[pure-silver] Re: Toning Question

  • From: "Eric Neilsen Photography" <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2005 08:54:49 -0600

I normally use it at 1:9. 1:30 seems quite diluted. I don't recall where
I've used it more dilute than 1:20. 



Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street
Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
http://e.neilsen.home.att.net
http://ericneilsenphotography.com
 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:pure-silver-
> bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Richard Knoppow
> Sent: Monday, October 31, 2005 4:40 PM
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Toning Question
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeffrey Thorns" <puresilver@xxxxxxxxx>
> To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, October 31, 2005 12:40 PM
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Toning Question
> 
> 
> > So, how much do most people dilute KBT? I didn't see the
> > dilution listed on the bottle.
> >
> >
>    Normally  1:30. The toner works very slowly at room
> temperature so its usually heated to 100F in a water bath.
>    While I have toned many prints in KBT without a post
> toning sulfite bath with no difficulty from staining it is
> still recommended. Agfa recommends a 10% sulfite bath. I've
> used stock Kodak Hypo Claring Agent successfully but have
> not tested if it works as well diluted.
>    Both New Viradon and KBT are polysulfide toners. These
> have the peculiar propertly of toning faster as they are
> diluted or exhausted. That's why they tend to continue
> toning in the wash unless the wash is very fast. The sulfite
> bath stops this after toning.
>    Polysulfide (liver of sulfur) toner is one of the few
> that tones all densities evenly so it can be used for
> partial toning without split tones and with uniform image
> protection.
>    As a general rule single bath toners are cooler (bluer)
> than bleach and redevelop types. The color of the toned
> image will depend on the nature of the original image but,
> again a rule of thumb only, the warmer the original image
> the more yellow it will be after toning.
>    Bleach and redevelop toners are recommended for cold and
> neutral tone papers which may not show much color change
> with single bath toners. However, one must tone completely
> in them. It _is_ possible to delibrately split tone by not
> bleaching completely. The remaining silver can be toned with
> a different toner if desired.
>    The best source of practical toning information is _The
> Photographer's Master Printing Course_ by Tim Rudman. This
> has a wealth of data in it.
>    The curious thing is that my preference for Justin's
> photo would be blue toning, probably a Gold toner, which is
> both archival and more subtle than Iron-Blue.
> ---
> Richard Knoppow
> Los Angeles, CA, USA
> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
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