At 07:56 AM 3/26/05 -0000, you wrote: >Do you have details of the Model Engineer article, I'd like to see a copy. >Regards, IP IP, No, and I have no idea when or where it was now, but I can narrow the search somewhat. It was in an issue between 1964 and 1994. :-) I recall that it was a "hints & tips" entry rather than part of a loco construction article, and that it was by an unknown (at least to me) contributor. But even so it's rather intuitive, and could be worked out for any given whee/crankpin combination. My crankpins will have a journal diameter of .500" which will result in a minor diameter on-taper of around .425", easily enough for a stout drawbolt, but also for threading and nutting the stub end if I choose, which was the way it was shown the original article. I chose 6 degrees because it approximates the Morse tapers which were originally designed to balance maximized resistance to torque when engaged against ease of release. I will bore my crankpin holes, as opposed to drilling and reaming, (and turn the crankpin tapers at the same setting) in order to get them dead square to the wheel and on-center. The trickiest part of the job will be to insure that the crankpins reside at the right depth, leaving the correct amount of crankpin "showing." Still, even if it's missed by a hair, there are a couple of ways to adjust or correct this after the fact. Eventually I will post photos of the results on my webhosting site. Regards, Harry MODEL ENGINEERING DISCUSSION LIST. To UNSUBSCRIBE from this list, send a blank email to, modeleng-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with the word "unsubscribe" in the subject line.