actually finished the basement and darkroom both for aesthetics/resale value as well as further thermal and dust control. Behind the outside walls in the pictures below is a double layer of styrofoaminsulation made specifically for basement/damp applications.You NEVER use fiberglass in a basement because -if it does get wet - it will mildew and smell. In any case, you do not need tons of insulation in a basement because the *outside earth* insulates it very well. I live near Chicago and my basement sits at about 68F Winter or Summer because of this natural insulation property. If you use drywall as I did, be sure to use several coats of primer and then a semi-gloss paint to finish it - the stuff very dusty ifit remains unfinished.- A tile or linoleum floor will further suppress dust and make cleanups a snap.- I also had a second dryer vent installed on the building and ran ducting from a lightproof fan (you can see it above the left end of the sink) to that vent. This pulls air across the darkroom and outside. I made sure that my furnace next door had it own open vent to draw air from the open areaaway from the darkroom so that the fan in the darkroom would not draw fumes down the furnace flue. That is, I made sure the fan had a path from which to draw air and so did the furnace. A Carbon Monoxide detector is a good idea to make sure you don't have a problem. - I cannot stress these safety items enough:. Whether you do it or hire an electrician, *use GFI outlets in a darkroom*(so water splashes will kill the power not electrocute you).. Install outlets high on the wall, not low like on a main floor. Thatway a basement flood is unlikely to touch them. I believe code requires this anyway. . It is a REALLY good idea to have a plumber install one way valves on the hot/cold water supply lines you'll use in the darkroom. This prevents things like, say, having your dirty chemical water siphoned back into the water mains if someone flushes a toilet while you have a water hose laying in a tray. I did all this as part of a larger basement finishing job - I love how it turned out: http://www.tundraware.com/Photography/Darkroom/ 'Hope that gives you some ideas.P.S. This may seem like a ton of work, but it's probably no more work thanbuilding an out building and it will be WAY more comfortable, dark, and dry with far less effort IMHO.============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
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