Aloha, all---This may be what everyone does but no mention of it in the
posts--we put fuel shut-off valves (plastic--cheap) in-line just ahead
of the pump bulbs (so easy to reach) and shut the fuel off when back in
the slip, letting the engines run until they are out of fuel. Keeps the
carbs clean, no gumming of parts, regardless of what kind of fuel is
used, especially if you don't use your boat regularly....
Jay
On 2/18/2014 4:48 AM, Eduardo Camps-Romero wrote:
Hello Joe,
I had my boat in Alameda at, I forget the name of the Marina but it was on the bay side and an Almar facility. Really liked my end tie and not having to motor up the estuary. I then left for Japan for a ear and placed the boat in Captained charter where my engines gave me endless problems and she was at Treasure Island for a bit and is now on the estuary in central basin.
Several Ha Ha's, impressive. My plan was to take the family in 2011 but then my wife was awarded a grant to do her fieldwork for her PhD in Anthropology in Japan and the cruising kitty went to support our family for the last two years. Now back in the USA but on the wrong coast, in Miami Florida. I bought a 18 foot Cape Dory Typhoon and wouldn't you know it, have had nothing but problems with my Honda 5 hp outboard.
I will look to give you a call when my voice comes back after a cold I am working through. I would really like to tap your experience and any help you might be able to provide. I have a game plan to Cabo but need to figure out the rest.
Thanks for you time,
Eduardo
On Feb 17, 2014, at 8:18 PM, JOE WEATHERS <JWEATHERS@xxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:JWEATHERS@xxxxxxxxxxxx>> wrote:
Hi Eduardo,
My name is Joe Weathers. Just getting caught up with the conversation that has been going on about your boat. Rigging, engine replacement, hull extensions, rudder seals, etc.. I keep my Seawind (Sea YA) at Alameda Calif, where do you keep your boat? I have enjoyed Sea Ya for the past 12 to 13 years and have been through many of the issues you address. If you care to give me a call ( 530 559 2807 ) I will be glad to help in any way I can. Sea YA and I started in San Diego and we have done several Ha Ha's events, and I have helped several others make that trip as well.
talk to you latter
Joe
Original Message -----
*From:*Eduardo Camps-Romero <mailto:ecampsromero@xxxxxxx>
*To:*scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>
*Sent:*Monday, February 17, 2014 3:18 PM
*Subject:*Re: [Scoaa-members] Auto-discard notification
Michael,
Thank you again. I am concerned about anything dragging in salt
water. I wonder how the new Seawinds XL2 deal with this. I can't
imagine they would have something sticking out of the engine pod.
I was told by the mechanic that on the XEHB (I don't think they
make the A anymore?) it wouldn't start at the key. It's good to
hear that at least yours did. X = 25" shaft, P = power tilt, not
really sure what the B means.
Later this week the mechanic will swing by my boat to give me an
estimate. I read that some folks were finding these engines for
$2500 but I don't think the mechanic would install it unless I
bought it from his shop. I would imagine it would take me longer
having never pulled an engine from my Seawind. I will wait and
see what the quote is. I can't really fly all my tools out so I
am kind of held hostage to paying for labor the more I think
about it. Really need to find out about this longer bracket.
Perhaps someone from Seawind can let me know as well as custom
brackets they may sell. I like the idea of replacing the wood in
the engine pods with something more durable. I am a bit concerned
that these engines seem to have less power as the older ones asI
felt a little thin on that department with my old motors. Again
my old motors were not pristine. If it wasn't so much labor I
might look harder at the Honda 20's. I really haven't heard of
much else in terms of engines being used. I read in the archives
someone who put the power tilt engines in his Seawind but didn't
hear anything about the bracket sticking out. Would be great if
the owner could comment for me.
I have a long list before I would feel the boat is ready to go
out the golden gate. Finish up replacing the standing rigging. Go
over the running rigging. New sails and I imagine batten cars. I
have original electronics but figure I will be beyond broke at
this point. I might hire a captain for the leg from San Francisco
to San Diego perhaps stopping off at the Islands along the way.
Not sure how much hiring a captain costs.
Then Maybe the the Ha Ha (a big regatta from San Diego to Cabo
San Lucas), will need some crew for that but I don't think at
that point I would need to hire a skipper feeling a bit more
confident in myself. That still leaves my boat far away from
Florida and in a hurricane area. I am really itching to cruise
the Sea of Cortez but can only take so much time off from work
and really want the boat at my home in Miami. I really don't want
to sell her after all I have put into her and she would be such a
fine yacht for Florida and Caribbean.
Really missing sailing on her.
Eduardo
On Feb 17, 2014, at 5:54 PM, Michael Zotzky
<michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx>> wrote:
Eduardo,
My motors are XEHA. Not sure what the difference in the A vs
B. It may be that the A has the electric and pull start, and
the B has only the pull start? I would be surprised if that
were the case.
I had the same choice of going with the power tilt model. If I
remember correctly, I could get that model without the tiller on
it, and wiring would have been easier. My concern was that the
mounting bracket for the power tilt sticks down much further,
and I didn't want anything dragging in the waves. Removing the
tiller and connecting the wiring harness was not so hard. Plus
I couldn't see using the power tilt function anyway, instead of
the standard pull-up bracket that comes with the boat. Once the
wiring harness was hooked up, both of my motors are started
using the Seawind key switch. I also hooked up dual tachometers
and put them in a pod to the right of the standard instrument
pod. Makes it very easy to assure that the motors are both
running the same speed. Its not unusual for us to spend a
couple of days motoring on the ICW to get to good cruising
grounds, and having the tachs to know exact engine RPM's comes
in very handy there.
I installed both of my motors myself. Actually put them in the
boat myself as well. Just use the boom. It would have been
easier with another person, but I did a lot of measuring and
moving, etc, to get them exactly where I wanted, and didn't need
a helper standing around for that time watching. (In other
words, I sent my wife home! She didn't find the installation
experience as interesting as I did, apparently!)
Would I pay someone to do this? Yeah, if I really knew the
guy/gal would do a good job. I have not had great luck with
small motor mechanics. In more than a couple of instances, had
to go back behind them and fix things they messed up. This way
I knew exactly how to install, remove, wire, etc. I picked up
both motors new from the shop around 10 am, went to a friends
garage to use his bench to clamp the motor on, removed the
tiller and got ready for the wiring harness, carried it to the
boat, installed, and was done with the first motor before dark. Next day I did the second motor, and had them both running by
end of day. It really depends whether you like doing this kind
of stuff or not. I was most intimidated by the wiring, but as
it turned out, it was pretty easy.
On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 11:25 AM, Eduardo
Camps-Romero<ecampsromero@xxxxxxx
<mailto:ecampsromero@xxxxxxx>>wrote:
First off thank you very much Michael for the write up and
pictures. It took me a few days to get to this email and I
will certainly be needing to read it over a few times if I
choose to do the work myself.
A couple of questions for you or other members who might
know. I just go off the phone with a local dealer and the
models are T9.9 XPB (power tilt), and XEHB (manual). The
difference in price quoted was only $100 bucks. I am being
quoted a bit over 3 grand per engine. I was told the XEHB
could not be started with the key but at the engine. Is this
true? Has anyone had experience with the power tilt, it
would be a nice feature and it seems the XL2's have them? I
am in Florida and my boat is in California so I may need to
pay for labor. We'll see how much they quote me. I have been
quoted $4,000 for labor before which seems rather steep and
that figure might get me to try and do the work myself.
Thanks again for your time and thoughts,
Eduardo
On Feb 11, 2014, at 8:29 PM, Stephen Wendl
<sww.scoaa@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:sww.scoaa@xxxxxxxxx>> wrote:
for some reason this msg was dropped
Begin forwarded message:
*From:*scoaa-members-bounces@xxxxxxxxx
<mailto:scoaa-members-bounces@xxxxxxxxx>
*Subject:**Auto-discard notification*
*Date:*February 11, 2014 at 4:27:21 PM PST
*To:*scoaa-members-owner@xxxxxxxxx
<mailto:scoaa-members-owner@xxxxxxxxx>
The attached message has been automatically discarded.
*From:*"Michael Zotzky" <mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx>>
*Subject:**Seawind 1000 Jumanji Re-Power*
*Date:*February 11, 2014 at 4:26:33 PM PST
*To:*<scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>>
*Cc:*<michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx>>
Eduardo,
Here is my write-up after doing the repower on my SW1000. I currently have about 50 hrs on each motor since the
repower. I would say the new motors are quieter, get
better gas mileage, but do not have the torque of the older
motors. The power is adequate though. These motors also
have the flush fitting, which makes them very easy to flush
out with fresh water after every use.
They are considerably smaller -- even though both are 9.9
hp -- and take up less room in the box. That also makes
them easier to remove using the boom. I did not dry dock
the boat to do the motor change-out.
Michael
------------------------------------------------------------------------
*From:*Michael Zotzky [mailto:mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx]
*Sent:*Sunday, July 08, 2012 4:02 PM
*To:*'scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>'
*Subject:*Seawind 1000 Jumanji Re-Power
Hello All,
Just wanted to share some info on our recent re-power of
2002 Seawind 1000, hull 123. The original engines were
2002 year model Yamaha FT9.9D outboards. The port engine
failed after 1,100 hours (crankshaft & bearings), and the
cost to repair the motor was estimated to be $2,600 vs
$3,000 for new motor. We chose to replace both engines
with new Yamaha XEHA model outboards. These are 9.9 hp,
extra long shaft (25 in) engines -- as were the original
motors. However, as Joe and others have noted, the original
motors were the 323 cm3 (19.71 cu in) displacement outboard
that used the same block as the 15 hp. The new 9.9 Yamahas
share the same block as the 8 hp models with 212 cm3. I
cannot comment on thrust generated by new motor vs the old
ones, as they've only been run a few minutes so far. On
the plus side, the new motors weigh less, are smaller, and
quieter -- and may burn less fuel.
Anyway, back to the re-power. The choice facing anyone in
theUSdoing this is to buy: a) model with remote shift and
throttle setup, but with power tilt and trim (and a very
tall mounting bracket that requires modification of the
motor pod), or b) model with tiller and manual tilt and
trim (and shorter mounting bracket). We opted for
selection b), and ordered the stainless parts from Seawind
to convert from tiller to remote operation. (Current cost
is $315 per motor for the Seawind parts, plus $70 shipping
from Aussie land.) The two-motor bundle of parts is shown
in the picture labeled "ONE -- SEAWIND KIT". We
disconnected the shift cable in the motor, by pulling out
one very small cotter pin. This is going to take a long
screwdriver to bend flat, and then a set of needle-nose
pliers to pull it. Just follow the shift cable to find
it. The throttle control actually consists of two cables
that pull in either direction. You can loosen the cables
and then the slugs on the end have to be worked thru some
slots to disconnect. Then disconnect the wiring (unplugged
the two starter button wires, and the two kill switch
wires), and completely remove the tiller handle. You can
see in picture TWO that the only remnants of the tiller are
the two holes (top, right). I saved the tiller assembly as
when I was selling my old working motor, there was a lot of
demand from fishermen wanting to use them for kickers, but
few wanted to deal with the remote controls. This will
allow me to convert the motors back to tiller operation.
On the tiller side, is a soft rubber section that is about
3 inches wide by 1-1/2 inches tall that has three holes --
one for the power cable, one for the throttle and shift
cables, and a third hole for the small wires of the kill
switch and starter button. This rubber section pops in and
out pretty easily. We removed the new power cable, and
used the hole to hookup the old power cable to the motor. The throttle/shift cable holes were filled with black
silicone and sealed -- since you are going to be moving
these cables to the other side of the motor. The third
hole -- a round one -- was used to run the electrical
harness cable into the motor. Note that we also re-used
our old 7-pin harness for this, and did not buy a new
harness. (Re-using the harness and the power cables also
avoided having to rerun and seal these thru the bulkhead.)
Look at the rubber section, and compare it to the cable and
harness wires, and it's pretty obvious which hole to use
for the power cable (flat), and which to use for the wiring
harness (round).
Wiring was very simple as Yamaha wiring is standard color. Merely hook up the harness wires to the same color wires in
the motor. All of the connections are on one side of the
motor, and held in place in a bracket. There are also a
couple of connections in the front. The male ends on the
harness plug into female wires on the motors. Some female
ends of harness wires had male ends in the motor. It was
pretty idiot proof. Although I was really concerned about
this beforehand, wiring turned out to be the easiest part
of the re-power. Go ahead and wire up the harness before
you put the motor in the well. If you look at picture one,
you can see how the power cable and wiring harness fit
under a plastic fitting near the top right, and then lead
into the rubber panel on the motor. I also zip tied these
two cables to this fitting, so they don't move. Near the
top of picture TWO, you can also see where all of the wires
come together.
Now for the Teleflex cables. The Seawind parts include a
bracket that bolts to the bottom cowling of the motor,
using existing holes. The throttle and shift cables are
held in place with Teleflex cable clips (also included in
the Seawind kit). It is a fairly sturdy bracket, and needs
to be as the cables put a lot of stress on it. The bracket
is well-made, with the only disappointment being the holes
pre-drilled on the bracket are not the same spacing as the
Teleflex cable clips. So be prepared to drill new holes --
which unfortunately need to overlap the old holes -- or
"widen" them however you can. Make sure you have new bits
as stainless is not easy to drill, especially when the new
hole overlaps the old.
For the attachment of the throttle cable on top, the holes
were in the right location, but just needed to be correctly
spaced. For the shift attachment on the side, we found
that drilling new holes about one-half inch closer to the
motor allowed for more thread in the plastic end piece of
the cable. (In the original hole position, there was only
about 1/4 inch of the cable rod threaded into the end
fitting.) In picture THREE, you can see the cable
attachments. The choke and the hard rubber panel on this
side of the motor are removed. Note that the throttle is on
the right, and the shift cable on the left. (Ignore the
second set of holes we drilled further in from the throttle
cable attachment. I was trying to see if moving it back a
half inch -- as was necessary for the shift cable -- but
this moved it too far back.)
Another thing to note in picture THREE is that the Seawind
bracket is attached via the two Phillips-head screws seen
below the throttle cable. (Note that you have to buy all
of these screws -- they are not in the Seawind kit. If I
had thought about it, I should have noted diameter and
length of each of the screws we used. We ended up buying
several sizes, and cut them off with a hacksaw to get a
precise length.) I used stainless steel washers, separated
from the aluminum motor with nylon washers -- to prevent
corrosion. I layed a couple of sections of electrical tape
on the top of the bracket that comes in contact with the
motor, to prevent corrosion as well. Nylock nuts were used
on all screws. Also, you can see that I used black heat
shrink tubing to seal the connection of the stainless cable
tube to the cable end fitting. On my cables (old), these
tubes had separated and left wire exposed. Hopefully this
will limit the exposure of the wire section to salt water.
The black round fitting that is about two inches to the
right of the throttle cable -- with a rubber cap to the
right of that -- is the new Yamaha fuel line fitting. They
are now round, and you twist on the hose. The short black
hose on the left side of the motor is the flush hose. I
eventually extended these up so they could be accessed
easier. (More on that later.) The water hose end fitting
normally attaches to the motor, but this bracket was
removed as it was in the way of the new shift cable
placement. Note that this end fitting must stay connected
when the motor is run, or else the water will go overboard
and not cool the powerhead.
Unfortunately I do not have better pictures of the shift
connection installed. You can see the fitting in the middle
of the SEAWIND KIT picture earlier. Probably the best piece
of the Seawind kit is this short stainless steel arm that
attaches to the shift axle running across the motor. If
you look closely at picture THREE, this axle runs below the
attachment point for the throttle. You can see the shiny
stainless fitting coming in from the left side of the
motor, and held in place with a hex-head screw. Whereas the
Yamaha kit has this shift lever made in plastic, and turned
up, the Seawind kit features it in stainless, and turned
down. A rubber cap is removed from the side of the motor,
and the Seawind piece is slid onto the shift axle, and
fastened with a bolt with metric threads. The bolt threads
into the axle. This is really the only metric bolt you
will need to buy (unless you live outside of theUS). Oh,
and one more thing I did before sliding on the Seawind
shift lever was to put two o-rings on the piece. There is
not enough space for them to fit between the lever and the
motor, but on the outside they can act as a bit of a guard
to limit water splashing in between the shift piece and the
motor.
If you look at picture FOUR, you can see the choke
installed, and the hard rubber panel at the base of the
choke pull in place as well. This panel needs to be
drilled so that the throttle cable can fit thru it. This
takes a lot of measurement to determine where to drill, and
a 1/4 in hole. (I stretched tape across the opening,
straightened a coat hanger, and ran it thru the Teleflex
cable bracket to the throttle end fitting to see where the
hole should be located to line up.) The rubber drills very
easily. I spaced up a bit size because a 1/4 inch bit
yielded a hole smaller than 1/4 inch. After you drill the
hole, take a sharp knife and cut a slit from the hole down
thru the bottom of the rubber panel. This makes it easy to
put on without having to remove the cable. The slit closes
up watertight when the metal piece on top is bolted on.
Near the bottom of picture FOUR you can see three holes in
the bracket that were not used. The outside empty holes
were the original ones. The middle hole is one drilled to
fit the Teleflex clamp. The screws shown are for the final
placement of the Teleflex clamp (which is on the other
side, and cannot be seen in this picture.) So you might
want to check your shift cable length before drilling any
new holes.
As the shift lever is not turned down, whereas the old
motor lever was turned up, the next step required is to
disassembly the Teleflex shifter/throttle control and move
the shift cable to the other side of the cam. I removed
the hose clamps in the starboard hull closet below, and
tugged on the cables to try to get some excess so that the
Teleflex assembly could be pulled up to access the cable
attachments. This is where things got bloody as the
internals of this mechanism have a host of sharp parts.
Also be careful that you don't pull the assembly so far as
to break the soldered wire connection that tells the key
switch the motor is in neutral, and motor circuit allowed
to start. This is easy to figure out once you see the
assembly internals. It would probably help to have someone
below helping, but not necessary (as I did mine myself). Note that if you don't do this step, when you move the
shift forward, the motor will go into reverse. As I had
both an old and new motor installed at the same time. I
had to disassemble this assembly twice. I thought about
doing both sides at the same time when doing the initial,
port motor installation, but didn't think anyone test
driving the old motor would be impressed by it running
backwards!
So that finishes the heavy stuff. Earlier I pointed out the
water flush hose. I removed the end fitting and added a
5/16 inch barb-to-barb connector and about two feet of
Teleflex 5/16 inch fuel hose to extend the end fitting up
to a reachable level. See picture FIVE -- FLUSH HOSE. I
also enclosed this hose in the corrugated plastic tubing
that is normally used to encase wires and prevent them from
chafe. You don't want this piece of hose to chafe thru, as
your cooling water will be dumped overboard. I screwed the
end fitting to a small piece of high-density plastic. The
screws come from the back of the plate, into the plastic
fitting -- so you will need to countersink them. Then I
screwed the plate to the motor box with 1/2 inch long
screws. Be careful here as the motor box is very thin and
you can easily drill thru it. (Of course, if you don't
care about screw heads showing, you can always just drill
thru the box and screw into the plastic fitting!) I
zip-tied the tubing to the motor bracket to keep it from
chafing on the motor or the shift cable. It probably needs
an additional clamp added to keep it from falling into the
motor well when disconnected. Only other thing to note in
this picture is that the fuel hoses are fairly long, so we
can lead them back and hook them into a special cap on the
Honda generator. When they are hooked to the outboard,
there is a loop of fuel line velcro'd on the wall.
Ok, so you probably noticed from picture FIVE that the
footprint of these new motors is very much smaller than the
older motors. Plus Yamaha listed the old 9.9's at 116 lbs,
but I suspect that was closer to 120 lbs based on hefting
them off and on the boat a few times. We weighed the new
motor with the tiller removed, and it came in at exactly
100 lbs. It is noticeably lighter to carry than the old
ones. Compare picture SIX to SEVEN to see the difference in
size.
Included in the Seawind is also a bracket to keep the motor
from turning. Both the old and new motors have the same
friction lever that keeps the motor from turning when
engage, and allows it to turn when loosened. As this still
works on both of my old motors, and I like the ability to
turn them when working on them, I did not install the
Seawind brackets. It also appeared that the friction
levers had to be disassembled on the motors to install the
Seawind brackets. If motor turning ever becomes an issue,
I will pull the motors and install them.
To-date, I installed the port motor, but had a bit of delay
on the starboard motor installation as I left the old one
in place while trying to sell it. (Generally people want to
see them run before purchase!) A week ago the old motor
sold, and I installed the new starboard motor as well. Due
to other commitments, I have only run each of them a few
minutes, flushed them, and left the boat. The new motors
are very much quieter, but "wiggle" much more than the
older motors. If it was a two-stroke, I would say this is
from break-in, but not sure about four-stroke. The previous
owner replaced the wood on the starboard motor bracket with
plastic Star Board, and as the port wood was showing some
cracking, I did the same to the port side when we had the
engines off. I also replaced all of the board attachment
screws as they had evidence of crevice corrosion, and it
was very easy to do when the motors were off. I also put
new bolts in to screw the motors to the brackets, and note
the hole placement is not the same for the new motors -- so
these have to be drilled. (One of those 12 inch long, 1/4
inch diameter bits does this easily.) I have purchased new
hour meters and tachometers, and hope to install all of
this in the next week or two. We are planning a long trip
in early August, so would be good to get some of the motor
break-in done prior to departure.
Michael Zotzky
<Four.jpg><One - Seawind Kit.jpg><Seven - New
Motor.jpg><Six - Old Motor.jpg><Three.jpg><Two.jpg><Five -
Flush Hose.jpg>
_______________________________________________
Scoaa-members mailing list
Scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:Scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>
http://smtp.scoaa.net/mailman/listinfo/scoaa-members
_______________________________________________
Scoaa-members mailing list
Scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:Scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>
http://smtp.scoaa.net/mailman/listinfo/scoaa-members
_______________________________________________
Scoaa-members mailing list
Scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:Scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>
http://smtp.scoaa.net/mailman/listinfo/scoaa-members
------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________
Scoaa-members mailing list
Scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:Scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>
http://smtp.scoaa.net/mailman/listinfo/scoaa-members
------------------------------------------------------------------------
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG -www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com/>
Version: 10.0.1432 / Virus Database: 3705/6600 - Release Date:
02/17/14
_______________________________________________
Scoaa-members mailing list
Scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:Scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>
http://smtp.scoaa.net/mailman/listinfo/scoaa-members
_______________________________________________
Scoaa-members mailing list
Scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx
http://smtp.scoaa.net/mailman/listinfo/scoaa-members
