[pure-silver] Re: Toning Question

  • From: "Dave Valvo" <dvalvo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 16:36:53 -0500

Using the two step Sepia toner the first step bleaches the metallic silver to a very insensitive (slow) silver bromide. (I've run some tests in direct sunlight and it is possible to expose and photodevelop some grains but not a lot.) The second step brings the image back as silver sulfide. (pheww) Since this is a rate reaction and time plays a factor it is possible that some ionic silver will not be converted. Protect your prints from photodeveloping by fixing them with fix afterwards. Then since the emulsion has gone though some softening I think you will find a hardener useful.

Dave


----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 4:12 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Toning Question




----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Valvo" <dvalvo@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, November 01, 2005 5:24 PM
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Toning Question



Justa reminder.....if you do any toning that involves bleaching and toning like the normal sepia methods it is recommended that you fix and harden the prints afterwards.

Dave


This should not be necessary for indirect toning since sulfide bath should convert all the rehalogenated silver to silver sulfide. I think the some old instructions suggested this for hardening rather than fixing. Some indirect toners can produce some silver halide which should be removed by subsequent fixing. Nelson's Gold Toner is an example.
Note that when a sulfide "second developer" is used for reversal that no final fixing step is required.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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