Jay,
We do the same thing on Bula and run the fuel out of the carbs and we have been
very happy with our yamaha's.
Ken McLaughlin
Bula118
Sent from my iPad
On Feb 18, 2014, at 11:06 AM, jay lambert <jayfolks@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Aloha, all---This may be what everyone does but no mention of it in the
posts--we put fuel shut-off valves (plastic--cheap) in-line just ahead of the
pump bulbs (so easy to reach) and shut the fuel off when back in the slip,
letting the engines run until they are out of fuel. Keeps the carbs clean,
no gumming of parts, regardless of what kind of fuel is used, especially if
you don't use your boat regularly....
Jay
On 2/18/2014 4:48 AM, Eduardo Camps-Romero wrote:
Hello Joe,
I had my boat in Alameda at, I forget the name of the Marina but it was on
the bay side and an Almar facility. Really liked my end tie and not having
to motor up the estuary. I then left for Japan for a ear and placed the boat
in Captained charter where my engines gave me endless problems and she was
at Treasure Island for a bit and is now on the estuary in central basin.
Several Ha Ha’s, impressive. My plan was to take the family in 2011 but then
my wife was awarded a grant to do her fieldwork for her PhD in Anthropology
in Japan and the cruising kitty went to support our family for the last two
years. Now back in the USA but on the wrong coast, in Miami Florida. I
bought a 18 foot Cape Dory Typhoon and wouldn’t you know it, have had
nothing but problems with my Honda 5 hp outboard.
I will look to give you a call when my voice comes back after a cold I am
working through. I would really like to tap your experience and any help you
might be able to provide. I have a game plan to Cabo but need to figure out
the rest.
Thanks for you time,
Eduardo
On Feb 17, 2014, at 8:18 PM, JOE WEATHERS <JWEATHERS@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi Eduardo,
My name is Joe Weathers. Just getting caught up with the conversation that
has been going on about your boat. Rigging, engine replacement, hull
extensions, rudder seals, etc.. I keep my Seawind (Sea YA) at Alameda
Calif, where do you keep your boat? I have enjoyed Sea Ya for the past 12
to 13 years and have been through many of the issues you address. If you
care to give me a call ( 530 559 2807 ) I will be glad to help in any way I
can. Sea YA and I started in San Diego and we have done several Ha Ha's
events, and I have helped several others make that trip as well.
talk to you latter
Joe
Original Message -----
From: Eduardo Camps-Romero
To: scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2014 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Scoaa-members] Auto-discard notification
Michael,
Thank you again. I am concerned about anything dragging in salt water. I
wonder how the new Seawinds XL2 deal with this. I can’t imagine they would
have something sticking out of the engine pod. I was told by the mechanic
that on the XEHB (I don’t think they make the A anymore?) it wouldn’t start
at the key. It’s good to hear that at least yours did. X = 25” shaft, P =
power tilt, not really sure what the B means.
Later this week the mechanic will swing by my boat to give me an estimate.
I read that some folks were finding these engines for $2500 but I don’t
think the mechanic would install it unless I bought it from his shop. I
would imagine it would take me longer having never pulled an engine from my
Seawind. I will wait and see what the quote is. I can’t really fly all my
tools out so I am kind of held hostage to paying for labor the more I think
about it. Really need to find out about this longer bracket. Perhaps
someone from Seawind can let me know as well as custom brackets they may
sell. I like the idea of replacing the wood in the engine pods with
something more durable. I am a bit concerned that these engines seem to
have less power as the older ones asI felt a little thin on that department
with my old motors. Again my old motors were not pristine. If it wasn’t so
much labor I might look harder at the Honda 20’s. I really haven’t heard of
much else in terms of engines being used. I read in the archives someone
who put the power tilt engines in his Seawind but didn’t hear anything
about the bracket sticking out. Would be great if the owner could comment
for me.
I have a long list before I would feel the boat is ready to go out the
golden gate. Finish up replacing the standing rigging. Go over the running
rigging. New sails and I imagine batten cars. I have original electronics
but figure I will be beyond broke at this point. I might hire a captain for
the leg from San Francisco to San Diego perhaps stopping off at the Islands
along the way. Not sure how much hiring a captain costs.
Then Maybe the the Ha Ha (a big regatta from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas),
will need some crew for that but I don’t think at that point I would need
to hire a skipper feeling a bit more confident in myself. That still leaves
my boat far away from Florida and in a hurricane area. I am really itching
to cruise the Sea of Cortez but can only take so much time off from work
and really want the boat at my home in Miami. I really don’t want to sell
her after all I have put into her and she would be such a fine yacht for
Florida and Caribbean.
Really missing sailing on her.
Eduardo
On Feb 17, 2014, at 5:54 PM, Michael Zotzky <michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Eduardo,
My motors are XEHA. Not sure what the difference in the A vs B. It may
be that the A has the electric and pull start, and the B
has only the pull start? I would be surprised if that were the
case.
I had the same choice of going with the power tilt model. If I remember
correctly, I could get that model without the tiller on it, and wiring
would have been easier. My concern was that the mounting bracket for the
power tilt sticks down much further, and I didn't want anything dragging
in the waves. Removing the tiller and connecting the wiring harness was
not so hard. Plus I couldn't see using the power tilt function anyway,
instead of the standard pull-up bracket that comes with the boat. Once
the wiring harness was hooked up, both of my motors are started using the
Seawind key switch. I also hooked up dual tachometers and put them in a
pod to the right of the standard instrument pod. Makes it very easy to
assure that the motors are both running the same speed. Its not unusual
for us to spend a couple of days motoring on the ICW to get to good
cruising grounds, and having the tachs to know exact engine RPM's comes in
very handy there.
I installed both of my motors myself. Actually put them in the boat
myself as well. Just use the boom. It would have been easier with
another person, but I did a lot of measuring and moving, etc, to get them
exactly where I wanted, and didn't need a helper standing around for that
time watching. (In other words, I sent my wife home! She didn't find the
installation experience as interesting as I did, apparently!)
Would I pay someone to do this? Yeah, if I really knew the guy/gal would
do a good job. I have not had great luck with small motor mechanics. In
more than a couple of instances, had to go back behind them and fix things
they messed up. This way I knew exactly how to install, remove, wire,
etc. I picked up both motors new from the shop around 10 am, went to a
friends garage to use his bench to clamp the motor on, removed the tiller
and got ready for the wiring harness, carried it to the boat, installed,
and was done with the first motor before dark. Next day I did the second
motor, and had them both running by end of day. It really depends whether
you like doing this kind of stuff or not. I was most intimidated by the
wiring, but as it turned out, it was pretty easy.
On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 11:25 AM, Eduardo Camps-Romero
<ecampsromero@xxxxxxx> wrote:
First off thank you very much Michael for the write up and pictures. It
took me a few days to get to this email and I will certainly be needing
to read it over a few times if I choose to do the work myself.
A couple of questions for you or other members who might know. I just go
off the phone with a local dealer and the models are T9.9 XPB (power
tilt), and XEHB (manual). The difference in price quoted was only $100
bucks. I am being quoted a bit over 3 grand per engine. I was told the
XEHB could not be started with the key but at the engine. Is this true?
Has anyone had experience with the power tilt, it would be a nice feature
and it seems the XL2’s have them? I am in Florida and my boat is in
California so I may need to pay for labor. We’ll see how much they quote
me. I have been quoted $4,000 for labor before which seems rather steep
and that figure might get me to try and do the work myself.
Thanks again for your time and thoughts,
Eduardo
On Feb 11, 2014, at 8:29 PM, Stephen Wendl <sww.scoaa@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
for some reason this msg was dropped
Begin forwarded message:
From: scoaa-members-bounces@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Auto-discard notification
Date: February 11, 2014 at 4:27:21 PM PST
To: scoaa-members-owner@xxxxxxxxx
The attached message has been automatically discarded.
From: "Michael Zotzky" <mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Seawind 1000 Jumanji Re-Power
Date: February 11, 2014 at 4:26:33 PM PST
To: <scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: <michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx>
Eduardo,
Here is my write-up after doing the repower on my SW1000. I currently
have about 50 hrs on each motor since the repower. I would say the new
motors are quieter, get better gas mileage, but do not have the torque
of the older motors. The power is adequate though. These motors also
have the flush fitting, which makes them very easy to flush out with
fresh water after every use.
They are considerably smaller – even though both are 9.9 hp – and take
up less room in the box. That also makes them easier to remove using
the boom. I did not dry dock the boat to do the motor change-out.
Michael
From: Michael Zotzky [mailto:mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx] ;
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 4:02 PM
To: 'scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx'
Subject: Seawind 1000 Jumanji Re-Power
Hello All,
Just wanted to share some info on our recent re-power of 2002 Seawind
1000, hull 123. The original engines were 2002 year model Yamaha FT9.9D
outboards. The port engine failed after 1,100 hours (crankshaft &
bearings), and the cost to repair the motor was estimated to be $2,600
vs $3,000 for new motor. We chose to replace both engines with new
Yamaha XEHA model outboards. These are 9.9 hp, extra long shaft (25 in)
engines – as were the original motors. However, as Joe and others have
noted, the original motors were the 323 cm3 (19.71 cu in) displacement
outboard that used the same block as the 15 hp. The new 9.9 Yamahas
share the same block as the 8 hp models with 212 cm3. I cannot comment
on thrust generated by new motor vs the old ones, as they’ve only been
run a few minutes so far. On the plus side, the new motors weigh less,
are smaller, and quieter – and may burn less fuel.
Anyway, back to the re-power. The choice facing anyone in the US doing
this is to buy: a) model with remote shift and throttle setup, but with
power tilt and trim (and a very tall mounting bracket that requires
modification of the motor pod), or b) model with tiller and manual tilt
and trim (and shorter mounting bracket). We opted for selection b), and
ordered the stainless parts from Seawind to convert from tiller to
remote operation. (Current cost is $315 per motor for the Seawind
parts, plus $70 shipping from Aussie land.) The two-motor bundle of
parts is shown in the picture labeled “ONE – SEAWIND KIT”. We
disconnected the shift cable in the motor, by pulling out one very small
cotter pin. This is going to take a long screwdriver to bend flat, and
then a set of needle-nose pliers to pull it. Just follow the shift
cable to find it. The throttle control actually consists of two cables
that pull in either direction. You can loosen the cables and then the
slugs on the end have to be worked thru some slots to disconnect. Then
disconnect the wiring (unplugged the two starter button wires, and the
two kill switch wires), and completely remove the tiller handle. You
can see in picture TWO that the only remnants of
the tiller are the two holes (top,
right). I saved the tiller assembly as when I was selling my old
working motor, there was a lot of demand from fishermen wanting to use
them for kickers, but few wanted to deal with the remote controls. This
will allow me to convert the motors back to tiller operation.
On the tiller side, is a soft rubber section that is about 3 inches wide
by 1-1/2 inches tall that has three holes – one for the power cable, one
for the throttle and shift cables, and a third hole for the small wires
of the kill switch and starter button. This rubber section pops in and
out pretty easily. We removed the new power cable, and used the hole to
hookup the old power cable to the motor. The throttle/shift cable holes
were filled with black silicone and sealed – since you are going to be
moving these cables to the other side of the motor. The third hole – a
round one – was used to run the electrical harness cable into the motor.
Note that we also re-used our old 7-pin harness for this, and did not
buy a new harness. (Re-using the harness and the power cables also
avoided having to rerun and seal these thru the bulkhead.) Look at the
rubber section, and compare it to the cable and harness wires, and it’s
pretty obvious which hole to use for the power cable (flat), and which
to use for the wiring harness (round).
Wiring was very simple as Yamaha wiring is standard color. Merely hook
up the harness wires to the same color wires in the motor. All of the
connections are on one side of the motor, and held in place in a
bracket. There are also a couple of connections in the front. The male
ends on the harness plug into female wires on the motors. Some female
ends of harness wires had male ends in the motor. It was pretty idiot
proof. Although I was really concerned about this beforehand, wiring
turned out to be the easiest part of the re-power. Go ahead and wire up
the harness before you put the motor in the well. If you look at
picture one, you can see how the power cable and wiring harness fit
under a plastic fitting near the top right, and then lead into the
rubber panel on the motor. I also zip tied these two cables to this
fitting, so they don’t move. Near the top of picture TWO, you can also
see where all of the wires come together.
Now for the Teleflex cables. The Seawind parts include a bracket that
bolts to the bottom cowling of the motor, using existing holes. The
throttle and shift cables are held in place with Teleflex cable clips
(also included in the Seawind kit). It is a fairly sturdy bracket, and
needs to be as the cables put a lot of stress on it. The bracket is
well-made, with the only disappointment being the holes pre-drilled on
the bracket are not the same spacing as the Teleflex cable clips. So be
prepared to drill new holes – which unfortunately need to overlap the
old holes – or “widen” them however you can. Make sure you have new
bits as stainless is not easy to drill, especially when the new hole
overlaps the old.
For the attachment of the throttle cable on top, the holes were in the
right location, but just needed to be correctly
spaced. For the shift attachment on
the side, we found that drilling new holes about one-half inch closer to
the motor allowed for more thread in the plastic end piece of the cable.
(In the original hole position, there was only about 1/4 inch of the
cable rod threaded into the end fitting.) In picture THREE, you can see
the cable attachments. The choke and the hard rubber panel on this side
of the motor are removed. Note that the throttle is on the right, and
the shift cable on the left. (Ignore the second set of holes we drilled
further in from the throttle cable attachment. I was trying to see if
moving it back a half inch – as was necessary for the shift cable – but
this moved it too far back.)
Another thing to note in picture THREE is that the Seawind bracket is
attached via the two Phillips-head screws seen below the throttle cable.
(Note that you have to buy all of these screws – they are not in the
Seawind kit. If I had thought about it, I should have noted diameter
and length of each of the screws we used. We ended up buying several
sizes, and cut them off with a hacksaw to get a precise length.) I used
stainless steel washers, separated from the aluminum motor with nylon
washers – to prevent corrosion. I layed a couple of sections of
electrical tape on the top of the bracket that comes in contact with the
motor, to prevent corrosion as well. Nylock nuts were used on all
screws. Also, you can see that I used black heat shrink tubing to seal
the connection of the stainless cable tube to the cable end fitting. On
my cables (old), these tubes had separated and left wire exposed.
Hopefully this will limit the exposure of the wire section to salt water.
The black round fitting that is about two inches to the right of the
throttle cable – with a rubber cap to the right of that – is the new
Yamaha fuel line fitting. They are now round, and you twist on the
hose. The short black hose on the left side of the motor is the flush
hose. I eventually extended these up so they could be accessed easier.
(More on that later.) The water hose end fitting normally attaches to
the motor, but this bracket was removed as it was in the way of the new
shift cable placement. Note that this end fitting must stay connected
when the motor is run, or else the water will go overboard and not cool
the powerhead.
Unfortunately I do not have better pictures of the shift connection
installed. You can see the fitting in the middle of the SEAWIND KIT
picture earlier. Probably the best piece of the Seawind kit is this
short stainless steel arm that attaches to the shift axle running across
the motor. If you look closely at picture THREE, this axle runs below
the attachment point for the throttle. You can see the shiny stainless
fitting coming in from the left side of the motor, and held in place
with a hex-head screw. Whereas the Yamaha kit has this shift lever made
in plastic, and turned up, the Seawind kit features it in stainless, and
turned down. A rubber cap is removed from the side of the motor, and
the Seawind piece is slid onto the shift axle, and fastened with a bolt
with metric threads. The bolt threads into the axle. This is really
the only metric bolt you will need to buy (unless you live outside of
the US). Oh, and one more thing I did before sliding on the Seawind
shift lever was to put two o-rings on the piece. There is not enough
space for them to fit between the lever and the motor, but on the
outside they can act as a bit of a guard to limit water splashing in
between the shift piece and the motor.
If you look at picture FOUR, you can see the choke installed, and the
hard rubber panel at the base of the choke pull in place as well. This
panel needs to be drilled so that the throttle cable can fit thru it.
This takes a lot of measurement to determine where to drill, and a 1/4
in hole. (I stretched tape across the opening, straightened a coat
hanger, and ran it thru the Teleflex cable bracket to the throttle end
fitting to see where the hole should be located to line up.) The rubber
drills very easily. I spaced up a bit size because a 1/4 inch bit
yielded a hole smaller than 1/4 inch. After you drill the hole, take a
sharp knife and cut a slit from the hole down thru the bottom of the
rubber panel. This makes it easy to put on without having to remove the
cable. The slit closes up watertight when the metal piece on top is
bolted on. Near the bottom of picture FOUR you can see three holes in
the bracket that were not used. The outside empty holes were the
original ones. The middle hole is one drilled to fit the Teleflex
clamp. The screws shown are for the final placement of the Teleflex
clamp (which is on the other side, and cannot be seen in this picture.)
So you might want to check your shift cable length before drilling any
new holes.
As the shift lever is not turned down, whereas the old motor lever was
turned up, the next step required is to disassembly the Teleflex
shifter/throttle control and move the shift cable to the other side of
the cam. I removed the hose clamps in the starboard hull closet below,
and tugged on the cables to try to get some excess so that the Teleflex
assembly could be pulled up to access the cable attachments. This is
where things got bloody as the internals of this mechanism have a host
of sharp parts. Also be careful that you don’t pull the assembly so far
as to break the soldered wire connection that tells the key switch the
motor is in neutral, and motor circuit allowed to start. This is easy
to figure out once you see the assembly internals. It would probably
help to have someone below helping, but not necessary (as I did mine
myself). Note that if you don’t do this step, when you move the shift
forward, the motor will go into reverse. As I had both an old and new
motor installed at the same time. I had to disassemble this assembly
twice. I thought about doing both sides at the same time when doing the
initial, port motor installation, but didn’t think anyone test driving
the old motor would be impressed by it running backwards!
So that finishes the heavy stuff. Earlier I pointed out the water flush
hose. I removed the end fitting and added a
5/16 inch barb-to-barb connector
and about two feet of Teleflex 5/16 inch fuel hose to extend the end
fitting up to a reachable level. See picture FIVE – FLUSH HOSE. I
also enclosed this hose in the corrugated plastic tubing that is
normally used to encase wires and prevent them from chafe. You don’t
want this piece of hose to chafe thru, as your cooling water will be
dumped overboard. I screwed the end fitting to a small piece of
high-density plastic. The screws come from the back of the plate, into
the plastic fitting – so you will need to countersink them. Then I
screwed the plate to the motor box with 1/2 inch long screws. Be
careful here as the motor box is very thin and you can easily drill thru
it. (Of course, if you don’t care about screw heads showing, you can
always just drill thru the box and screw into the plastic fitting!) I
zip-tied the tubing to the motor bracket to keep it from chafing on the
motor or the shift cable. It probably needs an additional clamp added
to keep it from falling into the motor well when disconnected. Only
other thing to note in this picture is that the fuel hoses are fairly
long, so we can lead them back and hook them into a special cap on the
Honda generator. When they are hooked to the outboard, there is a loop
of fuel line velcro’d on the wall.
Ok, so you probably noticed from picture FIVE that the footprint of
these new motors is very much smaller than the older motors. Plus
Yamaha listed the old 9.9’s at 116 lbs, but I suspect that was closer to
120 lbs based on hefting them off and on the boat a few times. We
weighed the new motor with the tiller removed, and it came in at exactly
100 lbs. It is noticeably lighter to carry than the old ones. Compare
picture SIX to SEVEN to see the difference in size.
Included in the Seawind is also a bracket to keep the motor from
turning. Both the old and new motors have the same friction lever that
keeps the motor from turning when engage, and allows it to turn when
loosened. As this still works on both of my old motors, and I like the
ability to turn them when working on them, I did not install the Seawind
brackets. It also appeared that the friction levers had to be
disassembled on the motors to install the Seawind brackets. If motor
turning ever becomes an issue, I will pull the motors and install them.
To-date, I installed the port motor, but had a bit of delay on the
starboard motor installation as I left the old one in place while trying
to sell it. (Generally people want to see them run before purchase!) A
week ago the old motor
sold, and I installed the new starboard motor as well. Due to
other commitments, I have only run each of them a few minutes, flushed
them, and left the boat. The new motors are very much quieter, but
“wiggle” much more than the older motors. If it was a two-stroke, I
would say this is from break-in, but not sure about four-stroke. The
previous owner replaced the wood on the starboard motor bracket with
plastic Star Board, and as the port wood was showing some cracking, I
did the same to the port side when we had the engines off. I also
replaced all of the board attachment screws as they had evidence of
crevice corrosion, and it was very easy to do when the motors were off.
I also put new bolts in to screw the motors to the brackets, and note
the hole placement is not the same for the new motors – so these have to
be drilled. (One of those 12 inch long, 1/4 inch diameter bits does
this easily.) I have purchased new hour meters and tachometers, and
hope to install all of this in the next week or two. We are planning a
long trip in early August, so would be good to get some of the motor
break-in done prior to departure.
Michael Zotzky
<Four.jpg><One - Seawind Kit.jpg><Seven - New Motor.jpg><Six - Old
Motor.jpg><Three.jpg><Two.jpg><Five - Flush Hose.jpg>
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