Eduardo, If you are considering hiring a Captain, I would recommend Ralph
Drahos. He has moved several Seawind 1000's and has taken one to Hawaii and
another from Homer Alaska down to Seattle, in addition to bringing several back
from Mexico. He brought my Seawind 1000 Barramundi up from the Sea of Cortez to
San Diego and did a great job. His phone number is 831-334-6028. If you have
any questions feel free to call me.
Steve Ellsworth
Barramundi
714-403-7753
From: scoaa-members-bounces@xxxxxxxxx [mailto:scoaa-members-bounces@xxxxxxxxx] ;
On Behalf Of Eduardo Camps-Romero
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2014 3:18 PM
To: scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Scoaa-members] Auto-discard notification
Michael,
Thank you again. I am concerned about anything dragging in salt water. I wonder
how the new Seawinds XL2 deal with this. I can't imagine they would have
something sticking out of the engine pod. I was told by the mechanic that on
the XEHB (I don't think they make the A anymore?) it wouldn't start at the key.
It's good to hear that at least yours did. X = 25" shaft, P = power tilt, not
really sure what the B means.
Later this week the mechanic will swing by my boat to give me an estimate. I
read that some folks were finding these engines for $2500 but I don't think the
mechanic would install it unless I bought it from his shop. I would imagine it
would take me longer having never pulled an engine from my Seawind. I will wait
and see what the quote is. I can't really fly all my tools out so I am kind of
held hostage to paying for labor the more I think about it. Really need to
find out about this longer bracket. Perhaps someone from Seawind can let me
know as well as custom brackets they may sell. I like the idea of replacing the
wood in the engine pods with something more durable. I am a bit concerned that
these engines seem to have less power as the older ones asI felt a little thin
on that department with my old motors. Again my old motors were not pristine.
If it wasn't so much labor I might look harder at the Honda 20's. I really
haven't heard of much else in terms of engines being used. I read in the
archives someone who put the power tilt engines in his Seawind but didn't hear
anything about the bracket sticking out. Would be great if the owner could
comment for me.
I have a long list before I would feel the boat is ready to go out the golden
gate. Finish up replacing the standing rigging. Go over the running rigging.
New sails and I imagine batten cars. I have original electronics but figure I
will be beyond broke at this point. I might hire a captain for the leg from San
Francisco to San Diego perhaps stopping off at the Islands along the way. Not
sure how much hiring a captain costs.
Then Maybe the the Ha Ha (a big regatta from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas), will
need some crew for that but I don't think at that point I would need to hire a
skipper feeling a bit more confident in myself. That still leaves my boat far
away from Florida and in a hurricane area. I am really itching to cruise the
Sea of Cortez but can only take so much time off from work and really want the
boat at my home in Miami. I really don't want to sell her after all I have put
into her and she would be such a fine yacht for Florida and Caribbean.
Really missing sailing on her.
Eduardo
On Feb 17, 2014, at 5:54 PM, Michael Zotzky
<michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx<mailto:michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx>> wrote:
Eduardo,
My motors are XEHA. Not sure what the difference in the A vs B. It may be
that the A has the electric and pull start, and the B has only the pull start?
I would be surprised if that were the case.
I had the same choice of going with the power tilt model. If I remember
correctly, I could get that model without the tiller on it, and wiring would
have been easier. My concern was that the mounting bracket for the power tilt
sticks down much further, and I didn't want anything dragging in the waves.
Removing the tiller and connecting the wiring harness was not so hard. Plus I
couldn't see using the power tilt function anyway, instead of the standard
pull-up bracket that comes with the boat. Once the wiring harness was hooked
up, both of my motors are started using the Seawind key switch. I also hooked
up dual tachometers and put them in a pod to the right of the standard
instrument pod. Makes it very easy to assure that the motors are both running
the same speed. Its not unusual for us to spend a couple of days motoring on
the ICW to get to good cruising grounds, and having the tachs to know exact
engine RPM's comes in very handy there.
I installed both of my motors myself. Actually put them in the boat myself as
well. Just use the boom. It would have been easier with another person, but I
did a lot of measuring and moving, etc, to get them exactly where I wanted, and
didn't need a helper standing around for that time watching. (In other words,
I sent my wife home! She didn't find the installation experience as
interesting as I did, apparently!)
Would I pay someone to do this? Yeah, if I really knew the guy/gal would do a
good job. I have not had great luck with small motor mechanics. In more than
a couple of instances, had to go back behind them and fix things they messed
up. This way I knew exactly how to install, remove, wire, etc. I picked up
both motors new from the shop around 10 am, went to a friends garage to use his
bench to clamp the motor on, removed the tiller and got ready for the wiring
harness, carried it to the boat, installed, and was done with the first motor
before dark. Next day I did the second motor, and had them both running by end
of day. It really depends whether you like doing this kind of stuff or not. I
was most intimidated by the wiring, but as it turned out, it was pretty easy.
On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 11:25 AM, Eduardo Camps-Romero
<ecampsromero@xxxxxxx<mailto:ecampsromero@xxxxxxx>> wrote:
First off thank you very much Michael for the write up and pictures. It took me
a few days to get to this email and I will certainly be needing to read it over
a few times if I choose to do the work myself.
A couple of questions for you or other members who might know. I just go off
the phone with a local dealer and the models are T9.9 XPB (power tilt), and
XEHB (manual). The difference in price quoted was only $100 bucks. I am being
quoted a bit over 3 grand per engine. I was told the XEHB could not be started
with the key but at the engine. Is this true? Has anyone had experience with
the power tilt, it would be a nice feature and it seems the XL2's have them? I
am in Florida and my boat is in California so I may need to pay for labor.
We'll see how much they quote me. I have been quoted $4,000 for labor before
which seems rather steep and that figure might get me to try and do the work
myself.
Thanks again for your time and thoughts,
Eduardo
On Feb 11, 2014, at 8:29 PM, Stephen Wendl
<sww.scoaa@xxxxxxxxx<mailto:sww.scoaa@xxxxxxxxx>> wrote:
for some reason this msg was dropped
Begin forwarded message:
From: scoaa-members-bounces@xxxxxxxxx<mailto:scoaa-members-bounces@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Auto-discard notification
Date: February 11, 2014 at 4:27:21 PM PST
To: scoaa-members-owner@xxxxxxxxx<mailto:scoaa-members-owner@xxxxxxxxx>
The attached message has been automatically discarded.
From: "Michael Zotzky" <mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx>>
Subject: Seawind 1000 Jumanji Re-Power
Date: February 11, 2014 at 4:26:33 PM PST
To: <scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx<mailto:scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>>
Cc: <michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx<mailto:michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx>>
Eduardo,
Here is my write-up after doing the repower on my SW1000. I currently have
about 50 hrs on each motor since the repower. I would say the new motors are
quieter, get better gas mileage, but do not have the torque of the older
motors. The power is adequate though. These motors also have the flush
fitting, which makes them very easy to flush out with fresh water after every
use.
They are considerably smaller - even though both are 9.9 hp - and take up less
room in the box. That also makes them easier to remove using the boom. I did
not dry dock the boat to do the motor change-out.
Michael
________________________________
From: Michael Zotzky [mailto:mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 4:02 PM
To: 'scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx<mailto:scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>'
Subject: Seawind 1000 Jumanji Re-Power
Hello All,
Just wanted to share some info on our recent re-power of 2002 Seawind 1000,
hull 123. The original engines were 2002 year model Yamaha FT9.9D outboards.
The port engine failed after 1,100 hours (crankshaft & bearings), and the cost
to repair the motor was estimated to be $2,600 vs $3,000 for new motor. We
chose to replace both engines with new Yamaha XEHA model outboards. These are
9.9 hp, extra long shaft (25 in) engines - as were the original motors.
However, as Joe and others have noted, the original motors were the 323 cm3
(19.71 cu in) displacement outboard that used the same block as the 15 hp. The
new 9.9 Yamahas share the same block as the 8 hp models with 212 cm3. I cannot
comment on thrust generated by new motor vs the old ones, as they've only been
run a few minutes so far. On the plus side, the new motors weigh less, are
smaller, and quieter - and may burn less fuel.
Anyway, back to the re-power. The choice facing anyone in the US doing this is
to buy: a) model with remote shift and throttle setup, but with power tilt and
trim (and a very tall mounting bracket that requires modification of the motor
pod), or b) model with tiller and manual tilt and trim (and shorter mounting
bracket). We opted for selection b), and ordered the stainless parts from
Seawind to convert from tiller to remote operation. (Current cost is $315 per
motor for the Seawind parts, plus $70 shipping from Aussie land.) The
two-motor bundle of parts is shown in the picture labeled "ONE - SEAWIND KIT".
We disconnected the shift cable in the motor, by pulling out one very small
cotter pin. This is going to take a long screwdriver to bend flat, and then a
set of needle-nose pliers to pull it. Just follow the shift cable to find it.
The throttle control actually consists of two cables that pull in either
direction. You can loosen the cables and then the slugs on the end have to be
worked thru some slots to disconnect. Then disconnect the wiring (unplugged
the two starter button wires, and the two kill switch wires), and completely
remove the tiller handle. You can see in picture TWO that the only remnants of
the tiller are the two holes (top, right). I saved the tiller assembly as when
I was selling my old working motor, there was a lot of demand from fishermen
wanting to use them for kickers, but few wanted to deal with the remote
controls. This will allow me to convert the motors back to tiller operation.
On the tiller side, is a soft rubber section that is about 3 inches wide by
1-1/2 inches tall that has three holes - one for the power cable, one for the
throttle and shift cables, and a third hole for the small wires of the kill
switch and starter button. This rubber section pops in and out pretty easily.
We removed the new power cable, and used the hole to hookup the old power cable
to the motor. The throttle/shift cable holes were filled with black silicone
and sealed - since you are going to be moving these cables to the other side of
the motor. The third hole - a round one - was used to run the electrical
harness cable into the motor. Note that we also re-used our old 7-pin harness
for this, and did not buy a new harness. (Re-using the harness and the power
cables also avoided having to rerun and seal these thru the bulkhead.) Look at
the rubber section, and compare it to the cable and harness wires, and it's
pretty obvious which hole to use for the power cable (flat), and which to use
for the wiring harness (round).
Wiring was very simple as Yamaha wiring is standard color. Merely hook up the
harness wires to the same color wires in the motor. All of the connections are
on one side of the motor, and held in place in a bracket. There are also a
couple of connections in the front. The male ends on the harness plug into
female wires on the motors. Some female ends of harness wires had male ends in
the motor. It was pretty idiot proof. Although I was really concerned about
this beforehand, wiring turned out to be the easiest part of the re-power. Go
ahead and wire up the harness before you put the motor in the well. If you
look at picture one, you can see how the power cable and wiring harness fit
under a plastic fitting near the top right, and then lead into the rubber panel
on the motor. I also zip tied these two cables to this fitting, so they don't
move. Near the top of picture TWO, you can also see where all of the wires
come together.
Now for the Teleflex cables. The Seawind parts include a bracket that bolts to
the bottom cowling of the motor, using existing holes. The throttle and shift
cables are held in place with Teleflex cable clips (also included in the
Seawind kit). It is a fairly sturdy bracket, and needs to be as the cables put
a lot of stress on it. The bracket is well-made, with the only disappointment
being the holes pre-drilled on the bracket are not the same spacing as the
Teleflex cable clips. So be prepared to drill new holes - which unfortunately
need to overlap the old holes - or "widen" them however you can. Make sure you
have new bits as stainless is not easy to drill, especially when the new hole
overlaps the old.
For the attachment of the throttle cable on top, the holes were in the right
location, but just needed to be correctly spaced. For the shift attachment on
the side, we found that drilling new holes about one-half inch closer to the
motor allowed for more thread in the plastic end piece of the cable. (In the
original hole position, there was only about 1/4 inch of the cable rod threaded
into the end fitting.) In picture THREE, you can see the cable attachments.
The choke and the hard rubber panel on this side of the motor are removed.
Note that the throttle is on the right, and the shift cable on the left.
(Ignore the second set of holes we drilled further in from the throttle cable
attachment. I was trying to see if moving it back a half inch - as was
necessary for the shift cable - but this moved it too far back.)
Another thing to note in picture THREE is that the Seawind bracket is attached
via the two Phillips-head screws seen below the throttle cable. (Note that you
have to buy all of these screws - they are not in the Seawind kit. If I had
thought about it, I should have noted diameter and length of each of the screws
we used. We ended up buying several sizes, and cut them off with a hacksaw to
get a precise length.) I used stainless steel washers, separated from the
aluminum motor with nylon washers - to prevent corrosion. I layed a couple of
sections of electrical tape on the top of the bracket that comes in contact
with the motor, to prevent corrosion as well. Nylock nuts were used on all
screws. Also, you can see that I used black heat shrink tubing to seal the
connection of the stainless cable tube to the cable end fitting. On my cables
(old), these tubes had separated and left wire exposed. Hopefully this will
limit the exposure of the wire section to salt water.
The black round fitting that is about two inches to the right of the throttle
cable - with a rubber cap to the right of that - is the new Yamaha fuel line
fitting. They are now round, and you twist on the hose. The short black hose
on the left side of the motor is the flush hose. I eventually extended these
up so they could be accessed easier. (More on that later.) The water hose end
fitting normally attaches to the motor, but this bracket was removed as it was
in the way of the new shift cable placement. Note that this end fitting must
stay connected when the motor is run, or else the water will go overboard and
not cool the powerhead.
Unfortunately I do not have better pictures of the shift connection installed.
You can see the fitting in the middle of the SEAWIND KIT picture earlier.
Probably the best piece of the Seawind kit is this short stainless steel arm
that attaches to the shift axle running across the motor. If you look closely
at picture THREE, this axle runs below the attachment point for the throttle.
You can see the shiny stainless fitting coming in from the left side of the
motor, and held in place with a hex-head screw. Whereas the Yamaha kit has
this shift lever made in plastic, and turned up, the Seawind kit features it in
stainless, and turned down. A rubber cap is removed from the side of the
motor, and the Seawind piece is slid onto the shift axle, and fastened with a
bolt with metric threads. The bolt threads into the axle. This is really the
only metric bolt you will need to buy (unless you live outside of the US). Oh,
and one more thing I did before sliding on the Seawind shift lever was to put
two o-rings on the piece. There is not enough space for them to fit between
the lever and the motor, but on the outside they can act as a bit of a guard to
limit water splashing in between the shift piece and the motor.
If you look at picture FOUR, you can see the choke installed, and the hard
rubber panel at the base of the choke pull in place as well. This panel needs
to be drilled so that the throttle cable can fit thru it. This takes a lot of
measurement to determine where to drill, and a 1/4 in hole. (I stretched tape
across the opening, straightened a coat hanger, and ran it thru the Teleflex
cable bracket to the throttle end fitting to see where the hole should be
located to line up.) The rubber drills very easily. I spaced up a bit size
because a 1/4 inch bit yielded a hole smaller than 1/4 inch. After you drill
the hole, take a sharp knife and cut a slit from the hole down thru the bottom
of the rubber panel. This makes it easy to put on without having to remove the
cable. The slit closes up watertight when the metal piece on top is bolted on.
Near the bottom of picture FOUR you can see three holes in the bracket that
were not used. The outside empty holes were the original ones. The middle
hole is one drilled to fit the Teleflex clamp. The screws shown are for the
final placement of the Teleflex clamp (which is on the other side, and cannot
be seen in this picture.) So you might want to check your shift cable length
before drilling any new holes.
As the shift lever is not turned down, whereas the old motor lever was turned
up, the next step required is to disassembly the Teleflex shifter/throttle
control and move the shift cable to the other side of the cam. I removed the
hose clamps in the starboard hull closet below, and tugged on the cables to try
to get some excess so that the Teleflex assembly could be pulled up to access
the cable attachments. This is where things got bloody as the internals of
this mechanism have a host of sharp parts. Also be careful that you don't pull
the assembly so far as to break the soldered wire connection that tells the key
switch the motor is in neutral, and motor circuit allowed to start. This is
easy to figure out once you see the assembly internals. It would probably help
to have someone below helping, but not necessary (as I did mine myself). Note
that if you don't do this step, when you move the shift forward, the motor will
go into reverse. As I had both an old and new motor installed at the same
time. I had to disassemble this assembly twice. I thought about doing both
sides at the same time when doing the initial, port motor installation, but
didn't think anyone test driving the old motor would be impressed by it running
backwards!
So that finishes the heavy stuff. Earlier I pointed out the water flush hose.
I removed the end fitting and added a 5/16 inch barb-to-barb connector and
about two feet of Teleflex 5/16 inch fuel hose to extend the end fitting up to
a reachable level. See picture FIVE - FLUSH HOSE. I also enclosed this hose
in the corrugated plastic tubing that is normally used to encase wires and
prevent them from chafe. You don't want this piece of hose to chafe thru, as
your cooling water will be dumped overboard. I screwed the end fitting to a
small piece of high-density plastic. The screws come from the back of the
plate, into the plastic fitting - so you will need to countersink them. Then I
screwed the plate to the motor box with 1/2 inch long screws. Be careful here
as the motor box is very thin and you can easily drill thru it. (Of course, if
you don't care about screw heads showing, you can always just drill thru the
box and screw into the plastic fitting!) I zip-tied the tubing to the motor
bracket to keep it from chafing on the motor or the shift cable. It probably
needs an additional clamp added to keep it from falling into the motor well
when disconnected. Only other thing to note in this picture is that the fuel
hoses are fairly long, so we can lead them back and hook them into a special
cap on the Honda generator. When they are hooked to the outboard, there is a
loop of fuel line velcro'd on the wall.
Ok, so you probably noticed from picture FIVE that the footprint of these new
motors is very much smaller than the older motors. Plus Yamaha listed the old
9.9's at 116 lbs, but I suspect that was closer to 120 lbs based on hefting
them off and on the boat a few times. We weighed the new motor with the tiller
removed, and it came in at exactly 100 lbs. It is noticeably lighter to carry
than the old ones. Compare picture SIX to SEVEN to see the difference in size.
Included in the Seawind is also a bracket to keep the motor from turning. Both
the old and new motors have the same friction lever that keeps the motor from
turning when engage, and allows it to turn when loosened. As this still works
on both of my old motors, and I like the ability to turn them when working on
them, I did not install the Seawind brackets. It also appeared that the
friction levers had to be disassembled on the motors to install the Seawind
brackets. If motor turning ever becomes an issue, I will pull the motors and
install them.
To-date, I installed the port motor, but had a bit of delay on the starboard
motor installation as I left the old one in place while trying to sell it.
(Generally people want to see them run before purchase!) A week ago the old
motor sold, and I installed the new starboard motor as well. Due to other
commitments, I have only run each of them a few minutes, flushed them, and left
the boat. The new motors are very much quieter, but "wiggle" much more than
the older motors. If it was a two-stroke, I would say this is from break-in,
but not sure about four-stroke. The previous owner replaced the wood on the
starboard motor bracket with plastic Star Board, and as the port wood was
showing some cracking, I did the same to the port side when we had the engines
off. I also replaced all of the board attachment screws as they had evidence
of crevice corrosion, and it was very easy to do when the motors were off. I
also put new bolts in to screw the motors to the brackets, and note the hole
placement is not the same for the new motors - so these have to be drilled.
(One of those 12 inch long, 1/4 inch diameter bits does this easily.) I have
purchased new hour meters and tachometers, and hope to install all of this in
the next week or two. We are planning a long trip in early August, so would be
good to get some of the motor break-in done prior to departure.
Michael Zotzky
<Four.jpg><One - Seawind Kit.jpg><Seven - New Motor.jpg><Six - Old
Motor.jpg><Three.jpg><Two.jpg><Five - Flush Hose.jpg>
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