I got the basisc of the EM10, but I remembered he mentioned how to determine the contrast grade of the VC paper to be used, and that is what I was more interested in. Midtones are important indeed... How do you calibrate your EM10 for number/time for mid-grays? I do that using a grayscale (at least the center of it) in a MF negative carrier and a kodak wedge to determine exposure for each paper. In that way I have a number/time/result table Found a good thread at APUG about this. --- Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "titrisol" <titrisol@xxxxxxxxx> > To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2005 6:59 AM > Subject: [pure-silver] Ralph Lambrecht / EM10 enlarging > meter? > > > > Hi > > I remmeber seeing an article from Ralph Lambrecht a while > > ago > > about using the Ilford EM10 for determining the exposure > > time > > and contrast required for a print. > > Anybody knows where to find a copy of it? > > At least a copy of the curve? > > > > Thanks > > > > > I don't have Ralph's paper but he is a member of this > list. I use an EM-10. Its possible to calibrate the dial in > stops so that it can be used as a crude densitometer. It > isn't really sensitive enough to measure denser areas of the > negative and is very slow for them. However, it can give a > guide to the required paper contrast with some patience. One > must learn to choose the right parts of the negative to > measure the ratio of densities that are to be printed. > Negative materials can record a much longer range of > densities than printing paper can reproduce, at least, at a > visually acceptable contrast. > I calibrated my EM-10 by using the iris of an enlarging > lens and checking against another. Make sure you stop down > about two stops before using this method to eliminate the > non linearity that can come from vignetting. A better way > would be to use neutral density filters of known value. > Jones, Nelson, and others at Kodak Labs discovered long > ago that mid range tones are the most important to the eye. > If the mid tones are good the eye will accept shadows and > highlights which are lacking somewhat in detail. Generally, > these will be within the range of the EM-10. The measurement > is made by placing the sensor in the area of interest and > turning the dial until the green green light goes on. > > --- > Richard Knoppow > Los Angeles, CA, USA > dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > ============================================================================================================= > To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and > logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password > you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.