Hey Gary--Comments always welcome, I learn a lot. We tried pulling the
fuel lines clips but because of tight space very difficult to reconnect
easily and securely. They pop off and you run out of fuel at the most
inopportune times. There is a bit of fuel wasted but so much easier with
the valves. We do it every time, maybe overkill but we don't store the
boat as we're in Kona--year round sailing!
jay
On 2/18/2014 11:14 AM, Gary Oelze wrote:
Hi, Jay,
I agree with running the fuel out prior to storage. On a similar note I don't think fuel additives are worth a dime. I have held gas for years in my tanks and jerrys for 6 months each year. After six months I'll have some condensation which I'll discard (the water part). After 9 years I have never had to clean carbs or deal with poor operation. It may be due to using Red Gas from Venezuela.
For stowing engines, I just unplug the fuel line from the engines prior to running fuel out. Unless there is a problem incurred by doing it this way I think this saves a lot of idle run time, extra gas burning, some extra minor noise and nose pollution. I remove the sparkplugs and put a teaspoon of engine oil (I'll admit to some 3 in 1) in each cylinder. This aides in keeping cylinder wear down upon return 6 mo later. Re-seat the plugs prior to stowing long term of course.
I always feel like piping in, sorry so long in the tooth.
Gary
*From:*scoaa-members-bounces@xxxxxxxxx [mailto:scoaa-members-bounces@xxxxxxxxx] *On Behalf Of *jay lambert
*Sent:* Tuesday, February 18, 2014 11:07 AM
*To:* scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx
*Subject:* Re: [Scoaa-members] Auto-discard notification
Aloha, all---This may be what everyone does but no mention of it in the posts--we put fuel shut-off valves (plastic--cheap) in-line just ahead of the pump bulbs (so easy to reach) and shut the fuel off when back in the slip, letting the engines run until they are out of fuel. Keeps the carbs clean, no gumming of parts, regardless of what kind of fuel is used, especially if you don't use your boat regularly....
Jay
On 2/18/2014 4:48 AM, Eduardo Camps-Romero wrote:
Hello Joe,
I had my boat in Alameda at, I forget the name of the Marina but it was on the bay side and an Almar facility. Really liked my end tie and not having to motor up the estuary. I then left for Japan for a ear and placed the boat in Captained charter where my engines gave me endless problems and she was at Treasure Island for a bit and is now on the estuary in central basin.
Several Ha Ha's, impressive. My plan was to take the family in 2011 but then my wife was awarded a grant to do her fieldwork for her PhD in Anthropology in Japan and the cruising kitty went to support our family for the last two years. Now back in the USA but on the wrong coast, in Miami Florida. I bought a 18 foot Cape Dory Typhoon and wouldn't you know it, have had nothing but problems with my Honda 5 hp outboard.
I will look to give you a call when my voice comes back after a cold I am working through. I would really like to tap your experience and any help you might be able to provide. I have a game plan to Cabo but need to figure out the rest.
Thanks for you time,
Eduardo
On Feb 17, 2014, at 8:18 PM, JOE WEATHERS <JWEATHERS@xxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:JWEATHERS@xxxxxxxxxxxx>> wrote:
Hi Eduardo,
My name is Joe Weathers. Just getting caught up with the conversation that has been going on about your boat. Rigging, engine replacement, hull extensions, rudder seals, etc.. I keep my Seawind (Sea YA) at Alameda Calif, where do you keep your boat? I have enjoyed Sea Ya for the past 12 to 13 years and have been through many of the issues you address. If you care to give me a call ( 530 559 2807 ) I will be glad to help in any way I can. Sea YA and I started in San Diego and we have done several Ha Ha's events, and I have helped several others make that trip as well.
talk to you latter
Joe
Original Message -----
*From:*Eduardo Camps-Romero <mailto:ecampsromero@xxxxxxx>
*To:*scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>
*Sent:*Monday, February 17, 2014 3:18 PM
*Subject:*Re: [Scoaa-members] Auto-discard notification
Michael,
Thank you again. I am concerned about anything dragging in salt
water. I wonder how the new Seawinds XL2 deal with this. I can't
imagine they would have something sticking out of the engine pod.
I was told by the mechanic that on the XEHB (I don't think they
make the A anymore?) it wouldn't start at the key. It's good to
hear that at least yours did. X = 25" shaft, P = power tilt, not
really sure what the B means.
Later this week the mechanic will swing by my boat to give me an
estimate. I read that some folks were finding these engines for
$2500 but I don't think the mechanic would install it unless I
bought it from his shop. I would imagine it would take me longer
having never pulled an engine from my Seawind. I will wait and see
what the quote is. I can't really fly all my tools out so I am
kind of held hostage to paying for labor the more I think about
it. Really need to find out about this longer bracket. Perhaps
someone from Seawind can let me know as well as custom brackets
they may sell. I like the idea of replacing the wood in the engine
pods with something more durable. I am a bit concerned that these
engines seem to have less power as the older ones asI felt a
little thin on that department with my old motors. Again my old
motors were not pristine. If it wasn't so much labor I might look
harder at the Honda 20's. I really haven't heard of much else in
terms of engines being used. I read in the archives someone who
put the power tilt engines in his Seawind but didn't hear anything
about the bracket sticking out. Would be great if the owner could
comment for me.
I have a long list before I would feel the boat is ready to go out
the golden gate. Finish up replacing the standing rigging. Go over
the running rigging. New sails and I imagine batten cars. I have
original electronics but figure I will be beyond broke at this
point. I might hire a captain for the leg from San Francisco to
San Diego perhaps stopping off at the Islands along the way. Not
sure how much hiring a captain costs.
Then Maybe the the Ha Ha (a big regatta from San Diego to Cabo San
Lucas), will need some crew for that but I don't think at that
point I would need to hire a skipper feeling a bit more confident
in myself. That still leaves my boat far away from Florida and in
a hurricane area. I am really itching to cruise the Sea of Cortez
but can only take so much time off from work and really want the
boat at my home in Miami. I really don't want to sell her after
all I have put into her and she would be such a fine yacht for
Florida and Caribbean.
Really missing sailing on her.
Eduardo
On Feb 17, 2014, at 5:54 PM, Michael Zotzky
<michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx>> wrote:
Eduardo,
My motors are XEHA. Not sure what the difference in the A vs B. It may be that the A has the electric and pull start, and the B
has only the pull start? I would be surprised if that were the case.
I had the same choice of going with the power tilt model. If I
remember correctly, I could get that model without the tiller on
it, and wiring would have been easier. My concern was that the
mounting bracket for the power tilt sticks down much further, and
I didn't want anything dragging in the waves. Removing the tiller
and connecting the wiring harness was not so hard. Plus I
couldn't see using the power tilt function anyway, instead of the
standard pull-up bracket that comes with the boat. Once the
wiring harness was hooked up, both of my motors are started using
the Seawind key switch. I also hooked up dual tachometers and put
them in a pod to the right of the standard instrument pod. Makes
it very easy to assure that the motors are both running the same
speed. Its not unusual for us to spend a couple of days motoring
on the ICW to get to good cruising grounds, and having the tachs
to know exact engine RPM's comes in very handy there.
I installed both of my motors myself. Actually put them in the
boat myself as well. Just use the boom. It would have been
easier with another person, but I did a lot of measuring and
moving, etc, to get them exactly where I wanted, and didn't need a
helper standing around for that time watching. (In other words, I
sent my wife home! She didn't find the installation experience as
interesting as I did, apparently!)
Would I pay someone to do this? Yeah, if I really knew the
guy/gal would do a good job. I have not had great luck with small
motor mechanics. In more than a couple of instances, had to go
back behind them and fix things they messed up. This way I knew
exactly how to install, remove, wire, etc. I picked up both motors
new from the shop around 10 am, went to a friends garage to use
his bench to clamp the motor on, removed the tiller and got ready
for the wiring harness, carried it to the boat, installed, and was
done with the first motor before dark. Next day I did the second
motor, and had them both running by end of day. It really depends
whether you like doing this kind of stuff or not. I was most
intimidated by the wiring, but as it turned out, it was pretty easy.
On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 11:25 AM, Eduardo
Camps-Romero<ecampsromero@xxxxxxx <mailto:ecampsromero@xxxxxxx>>wrote:
First off thank you very much Michael for the write up and
pictures. It took me a few days to get to this email and I will
certainly be needing to read it over a few times if I choose to do
the work myself.
A couple of questions for you or other members who might know. I
just go off the phone with a local dealer and the models are T9.9
XPB (power tilt), and XEHB (manual). The difference in price
quoted was only $100 bucks. I am being quoted a bit over 3 grand
per engine. I was told the XEHB could not be started with the key
but at the engine. Is this true? Has anyone had experience with
the power tilt, it would be a nice feature and it seems the XL2's
have them? I am in Florida and my boat is in California so I may
need to pay for labor. We'll see how much they quote me. I have
been quoted $4,000 for labor before which seems rather steep and
that figure might get me to try and do the work myself.
Thanks again for your time and thoughts,
Eduardo
On Feb 11, 2014, at 8:29 PM, Stephen Wendl <sww.scoaa@xxxxxxxxx
<mailto:sww.scoaa@xxxxxxxxx>> wrote:
for some reason this msg was dropped
Begin forwarded message:
*From:*scoaa-members-bounces@xxxxxxxxx
<mailto:scoaa-members-bounces@xxxxxxxxx>
*Subject:Auto-discard notification*
*Date:*February 11, 2014 at 4:27:21 PM PST
*To:*scoaa-members-owner@xxxxxxxxx
<mailto:scoaa-members-owner@xxxxxxxxx>
The attached message has been automatically discarded.
*From: *"Michael Zotzky" <mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx>>
*Subject: Seawind 1000 Jumanji Re-Power*
*Date: *February 11, 2014 at 4:26:33 PM PST
*To: *<scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>>
*Cc: *<michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx>>
Eduardo,
Here is my write-up after doing the repower on my SW1000. I
currently have about 50 hrs on each motor since the repower. I would say the new motors are quieter, get better gas
mileage, but do not have the torque of the older motors. The
power is adequate though. These motors also have the flush
fitting, which makes them very easy to flush out with fresh
water after every use.
They are considerably smaller -- even though both are 9.9 hp
-- and take up less room in the box. That also makes them
easier to remove using the boom. I did not dry dock the boat
to do the motor change-out.
Michael
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:* Michael Zotzky [mailto:mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx]
*Sent:* Sunday, July 08, 2012 4:02 PM
*To:* 'scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>'
*Subject:* Seawind 1000 Jumanji Re-Power
Hello All,
Just wanted to share some info on our recent re-power of 2002
Seawind 1000, hull 123. The original engines were 2002 year
model Yamaha FT9.9D outboards. The port engine failed after
1,100 hours (crankshaft & bearings), and the cost to repair
the motor was estimated to be $2,600 vs $3,000 for new motor. We chose to replace both engines with new Yamaha XEHA model
outboards. These are 9.9 hp, extra long shaft (25 in) engines
-- as were the original motors. However, as Joe and others
have noted, the original motors were the 323 cm3 (19.71 cu in)
displacement outboard that used the same block as the 15 hp. The new 9.9 Yamahas share the same block as the 8 hp models
with 212 cm3. I cannot comment on thrust generated by new
motor vs the old ones, as they've only been run a few minutes
so far. On the plus side, the new motors weigh less, are
smaller, and quieter -- and may burn less fuel.
Anyway, back to the re-power. The choice facing anyone in
the US doing this is to buy: a) model with remote shift and
throttle setup, but with power tilt and trim (and a very tall
mounting bracket that requires modification of the motor pod),
or b) model with tiller and manual tilt and trim (and shorter
mounting bracket). We opted for selection b), and ordered the
stainless parts from Seawind to convert from tiller to remote
operation. (Current cost is $315 per motor for the Seawind
parts, plus $70 shipping from Aussie land.) The two-motor
bundle of parts is shown in the picture labeled "ONE --
SEAWIND KIT". We disconnected the shift cable in the motor,
by pulling out one very small cotter pin. This is going to
take a long screwdriver to bend flat, and then a set of
needle-nose pliers to pull it. Just follow the shift cable to
find it. The throttle control actually consists of two cables
that pull in either direction. You can loosen the cables and
then the slugs on the end have to be worked thru some slots to
disconnect. Then disconnect the wiring (unplugged the two
starter button wires, and the two kill switch wires), and
completely remove the tiller handle. You can see in picture
TWO that the only remnants of the tiller are the two holes
(top, right). I saved the tiller assembly as when I was
selling my old working motor, there was a lot of demand from
fishermen wanting to use them for kickers, but few wanted to
deal with the remote controls. This will allow me to convert
the motors back to tiller operation.
On the tiller side, is a soft rubber section that is about 3
inches wide by 1-1/2 inches tall that has three holes -- one
for the power cable, one for the throttle and shift cables,
and a third hole for the small wires of the kill switch and
starter button. This rubber section pops in and out pretty
easily. We removed the new power cable, and used the hole to
hookup the old power cable to the motor. The throttle/shift
cable holes were filled with black silicone and sealed --
since you are going to be moving these cables to the other
side of the motor. The third hole -- a round one -- was used
to run the electrical harness cable into the motor. Note that
we also re-used our old 7-pin harness for this, and did not
buy a new harness. (Re-using the harness and the power cables
also avoided having to rerun and seal these thru the
bulkhead.) Look at the rubber section, and compare it to the
cable and harness wires, and it's pretty obvious which hole to
use for the power cable (flat), and which to use for the
wiring harness (round).
Wiring was very simple as Yamaha wiring is standard color. Merely hook up the harness wires to the same color wires in
the motor. All of the connections are on one side of the
motor, and held in place in a bracket. There are also a
couple of connections in the front. The male ends on the
harness plug into female wires on the motors. Some female
ends of harness wires had male ends in the motor. It was
pretty idiot proof. Although I was really concerned about
this beforehand, wiring turned out to be the easiest part of
the re-power. Go ahead and wire up the harness before you put
the motor in the well. If you look at picture one, you can
see how the power cable and wiring harness fit under a plastic
fitting near the top right, and then lead into the rubber
panel on the motor. I also zip tied these two cables to this
fitting, so they don't move. Near the top of picture TWO, you
can also see where all of the wires come together.
Now for the Teleflex cables. The Seawind parts include a
bracket that bolts to the bottom cowling of the motor, using
existing holes. The throttle and shift cables are held in
place with Teleflex cable clips (also included in the Seawind
kit). It is a fairly sturdy bracket, and needs to be as the
cables put a lot of stress on it. The bracket is well-made,
with the only disappointment being the holes pre-drilled on
the bracket are not the same spacing as the Teleflex cable
clips. So be prepared to drill new holes -- which
unfortunately need to overlap the old holes -- or "widen" them
however you can. Make sure you have new bits as stainless is
not easy to drill, especially when the new hole overlaps the old.
For the attachment of the throttle cable on top, the holes
were in the right location, but just needed to be correctly
spaced. For the shift attachment on the side, we found that
drilling new holes about one-half inch closer to the motor
allowed for more thread in the plastic end piece of the
cable. (In the original hole position, there was only about
1/4 inch of the cable rod threaded into the end fitting.) In
picture THREE, you can see the cable attachments. The choke
and the hard rubber panel on this side of the motor are
removed. Note that the throttle is on the right, and the
shift cable on the left. (Ignore the second set of holes we
drilled further in from the throttle cable attachment. I was
trying to see if moving it back a half inch -- as was
necessary for the shift cable -- but this moved it too far back.)
Another thing to note in picture THREE is that the Seawind
bracket is attached via the two Phillips-head screws seen
below the throttle cable. (Note that you have to buy all of
these screws -- they are not in the Seawind kit. If I had
thought about it, I should have noted diameter and length of
each of the screws we used. We ended up buying several sizes,
and cut them off with a hacksaw to get a precise length.) I
used stainless steel washers, separated from the aluminum
motor with nylon washers -- to prevent corrosion. I layed a
couple of sections of electrical tape on the top of the
bracket that comes in contact with the motor, to prevent
corrosion as well. Nylock nuts were used on all screws. Also,
you can see that I used black heat shrink tubing to seal the
connection of the stainless cable tube to the cable end
fitting. On my cables (old), these tubes had separated and
left wire exposed. Hopefully this will limit the exposure of
the wire section to salt water.
The black round fitting that is about two inches to the right
of the throttle cable -- with a rubber cap to the right of
that -- is the new Yamaha fuel line fitting. They are now
round, and you twist on the hose. The short black hose on the
left side of the motor is the flush hose. I eventually
extended these up so they could be accessed easier. (More on
that later.) The water hose end fitting normally attaches to
the motor, but this bracket was removed as it was in the way
of the new shift cable placement. Note that this end fitting
must stay connected when the motor is run, or else the water
will go overboard and not cool the powerhead.
Unfortunately I do not have better pictures of the shift
connection installed. You can see the fitting in the middle
of the SEAWIND KIT picture earlier. Probably the best piece of
the Seawind kit is this short stainless steel arm that
attaches to the shift axle running across the motor. If you
look closely at picture THREE, this axle runs below the
attachment point for the throttle. You can see the shiny
stainless fitting coming in from the left side of the motor,
and held in place with a hex-head screw. Whereas the Yamaha
kit has this shift lever made in plastic, and turned up, the
Seawind kit features it in stainless, and turned down. A
rubber cap is removed from the side of the motor, and the
Seawind piece is slid onto the shift axle, and fastened with a
bolt with metric threads. The bolt threads into the axle.
This is really the only metric bolt you will need to buy
(unless you live outside of the US). Oh, and one more thing I
did before sliding on the Seawind shift lever was to put two
o-rings on the piece. There is not enough space for them to
fit between the lever and the motor, but on the outside they
can act as a bit of a guard to limit water splashing in
between the shift piece and the motor.
If you look at picture FOUR, you can see the choke installed,
and the hard rubber panel at the base of the choke pull in
place as well. This panel needs to be drilled so that the
throttle cable can fit thru it. This takes a lot of
measurement to determine where to drill, and a 1/4 in hole. (I stretched tape across the opening, straightened a coat
hanger, and ran it thru the Teleflex cable bracket to the
throttle end fitting to see where the hole should be located
to line up.) The rubber drills very easily. I spaced up a
bit size because a 1/4 inch bit yielded a hole smaller than
1/4 inch. After you drill the hole, take a sharp knife and
cut a slit from the hole down thru the bottom of the rubber
panel. This makes it easy to put on without having to remove
the cable. The slit closes up watertight when the metal piece
on top is bolted on. Near the bottom of picture FOUR you can
see three holes in the bracket that were not used. The outside
empty holes were the original ones. The middle hole is one
drilled to fit the Teleflex clamp. The screws shown are for
the final placement of the Teleflex clamp (which is on the
other side, and cannot be seen in this picture.) So you might
want to check your shift cable length before drilling any new
holes.
As the shift lever is not turned down, whereas the old motor
lever was turned up, the next step required is to disassembly
the Teleflex shifter/throttle control and move the shift cable
to the other side of the cam. I removed the hose clamps in
the starboard hull closet below, and tugged on the cables to
try to get some excess so that the Teleflex assembly could be
pulled up to access the cable attachments. This is where
things got bloody as the internals of this mechanism have a
host of sharp parts. Also be careful that you don't pull the
assembly so far as to break the soldered wire connection that
tells the key switch the motor is in neutral, and motor
circuit allowed to start. This is easy to figure out once you
see the assembly internals. It would probably help to have
someone below helping, but not necessary (as I did mine
myself). Note that if you don't do this step, when you move
the shift forward, the motor will go into reverse. As I had
both an old and new motor installed at the same time. I had
to disassemble this assembly twice. I thought about doing both
sides at the same time when doing the initial, port motor
installation, but didn't think anyone test driving the old
motor would be impressed by it running backwards!
So that finishes the heavy stuff. Earlier I pointed out the
water flush hose. I removed the end fitting and added a 5/16
inch barb-to-barb connector and about two feet of Teleflex
5/16 inch fuel hose to extend the end fitting up to a
reachable level. See picture FIVE -- FLUSH HOSE. I also
enclosed this hose in the corrugated plastic tubing that is
normally used to encase wires and prevent them from chafe. You don't want this piece of hose to chafe thru, as your
cooling water will be dumped overboard. I screwed the end
fitting to a small piece of high-density plastic. The screws
come from the back of the plate, into the plastic fitting --
so you will need to countersink them. Then I screwed the
plate to the motor box with 1/2 inch long screws. Be careful
here as the motor box is very thin and you can easily drill
thru it. (Of course, if you don't care about screw heads
showing, you can always just drill thru the box and screw into
the plastic fitting!) I zip-tied the tubing to the motor
bracket to keep it from chafing on the motor or the shift
cable. It probably needs an additional clamp added to keep it
from falling into the motor well when disconnected. Only other
thing to note in this picture is that the fuel hoses are
fairly long, so we can lead them back and hook them into a
special cap on the Honda generator. When they are hooked to
the outboard, there is a loop of fuel line velcro'd on the wall.
Ok, so you probably noticed from picture FIVE that the
footprint of these new motors is very much smaller than the
older motors. Plus Yamaha listed the old 9.9's at 116 lbs, but
I suspect that was closer to 120 lbs based on hefting them off
and on the boat a few times. We weighed the new motor with
the tiller removed, and it came in at exactly 100 lbs. It is
noticeably lighter to carry than the old ones. Compare
picture SIX to SEVEN to see the difference in size.
Included in the Seawind is also a bracket to keep the motor
from turning. Both the old and new motors have the same
friction lever that keeps the motor from turning when engage,
and allows it to turn when loosened. As this still works on
both of my old motors, and I like the ability to turn them
when working on them, I did not install the Seawind brackets. It also appeared that the friction levers had to be
disassembled on the motors to install the Seawind brackets. If motor turning ever becomes an issue, I will pull the motors
and install them.
To-date, I installed the port motor, but had a bit of delay on
the starboard motor installation as I left the old one in
place while trying to sell it. (Generally people want to see
them run before purchase!) A week ago the old motor sold, and
I installed the new starboard motor as well. Due to other
commitments, I have only run each of them a few minutes,
flushed them, and left the boat. The new motors are very much
quieter, but "wiggle" much more than the older motors. If it
was a two-stroke, I would say this is from break-in, but not
sure about four-stroke. The previous owner replaced the wood
on the starboard motor bracket with plastic Star Board, and as
the port wood was showing some cracking, I did the same to the
port side when we had the engines off. I also replaced all of
the board attachment screws as they had evidence of crevice
corrosion, and it was very easy to do when the motors were
off. I also put new bolts in to screw the motors to the
brackets, and note the hole placement is not the same for the
new motors -- so these have to be drilled. (One of those 12
inch long, 1/4 inch diameter bits does this easily.) I have
purchased new hour meters and tachometers, and hope to install
all of this in the next week or two. We are planning a long
trip in early August, so would be good to get some of the
motor break-in done prior to departure.
Michael Zotzky
<Four.jpg><One - Seawind Kit.jpg><Seven - New Motor.jpg><Six -
Old Motor.jpg><Three.jpg><Two.jpg><Five - Flush Hose.jpg>
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