[modeleng] Re: boiler making

  • From: "Terry Lane" <tel@xxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Sat, 7 Jan 2006 19:45:02 +1100

Dunno about where you are Dave, but here in Oz silver solder is the only
acceptable way to go.


> many thanks Harry your a wealth of info in pictures , it's much
appreciated
>
> as an aside , I came across this copper brazing alloy , has anyone
> experience of it I wonder , although I will take your advice and use
silver
> soldering
>
>
> Copper brazing alloy SF-1 UK. No flux needed on copper for air con pipe
work
> ,Heating Systems  repair.water pipes and refrigeration also electrical
> connections Heat Exchangers Very handy brazing alloy to have in van or
work
> shop. 10 sticks x 2.5 x 1 x 450mm made by Thermodyne USA Mil spec
> MIL-C-20158.   A1T Grade111 Melting range 1471+- 6 F Brazing Range
1350-1500
> F                              Use in place of Silver Solder on Copper
> pipework etc
>
>  regards
> Dave
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Harry Wade" <hww@xxxxxxxx>
> To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 10:39 PM
> Subject: [modeleng] Re: boiler making
>
>
> > At 09:25 PM 1/6/06 -0000, you wrote:
> >>ok where do I start , building a boiler for the first time
> >
> > Dave,
> >   The pictures are at
> >
<http://bbs.livesteam.net/ubbs/forumdisplay.cgi?action=topics&forum=Any+Time
> > ,+Any+Place,+Any+Gauge&number=1&DaysPrune=45&LastLogin=>  Look for
threads
> > "New Boiler Start", and "New Boiler - Cont'd."
> >
> >>is silver soldering the best
> >
> >    Yes, preferrably with an approximately 45% silver content alloy.
> > Brazing is now not an approved process because a brass should not be any
> > permanent part of the boiler structure.
> >
> >>as I have access to propane / oxy and oxy / acetal gear although I will
> >>admit to being a full blown novice with welding gear , but willing to
> >>learn
> >
> >     You will benefit having.  Propane is preferred, as long as you have
> > sufficiently large burners (tips).  An oxy/acetyl "rosebud" tip will
also
> > do the job.
> >
> >>as I will need to make the flange plates too is their any good
techniques
> >>so any major trauma's to avoid with the plague etc , or am I just
creating
> >>long term problems for myself  , so that's it  , advice is sought from
the
> >>knowledgeable list ..
> >
> >    As with any task, practice makes for a better job, however with
careful
> > reading and experiecned guidance a great many first-timers have done
quite
> > well.
> >    FYI, once upon a time (in the 1990's), I discovered that I could buy
> > ready-formed heads from Reeves, for instance, for popular British
designs
> > (Simplex being one) cheaper than I could buy the raw copper material
over
> > here, AND save the time needed to make the formers.   I suspect prices
are
> > now quite a bit higher but you should still have no difficulty finding a
> > supplier of formed heads should you decide to forego the forming
process.
> > However heads are only one of several components which will need forms
of
> > one kind or another.
> >
> >
> > Regards,
> > Harry Wade
> > Nashville  Tennessee
> >
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