Thanks, Richard, for answering my question before I asked it!
But I didn't
receive your message until now. So, you say that HCA is
recommended after
Viradon and KBT. Does that affect the long term permanence of
the print or
is it just for avoiding stains?
Per
On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 23:40:27 +0100, Richard Knoppow
<dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeffrey Thorns"
> <puresilver@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, October 31, 2005 12:40 PM
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Toning Question
>
>
>> So, how much do most people dilute KBT? I didn't see the
dilution
>> listed on the bottle.
>>
>>
> Normally 1:30. The toner works very slowly at room
temperature so
> its usually heated to 100F in a water bath.
> While I have toned many prints in KBT without a post
toning sulfite
> bath with no difficulty from staining it is still
recommended. Agfa
> recommends a 10% sulfite bath. I've used stock Kodak Hypo
Claring Agent
> successfully but have not tested if it works as well
diluted.
> Both New Viradon and KBT are polysulfide toners. These
have the
> peculiar propertly of toning faster as they are diluted or
exhausted.
> That's why they tend to continue toning in the wash unless
the wash is
> very fast. The sulfite bath stops this after toning.
> Polysulfide (liver of sulfur) toner is one of the few
that tones all
> densities evenly so it can be used for partial toning
without split
> tones and with uniform image protection.
> As a general rule single bath toners are cooler (bluer)
than bleach
> and redevelop types. The color of the toned image will
depend on the
> nature of the original image but, again a rule of thumb
only, the warmer
> the original image the more yellow it will be after toning.
> Bleach and redevelop toners are recommended for cold and
neutral tone
> papers which may not show much color change with single bath
toners.
> However, one must tone completely in them. It _is_ possible
to
> delibrately split tone by not bleaching completely. The
remaining silver
> can be toned with a different toner if desired.
> The best source of practical toning information is _The
> Photographer's Master Printing Course_ by Tim Rudman. This
has a wealth
> of data in it.
> The curious thing is that my preference for Justin's
photo would be
> blue toning, probably a Gold toner, which is both archival
and more
> subtle than Iron-Blue.
> ---
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
