[pure-silver] Re: Toning Question
- From: titrisol <titrisol@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 11:32:08 -0800 (PST)
it si just for stopping the toning, permanence is not altered
but stains and off-colored whites are avoided
--- Per Ohstrom <ohstrom@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Thanks, Richard, for answering my question before I asked it!
> But I didn't
> receive your message until now. So, you say that HCA is
> recommended after
> Viradon and KBT. Does that affect the long term permanence of
> the print or
> is it just for avoiding stains?
>
> Per
>
>
> On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 23:40:27 +0100, Richard Knoppow
> <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeffrey Thorns"
> > <puresilver@xxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Monday, October 31, 2005 12:40 PM
> > Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Toning Question
> >
> >
> >> So, how much do most people dilute KBT? I didn't see the
> dilution
> >> listed on the bottle.
> >>
> >>
> > Normally 1:30. The toner works very slowly at room
> temperature so
> > its usually heated to 100F in a water bath.
> > While I have toned many prints in KBT without a post
> toning sulfite
> > bath with no difficulty from staining it is still
> recommended. Agfa
> > recommends a 10% sulfite bath. I've used stock Kodak Hypo
> Claring Agent
> > successfully but have not tested if it works as well
> diluted.
> > Both New Viradon and KBT are polysulfide toners. These
> have the
> > peculiar propertly of toning faster as they are diluted or
> exhausted.
> > That's why they tend to continue toning in the wash unless
> the wash is
> > very fast. The sulfite bath stops this after toning.
> > Polysulfide (liver of sulfur) toner is one of the few
> that tones all
> > densities evenly so it can be used for partial toning
> without split
> > tones and with uniform image protection.
> > As a general rule single bath toners are cooler (bluer)
> than bleach
> > and redevelop types. The color of the toned image will
> depend on the
> > nature of the original image but, again a rule of thumb
> only, the warmer
> > the original image the more yellow it will be after toning.
> > Bleach and redevelop toners are recommended for cold and
> neutral tone
> > papers which may not show much color change with single bath
> toners.
> > However, one must tone completely in them. It _is_ possible
> to
> > delibrately split tone by not bleaching completely. The
> remaining silver
> > can be toned with a different toner if desired.
> > The best source of practical toning information is _The
> > Photographer's Master Printing Course_ by Tim Rudman. This
> has a wealth
> > of data in it.
> > The curious thing is that my preference for Justin's
> photo would be
> > blue toning, probably a Gold toner, which is both archival
> and more
> > subtle than Iron-Blue.
> > ---
> > Richard Knoppow
> > Los Angeles, CA, USA
> > dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
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