[pure-silver] Re: Ralph Lambrecht / EM10 enlarging meter?
- From: DarkroomMagic <info@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: PureSilverNew <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2005 23:27:01 +0100
Well, there is a big difference in cost between the Ilford EM-10 and the
Sekonic L-408. Fine if you have a Sekonic or similar anyway, but
otherwise...
As Richard said, at $30, the EM-10 is great value for money, and calibrated,
can be a big help.
BTW, turn off the safelights, while using it. This is also true for the
RH-Designs ZoneMaster.
Regards
Ralph W. Lambrecht
On 1/6/05 9:37 PM, "Ryuji Suzuki" <rs@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> From: titrisol <titrisol@xxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Ralph Lambrecht / EM10 enlarging meter?
> Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2005 11:56:36 -0800 (PST)
>
>> - Use a grayscale in the negative holder (6x6) then measure the Em10
>> setting for 2 or 3 stops. Then print a test with the Kodak Wedge
>> and determine exposure for zone 1, 5 and 8 After that since I had
>> made a table of +- stops I can determine the times required to
>> generate any gray tone for the paper.
>
> I've tried to calibrate EM-10 but it's not that useful...
>
> EM-10 uses CdS as the photosensor, and this cell is sensitive to wide
> range of spectrum including safelight. Unless you put a blue-green
> filter on the hole, you'll have to shut the safelight when using
> EM-10. But then how are you going to deal with contrast filters?
> (Fine, my most precious paper is graded.)
>
> With that limitation in mind, calibration can be easily done with an
> ordinary incident light meter. With Sekonic L-408 meter set at 100
> speed, 2.5 * 2^EV is pretty close to lux. (Note: different light
> meters are calibrated differently. I've compared my meter with my
> friend's Minolta meter, but it was significantly different. Light
> meters are not designed for this purpose anyway, I'm merely suggesting
> they can be used this way if you know the meter's calibration.) You
> can set an empty neg carrier and change the aperture and/or head
> height to create a range of illuminances at which you make a
> calibration table for EM-10. Then fit a suitable curve and
> interpolate.
>
> But when I'm *mass* printing something, I usually fix exposure time
> and change aperture to adjust the illuminance. (Don't use clicks on
> the lens) If the negative is exposed rather uniformly, this generally
> works very well and EM-10 doesn't need to be calibrated.
>
> --
> Ryuji Suzuki
> "Keep a good head and always carry a light camera."
> ==============================================================================
> ===============================
> To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
> account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,)
> and unsubscribe from there.
=============================================================================================================
To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,)
and unsubscribe from there.
Other related posts:
