Adrienne - There are some water-based epoxy paints on the market desigined for =20 basement walls and floors. I've used one from Sears, and one industrial =20= one that my late father-in-law dropped off one afternoon with the =20 warning that "you've got 40 minutes to use it - and don't have your =20 brush in it then". He was (almost) right - it became to hard to brush =20= at about 45 minutes. (That's the disadvantage - once you add the =20 hardner, it's use it or lose it.) Both paints held up well (Sears on =20 the floor) for the 6-7 years between painting and moving, and it was a =20= workshop floor (didn't have a darkroom there) that I painted. Biggest =20= plus? Virtually no odor! -Bill On Friday, January 7, 2005, at 04:44 PM, Adrienne Moumin wrote: > I know you're right, Richard, but I have a few bare cement floor areas = =20 > which > are dust factories. I thought about the fact that lots of folks who =20= > build > their own sinks use marine coatings, etc. The last darkroom I rented, = =20 > an > excellent one, had such a sink. Ya gotta do what ya gotta do, and I =20= > just > have to seal up that cement! > > Georges, I agree w/you about staying from that insulation sheet. One = =20 > of > the many renovations this house needed was mold remediation, and it =20= > isn't > fun or cheap! Trapping moisture against a wall would be a bad idea =20= > indeed! > > -Adrienne > > *************************************** > Please, please shake some booty on the dance floor. You look great in =20= > those > pants and we totally spy you tapping your foot up against the wall, =20= > flower. > If the beat moves you, then rock it. > > from "nonsense nyc," 12/31/04...and their list of rules for New Year's = =20 > Eve > (and for life). > > > -----SNIP------------------- >> >> There are special sealers for both concrete blocks and >> concrete flooring. They are effective and long lived. The >> problem is that they smell awful and the smell takes a long >> time to dissipate. >> This stuff is not paint but rather a plastic of some >> sort. >> >> --- >> Richard Knoppow >> Los Angeles, CA, USA >> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx >> >> >> ------------------------------ > >> Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2005 07:31:35 +0100 >> From: Georges Giralt <georges.giralt@xxxxxxx> >> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: pure-silver Digest V2 #6 >> >> Hi Adrienne ! >> Encapsulate is planned. >> I will use a special cement used for the inside of pools which is >> plastic white, totally waterproof and resistant to wear, chemicals, =20= >> and >> so. It will prevent salpeter (sp?) formation on the walls also. (a = bit >> expensive, but I've a little surface to do, and as I've used it =20 >> before, >> like the product, and know it well. BTW it is made by Sika) >> As far as heating goes, I've the option to hook to the central = heating >> system (hot water based with some pipes in the basement) or using an >> electric heater for the periods I'll print in it. >> My main concern is humidity/fungus. Toulouse is a somewhat wet city = in >> winter (hot and dry in summer) and my ecologist way of thinking =20 >> refrains >> me to use a dehumidifier in for 24h a day. (electricity is not = cheap) >> So at first, I'll keep the lenses out of my basement. >> I've collected all the books about darkroom construction, and had a =20= >> look >> at Ctein's one in "Post Exposure". >> I wonder is I use the plastic isolation sheet someone mentioned, as = I >> fear it force humidity in (preventing it's escape)... This is the big >> issue, because once the plastic sheet will be in (or not) and walls >> constructed I'll have no way to remove/put it... >> Enjoy your darkroom ! >> And have a nice day ! >> Adrienne Moumin a =E9crit : >>> Congrats on your new darkroom, Mark! >>> >>> Georges, the main piece of advice I can give you about those cement >> walls >>> is....ENCAPSULATE. I have a few things, cinder block walls & some >> exposed >>> cement floor among them, which are very dust producing. Every = single >> such >>> surface must, it seems to me, be thoroughly coated with primer = and/or >> paint, >>> or some other type of coating. They make specific types for =20 >>> basements, >>> floors, etc. >>> >>> It's a drag to have to do this, & I am coming off a mostly nonstop = 14 >> months >>> of house renovations, some of which I have done myself....but I am >>> determined to not skimp because I don't feel like doing it, and = being >> sorry >>> later. >>> >>> Not sure what your heating/cooling system is, but we had new = ductwork >> added >>> onto our system to ventilate the darkroom, it's near the floor of = the >> room >>> entrance. An updraft exhaust fan from a defunct kitchen stove is >> mounted >>> above the sink, & works great. >>> >>> I actually used that book to help me design my darkroom, Claudio. >>> >>> Well, back to it. > > > = =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=20 > =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D > To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to =20= > your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you = =20 > subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. > ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.