[modeleng] Re: Someone has to do it . . . . .
- From: "tim martin" <timsymartin@xxxxxxx>
- To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 29 Mar 2005 10:41:41 -0800
This style of return crank design was used in the construction of 5" 9F
serialised in engineering in miniture. Tim 2
>From: Harry Wade <hww@xxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [modeleng] Re: Someone has to do it . . . . . Date: Sat, 26 Mar
>2005 08:35:25 -0600
>
>At 07:56 AM 3/26/05 -0000, you wrote:
> >Do you have details of the Model Engineer article, I'd like to see a
>copy.
> >Regards, IP
>
>IP,
> No, and I have no idea when or where it was now, but I can narrow the
>search somewhat. It was in an issue between 1964 and 1994. :-) I recall
>that it was a "hints & tips" entry rather than part of a loco construction
>article, and that it was by an unknown (at least to me) contributor.
> But even so it's rather intuitive, and could be worked out for any
>given whee/crankpin combination. My crankpins will have a journal diameter
>of .500" which will result in a minor diameter on-taper of around .425",
>easily enough for a stout drawbolt, but also for threading and nutting the
>stub end if I choose, which was the way it was shown the original article.
> I chose 6 degrees because it approximates the Morse tapers which were
>originally designed to balance maximized resistance to torque when engaged
>against ease of release.
> I will bore my crankpin holes, as opposed to drilling and reaming,
>(and turn the crankpin tapers at the same setting) in order to get them
>dead square to the wheel and on-center. The trickiest part of the job will
>be to insure that the crankpins reside at the right depth, leaving the
>correct amount of crankpin "showing." Still, even if it's missed by a
>hair, there are a couple of ways to adjust or correct this after the fact.
> Eventually I will post photos of the results on my webhosting site.
>
>Regards,
>Harry
>
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