Just don't use an empty beer bottle to pump fuel into .... bad things. On Wed, Oct 26, 2011 at 2:49 PM, James Dwan <james_dwan_2000@xxxxxxxxx>wrote: > Oh I member. So if it pumps gas at all it works but how can you tell if it > works well enough? > > ------------------------------ > *From:* chuck <sukchew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > *To:* tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > *Sent:* Wednesday, October 26, 2011 12:57 PM > > *Subject:* [tcb] Re: I'm stumped - '59 won't start, stay running... > > The fuel pump can be tested while cranking.(not starting).Attach a hose > to the fuel pump outlet to a bottle.Crank the engine over a few times then > check the bottle for fuel.Make sure the coil wire is disconnected at the > coil.It has already been determined that you have spark,member the skin > test? > oleblue > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* James Dwan <james_dwan_2000@xxxxxxxxx> > *To:* tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > *Sent:* Wednesday, October 26, 2011 9:08 AM > *Subject:* [tcb] Re: I'm stumped - '59 won't start, stay running... > > It's possible but the carb has only 400 miles on it. I am thinking fuel > pump but I suppose it's possible. Problem is I can't get it started to > really check the fuel pump > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Gary Alexander <garypalexander@xxxxxxxxx> > *To:* tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > *Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2011 9:09 PM > *Subject:* [tcb] Re: I'm stumped - '59 won't start, stay running... > > Sounds like a possible stuck needle valve not allowing the fuel bowl to > fill up as you drive, since it conks out after 5 minutes or so. then > refires. > Is it a 30/31PICT Carb? There pretty straightforward to mess with. > I'm thinking that or fuel pressure issues. > I will say the BEST diagnostic tool to have is a fuel pressure tester to > check the fuel pump pressure bteween pump and carb inlet. Just about any > fuel pump you get 'new' today is pushing way past 3lbs... > Needs to be between 2 to 3lbs,no more or you'll blow fuel past the needle > valve and truly have hard start issues with fuel being forced all over the > place. > Any FLAP can order one, just run a tee in it and plug it in between pump > and carb. > > I'm gonna bet fuel pressure might be your issue, but get a carb rebuild > kit, cheap and easy to do as well. > Sounds like your ignition systemhas all been worked over well. > Now one thing I have seen before, its crazy, but a coil can get super hot > and cause issues to after a brief period of running. Have you swapped out > coils? Just another idea...Make sure you get the coil with the internal > resistor as well. > > best of luck. > > > > On Tue, Oct 25, 2011 at 11:02 AM, chuck <sukchew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > ** > do you know that you have spark at the end of the plug wire? if there is > nothing there we should start on the electrical.From what you discribed it > sounds like the electrics are okay.It's not likely that you have electrical > problem because it will run for awhile before stalling.The hard restarts > could easyly be a fuel problem. > oleblue > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* James Dwan <james_dwan_2000@xxxxxxxxx> > *To:* tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > *Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2011 10:38 AM > *Subject:* [tcb] Re: I'm stumped - '59 won't start, stay running... > > Thanks Chuck, I did remove the fuel pump to measure the piston and did > not notice anything odd but then again I didn't know what I was looking at - > I have been the happy care free owner of a late model FI set up for 18 years > and am like a caveman lawyer when it comes to early carb'd single ports... > > ------------------------------ > *From:* chuck <sukchew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > *To:* tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > *Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2011 10:11 AM > *Subject:* [tcb] Re: I'm stumped - '59 won't start, stay running... > > Okay. Be sure and check the fuel pump flange.(The little bakelite thingy > under the pump)The push rod should move freely.Some of the bakelite flanges > would react with the oil sweel up and sieze the fuel pump push rod.That > probably is okay but it still needs to be checked.Also check the pin in the > fuel pump. They have been known to work out. > I'm at home so if you want to talk give me a call at 903 677 3256.This > shouldn't be to tough unless it's happening to you. > > oleblue > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* James Dwan <james_dwan_2000@xxxxxxxxx> > *To:* tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > *Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2011 10:01 AM > *Subject:* [tcb] Re: I'm stumped - '59 won't start, stay running... > > It is a known good engine rebuilt less than 300 miles ago. 1600cc single > port > > ------------------------------ > *From:* chuck <sukchew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > *To:* tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > *Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2011 9:58 AM > *Subject:* [tcb] Re: I'm stumped - '59 won't start, stay running... > > The fuel tap should have a screen attached to it.It is a screen tube that > fits on the tap.A quick check would be to see what kind of fuel flow you > have from the tank.If you have good flow to the pump check the flow to the > carb. > Is this a known good engine or are you working on someone elses trouble > and does it have the 36hp. > oleblue > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* James Dwan <james_dwan_2000@xxxxxxxxx> > *To:* tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > *Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2011 9:50 AM > *Subject:* [tcb] Re: I'm stumped - '59 won't start, stay running... > > So if I remove the fuel tap I should be able to remove the screen from > there? I have this afternoon off so I plan on switching out dizzys but it > seems like an electrical issue that is preventing it from turning over. If I > turn the key it goes "wrrrvump" for 1 second then stops. Like it's not > getting enough juice. i.e. open circuit, too much resistance. I'll have to > wait for a helper to check fuel pressure. > > ------------------------------ > *From:* Eric Woodall <ericthomaswoodall@xxxxxxx> > *To:* "tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx" <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > *Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2011 9:40 AM > *Subject:* [tcb] Re: I'm stumped - '59 won't start, stay running... > > Definitely check the sock screen in the tank. > > On Oct 25, 2011, at 9:38 AM, "chuck" <sukchew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > Check your fuel dilivery and pressure.Could also be a sticking float or > trash in a jet.Tank screen? > oleblue > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* James Dwan <james_dwan_2000@xxxxxxxxx> > *To:* <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > *Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2011 8:38 AM > *Subject:* [tcb] I'm stumped - '59 won't start, stay running... > > I have had an intermittent starting issue since I can remember (1 year at > least?) so anyway, after waiting 10 seconds after the 1st attempt it would > start up. > Saturday I picked him up from the body shop and it took 5 hours to get it > 10 miles into my garage. > > The engine died 5 miles from my house and I pushed it into a parking lot > where Robb noticed the center post on the dizzy cap was broken, walked to > FLAPS, replaced drove to the gas staion 1 mile from my house and left it > idling as I was pumping gas into the gas can it died, i spent the next hour > tring to get it started, replaced the points, condenser and it took 10 tries > after that (with jumper cables) to get it started. I got all the way to the > driveway and while the door was opening it died again. 2 hours later it > barely started and I got it into the garage 5 hours before the hail storm : > 0 > > I never replaced the rotor so I did that last night, started up and idled > for 5 minutes then died. I started it back up and it idled for 25 minutes > and I thought it was fixed.This morning I realized it is not fixed. > > I have spark, I checked the battery and it was charging (2 weeks ago) it > has an 8 v battery but the regulator has been adjusted for that and it is a > brand new wiring harness and I have cleaned the grounds for the battery and > tranny ground and I am stumped. > > the November show is a week and a half away and this is the only thing left > to do on him. This weekend, I finally got the @#*% fixed that was done in > Ennis and received the last door panel from Lenny 11 months after requesting > a replacement... > > James > > > > > > > > > > > > >