[modeleng] Re: Someone has to do it . . . . .
- From: Allen Messer <al_messer@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2005 17:54:44 -0800 (PST)
Sounds reasonable.
Al Messer
--- Harry Wade <hww@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
> OK I'll break the silence. I am in the
> midst of turning the
> drivers for a redesigned 7.5"ga TICH. The drivers
> are 5"OD rather than the
> 4-1/8" called for in the orginal design (one aspect
> of the redesign) the
> ones I'm using are old-stock BRIDGET drivers from
> Reeves. Aside from
> several chilled areas in the skin which have been
> deeper than expected, the
> iron is very good and I've encountered no flaws. I
> rough turn using cheap
> brazed carbide bits but always finish with a
> razor-sharp HHS spoon bit.
> Two comments about the patternmaking, . . .
> first there was not
> enough material left protruding at the face of the
> rim to produce a
> distinct line between the the tire and the spoked
> center so I'll have to
> turn a step or something there and then do a littel
> filing to fair this
> out. Secondly, when laying out the spokes whoever
> made the pattern drew
> their spoke guidlines radially from the center point
> of the wheel producing
> spokes that taper slightly TOWARD the hub rather
> than tapering away from
> the hub. Not good, but not bad looking enough to
> discard the wheels.
> To date the wheels have been rough-turned,
> finished back, and
> bored for axles. Next they'll be bolted to the
> faceplate and finished
> front. After broaching for keys the wheels will be
> returned to the
> faceplate and offset by indicating an offset jig and
> the crankpin holes bored.
> My return cranks (for Walschearts) be
> broached square and the main
> crankpins will be milled with square ends. In order
> to eliminate the
> problem of pressing these home at precisely the
> correct angle and identical
> side to side, I am going to try an idea I saw in ME
> many years ago. The
> main crankpin ends and their bores will be turned
> with a 6 degr taper
> (approximately a Morse #2) and then have an
> inside-end drawbolt fitted.
> The return cranks can then be installed and
> adjustments in crank angle can
> be made by rotating the entire crankpin and when
> exact crank angle has been
> determined lock it with the drawbolt.
>
>
> Regards,
> Harry Wade
> Nashville Tennessee
>
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