First off thank you very much Michael for the write up and pictures. It took me
a few days to get to this email and I will certainly be needing to read it over
a few times if I choose to do the work myself.
A couple of questions for you or other members who might know. I just go off
the phone with a local dealer and the models are T9.9 XPB (power tilt), and
XEHB (manual). The difference in price quoted was only $100 bucks. I am being
quoted a bit over 3 grand per engine. I was told the XEHB could not be started
with the key but at the engine. Is this true? Has anyone had experience with
the power tilt, it would be a nice feature and it seems the XL2’s have them? I
am in Florida and my boat is in California so I may need to pay for labor.
We’ll see how much they quote me. I have been quoted $4,000 for labor before
which seems rather steep and that figure might get me to try and do the work
myself.
Thanks again for your time and thoughts,
Eduardo
On Feb 11, 2014, at 8:29 PM, Stephen Wendl <sww.scoaa@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
for some reason this msg was dropped
Begin forwarded message:
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From: "Michael Zotzky" <mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Seawind 1000 Jumanji Re-Power
Date: February 11, 2014 at 4:26:33 PM PST
To: <scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: <michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx>
Eduardo,
Here is my write-up after doing the repower on my SW1000. I currently have
about 50 hrs on each motor since the repower. I would say the new motors are
quieter, get better gas mileage, but do not have the torque of the older
motors. The power is adequate though. These motors also have the flush
fitting, which makes them very easy to flush out with fresh water after every
use.
They are considerably smaller – even though both are 9.9 hp – and take up
less room in the box. That also makes them easier to remove using the boom.
I did not dry dock the boat to do the motor change-out.
Michael
From: Michael Zotzky [mailto:mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx] ;
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 4:02 PM
To: 'scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx'
Subject: Seawind 1000 Jumanji Re-Power
Hello All,
Just wanted to share some info on our recent re-power of 2002 Seawind 1000,
hull 123. The original engines were 2002 year model Yamaha FT9.9D outboards.
The port engine failed after 1,100 hours (crankshaft & bearings), and the
cost to repair the motor was estimated to be $2,600 vs $3,000 for new motor.
We chose to replace both engines with new Yamaha XEHA model outboards. These
are 9.9 hp, extra long shaft (25 in) engines – as were the original motors.
However, as Joe and others have noted, the original motors were the 323 cm3
(19.71 cu in) displacement outboard that used the same block as the 15 hp.
The new 9.9 Yamahas share the same block as the 8 hp models with 212 cm3. I
cannot comment on thrust generated by new motor vs the old ones, as they’ve
only been run a few minutes so far. On the plus side, the new motors weigh
less, are smaller, and quieter – and may burn less fuel.
Anyway, back to the re-power. The choice facing anyone in the US doing this
is to buy: a) model with remote shift and throttle setup, but with power tilt
and trim (and a very tall mounting bracket that requires modification of the
motor pod), or b) model with tiller and manual tilt and trim (and shorter
mounting bracket). We opted for selection b), and ordered the stainless
parts from Seawind to convert from tiller to remote operation. (Current cost
is $315 per motor for the Seawind parts, plus $70 shipping from Aussie land.)
The two-motor bundle of parts is shown in the picture labeled “ONE – SEAWIND
KIT”. We disconnected the shift cable in the motor, by pulling out one very
small cotter pin. This is going to take a long screwdriver to bend flat, and
then a set of needle-nose pliers to pull it. Just follow the shift cable to
find it. The throttle control actually consists of two cables that pull in
either direction. You can loosen the cables and then the slugs on the end
have to be worked thru some slots to disconnect. Then disconnect the wiring
(unplugged the two starter button wires, and the two kill switch wires), and
completely remove the tiller handle. You can see in picture TWO that the
only remnants of the tiller are the two holes (top, right). I saved the
tiller assembly as when I was selling my old working motor, there was a lot
of demand from fishermen wanting to use them for kickers, but few wanted to
deal with the remote controls. This will allow me to convert the motors back
to tiller operation.
On the tiller side, is a soft rubber section that is about 3 inches wide by
1-1/2 inches tall that has three holes – one for the power cable, one for the
throttle and shift cables, and a third hole for the small wires of the kill
switch and starter button. This rubber section pops in and out pretty
easily. We removed the new power cable, and used the hole to hookup the old
power cable to the motor. The throttle/shift cable holes were filled with
black silicone and sealed – since you are going to be moving these cables to
the other side of the motor. The third hole – a round one – was used to run
the electrical harness cable into the motor. Note that we also re-used our
old 7-pin harness for this, and did not buy a new harness. (Re-using the
harness and the power cables also avoided having to rerun and seal these thru
the bulkhead.) Look at the rubber section, and compare it to the cable and
harness wires, and it’s pretty obvious which hole to use for the power cable
(flat), and which to use for the wiring harness (round).
Wiring was very simple as Yamaha wiring is standard color. Merely hook up
the harness wires to the same color wires in the motor. All of the
connections are on one side of the motor, and held in place in a bracket.
There are also a couple of connections in the front. The male ends on the
harness plug into female wires on the motors. Some female ends of harness
wires had male ends in the motor. It was pretty idiot proof. Although I was
really concerned about this beforehand, wiring turned out to be the easiest
part of the re-power. Go ahead and wire up the harness before you put the
motor in the well. If you look at picture one, you can see how the power
cable and wiring harness fit under a plastic fitting near the top right, and
then lead into the rubber panel on the motor. I also zip tied these two
cables to this fitting, so they don’t move. Near the top of picture TWO, you
can also see where all of the wires come together.
Now for the Teleflex cables. The Seawind parts include a bracket that bolts
to the bottom cowling of the motor, using existing holes. The throttle and
shift cables are held in place with Teleflex cable clips (also included in
the Seawind kit). It is a fairly sturdy bracket, and needs to be as the
cables put a lot of stress on it. The bracket is well-made, with the only
disappointment being the holes pre-drilled on the bracket are not the same
spacing as the Teleflex cable clips. So be prepared to drill new holes –
which unfortunately need to overlap the old holes – or “widen” them however
you can. Make sure you have new bits as stainless is not easy to drill,
especially when the new hole overlaps the old.
For the attachment of the throttle cable on top, the holes were in the right
location, but just needed to be correctly spaced. For the shift attachment
on the side, we found that drilling new holes about one-half inch closer to
the motor allowed for more thread in the plastic end piece of the cable. (In
the original hole position, there was only about 1/4 inch of the cable rod
threaded into the end fitting.) In picture THREE, you can see the cable
attachments. The choke and the hard rubber panel on this side of the motor
are removed. Note that the throttle is on the right, and the shift cable on
the left. (Ignore the second set of holes we drilled further in from the
throttle cable attachment. I was trying to see if moving it back a half inch
– as was necessary for the shift cable – but this moved it too far back.)
Another thing to note in picture THREE is that the Seawind bracket is
attached via the two Phillips-head screws seen below the throttle cable.
(Note that you have to buy all of these screws – they are not in the Seawind
kit. If I had thought about it, I should have noted diameter and length of
each of the screws we used. We ended up buying several sizes, and cut them
off with a hacksaw to get a precise length.) I used stainless steel washers,
separated from the aluminum motor with nylon washers – to prevent corrosion.
I layed a couple of sections of electrical tape on the top of the bracket
that comes in contact with the motor, to prevent corrosion as well. Nylock
nuts were used on all screws. Also, you can see that I used black heat
shrink tubing to seal the connection of the stainless cable tube to the cable
end fitting. On my cables (old), these tubes had separated and left wire
exposed. Hopefully this will limit the exposure of the wire section to salt
water.
The black round fitting that is about two inches to the right of the throttle
cable – with a rubber cap to the right of that – is the new Yamaha fuel line
fitting. They are now round, and you twist on the hose. The short black
hose on the left side of the motor is the flush hose. I eventually extended
these up so they could be accessed easier. (More on that later.) The water
hose end fitting normally attaches to the motor, but this bracket was removed
as it was in the way of the new shift cable placement. Note that this end
fitting must stay connected when the motor is run, or else the water will go
overboard and not cool the powerhead.
Unfortunately I do not have better pictures of the shift connection
installed. You can see the fitting in the middle of the SEAWIND KIT picture
earlier. Probably the best piece of the Seawind kit is this short stainless
steel arm that attaches to the shift axle running across the motor. If you
look closely at picture THREE, this axle runs below the attachment point for
the throttle. You can see the shiny stainless fitting coming in from the
left side of the motor, and held in place with a hex-head screw. Whereas the
Yamaha kit has this shift lever made in plastic, and turned up, the Seawind
kit features it in stainless, and turned down. A rubber cap is removed from
the side of the motor, and the Seawind piece is slid onto the shift axle, and
fastened with a bolt with metric threads. The bolt threads into the axle.
This is really the only metric bolt you will need to buy (unless you live
outside of the US). Oh, and one more thing I did before sliding on the
Seawind shift lever was to put two o-rings on the piece. There is not enough
space for them to fit between the lever and the motor, but on the outside
they can act as a bit of a guard to limit water splashing in between the
shift piece and the motor.
If you look at picture FOUR, you can see the choke installed, and the hard
rubber panel at the base of the choke pull in place as well. This panel
needs to be drilled so that the throttle cable can fit thru it. This takes a
lot of measurement to determine where to drill, and a 1/4 in hole. (I
stretched tape across the opening, straightened a coat hanger, and ran it
thru the Teleflex cable bracket to the throttle end fitting to see where the
hole should be located to line up.) The rubber drills very easily. I spaced
up a bit size because a 1/4 inch bit yielded a hole smaller than 1/4 inch.
After you drill the hole, take a sharp knife and cut a slit from the hole
down thru the bottom of the rubber panel. This makes it easy to put on
without having to remove the cable. The slit closes up watertight when the
metal piece on top is bolted on. Near the bottom of picture FOUR you can see
three holes in the bracket that were not used. The outside empty holes were
the original ones. The middle hole is one drilled to fit the Teleflex clamp.
The screws shown are for the final placement of the Teleflex clamp (which is
on the other side, and cannot be seen in this picture.) So you might want to
check your shift cable length before drilling any new holes.
As the shift lever is not turned down, whereas the old motor lever was turned
up, the next step required is to disassembly the Teleflex shifter/throttle
control and move the shift cable to the other side of the cam. I removed the
hose clamps in the starboard hull closet below, and tugged on the cables to
try to get some excess so that the Teleflex assembly could be pulled up to
access the cable attachments. This is where things got bloody as the
internals of this mechanism have a host of sharp parts. Also be careful that
you don’t pull the assembly so far as to break the soldered wire connection
that tells the key switch the motor is in neutral, and motor circuit allowed
to start. This is easy to figure out once you see the assembly internals.
It would probably help to have someone below helping, but not necessary (as I
did mine myself). Note that if you don’t do this step, when you move the
shift forward, the motor will go into reverse. As I had both an old and new
motor installed at the same time. I had to disassemble this assembly twice.
I thought about doing both sides at the same time when doing the initial,
port motor installation, but didn’t think anyone test driving the old motor
would be impressed by it running backwards!
So that finishes the heavy stuff. Earlier I pointed out the water flush
hose. I removed the end fitting and added a 5/16 inch barb-to-barb connector
and about two feet of Teleflex 5/16 inch fuel hose to extend the end fitting
up to a reachable level. See picture FIVE – FLUSH HOSE. I also enclosed
this hose in the corrugated plastic tubing that is normally used to encase
wires and prevent them from chafe. You don’t want this piece of hose to
chafe thru, as your cooling water will be dumped overboard. I screwed the
end fitting to a small piece of high-density plastic. The screws come from
the back of the plate, into the plastic fitting – so you will need to
countersink them. Then I screwed the plate to the motor box with 1/2 inch
long screws. Be careful here as the motor box is very thin and you can
easily drill thru it. (Of course, if you don’t care about screw heads
showing, you can always just drill thru the box and screw into the plastic
fitting!) I zip-tied the tubing to the motor bracket to keep it from chafing
on the motor or the shift cable. It probably needs an additional clamp added
to keep it from falling into the motor well when disconnected. Only other
thing to note in this picture is that the fuel hoses are fairly long, so we
can lead them back and hook them into a special cap on the Honda generator.
When they are hooked to the outboard, there is a loop of fuel line velcro’d
on the wall.
Ok, so you probably noticed from picture FIVE that the footprint of these new
motors is very much smaller than the older motors. Plus Yamaha listed the
old 9.9’s at 116 lbs, but I suspect that was closer to 120 lbs based on
hefting them off and on the boat a few times. We weighed the new motor with
the tiller removed, and it came in at exactly 100 lbs. It is noticeably
lighter to carry than the old ones. Compare picture SIX to SEVEN to see the
difference in size.
Included in the Seawind is also a bracket to keep the motor from turning.
Both the old and new motors have the same friction lever that keeps the motor
from turning when engage, and allows it to turn when loosened. As this still
works on both of my old motors, and I like the ability to turn them when
working on them, I did not install the Seawind brackets. It also appeared
that the friction levers had to be disassembled on the motors to install the
Seawind brackets. If motor turning ever becomes an issue, I will pull the
motors and install them.
To-date, I installed the port motor, but had a bit of delay on the starboard
motor installation as I left the old one in place while trying to sell it.
(Generally people want to see them run before purchase!) A week ago the old
motor sold, and I installed the new starboard motor as well. Due to other
commitments, I have only run each of them a few minutes, flushed them, and
left the boat. The new motors are very much quieter, but “wiggle” much more
than the older motors. If it was a two-stroke, I would say this is from
break-in, but not sure about four-stroke. The previous owner replaced the
wood on the starboard motor bracket with plastic Star Board, and as the port
wood was showing some cracking, I did the same to the port side when we had
the engines off. I also replaced all of the board attachment screws as they
had evidence of crevice corrosion, and it was very easy to do when the motors
were off. I also put new bolts in to screw the motors to the brackets, and
note the hole placement is not the same for the new motors – so these have to
be drilled. (One of those 12 inch long, 1/4 inch diameter bits does this
easily.) I have purchased new hour meters and tachometers, and hope to
install all of this in the next week or two. We are planning a long trip in
early August, so would be good to get some of the motor break-in done prior
to departure.
Michael Zotzky
<Four.jpg><One - Seawind Kit.jpg><Seven - New Motor.jpg><Six - Old
Motor.jpg><Three.jpg><Two.jpg><Five - Flush Hose.jpg>
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