I will be in New Port for about a week doing the New Port San Diego race. Get
home aroound the 26th. Looking forward to connecting with you
Joe My email address is jweathers@xxxxxxxxxxxx.
Sea Ya
----- Original Message -----
From: Eduardo Camps-Romero
To: JOE WEATHERS ; scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, February 18, 2014 6:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Scoaa-members] Auto-discard notification
Hello Joe,
I had my boat in Alameda at, I forget the name of the Marina but it was on
the bay side and an Almar facility. Really liked my end tie and not having to
motor up the estuary. I then left for Japan for a ear and placed the boat in
Captained charter where my engines gave me endless problems and she was at
Treasure Island for a bit and is now on the estuary in central basin.
Several Ha Ha’s, impressive. My plan was to take the family in 2011 but then
my wife was awarded a grant to do her fieldwork for her PhD in Anthropology in
Japan and the cruising kitty went to support our family for the last two years.
Now back in the USA but on the wrong coast, in Miami Florida. I bought a 18
foot Cape Dory Typhoon and wouldn’t you know it, have had nothing but problems
with my Honda 5 hp outboard.
I will look to give you a call when my voice comes back after a cold I am
working through. I would really like to tap your experience and any help you
might be able to provide. I have a game plan to Cabo but need to figure out the
rest.
Thanks for you time,
Eduardo
On Feb 17, 2014, at 8:18 PM, JOE WEATHERS <JWEATHERS@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hi Eduardo,
My name is Joe Weathers. Just getting caught up with the conversation that
has been going on about your boat. Rigging, engine replacement, hull
extensions, rudder seals, etc.. I keep my Seawind (Sea YA) at Alameda Calif,
where do you keep your boat? I have enjoyed Sea Ya for the past 12 to 13 years
and have been through many of the issues you address. If you care to give me a
call ( 530 559 2807 ) I will be glad to help in any way I can. Sea YA and I
started in San Diego and we have done several Ha Ha's events, and I have helped
several others make that trip as well.
talk to you latter
Joe
Original Message -----
From: Eduardo Camps-Romero
To: scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, February 17, 2014 3:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Scoaa-members] Auto-discard notification
Michael,
Thank you again. I am concerned about anything dragging in salt water. I
wonder how the new Seawinds XL2 deal with this. I can’t imagine they would have
something sticking out of the engine pod. I was told by the mechanic that on
the XEHB (I don’t think they make the A anymore?) it wouldn’t start at the key.
It’s good to hear that at least yours did. X = 25” shaft, P = power tilt, not
really sure what the B means.
Later this week the mechanic will swing by my boat to give me an
estimate. I read that some folks were finding these engines for $2500 but I
don’t think the mechanic would install it unless I bought it from his shop. I
would imagine it would take me longer having never pulled an engine from my
Seawind. I will wait and see what the quote is. I can’t really fly all my tools
out so I am kind of held hostage to paying for labor the more I think about it.
Really need to find out about this longer bracket. Perhaps someone from
Seawind can let me know as well as custom brackets they may sell. I like the
idea of replacing the wood in the engine pods with something more durable. I am
a bit concerned that these engines seem to have less power as the older ones
asI felt a little thin on that department with my old motors. Again my old
motors were not pristine. If it wasn’t so much labor I might look harder at the
Honda 20’s. I really haven’t heard of much else in terms of engines being used.
I read in the archives someone who put the power tilt engines in his Seawind
but didn’t hear anything about the bracket sticking out. Would be great if the
owner could comment for me.
I have a long list before I would feel the boat is ready to go out the
golden gate. Finish up replacing the standing rigging. Go over the running
rigging. New sails and I imagine batten cars. I have original electronics but
figure I will be beyond broke at this point. I might hire a captain for the leg
from San Francisco to San Diego perhaps stopping off at the Islands along the
way. Not sure how much hiring a captain costs.
Then Maybe the the Ha Ha (a big regatta from San Diego to Cabo San
Lucas), will need some crew for that but I don’t think at that point I would
need to hire a skipper feeling a bit more confident in myself. That still
leaves my boat far away from Florida and in a hurricane area. I am really
itching to cruise the Sea of Cortez but can only take so much time off from
work and really want the boat at my home in Miami. I really don’t want to sell
her after all I have put into her and she would be such a fine yacht for
Florida and Caribbean.
Really missing sailing on her.
Eduardo
On Feb 17, 2014, at 5:54 PM, Michael Zotzky <michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
Eduardo,
My motors are XEHA. Not sure what the difference in the A vs B. It
may be that the A has the electric and pull start, and the B has only the pull
start? I would be surprised if that were the case.
I had the same choice of going with the power tilt model. If I
remember correctly, I could get that model without the tiller on it, and wiring
would have been easier. My concern was that the mounting bracket for the power
tilt sticks down much further, and I didn't want anything dragging in the
waves. Removing the tiller and connecting the wiring harness was not so hard.
Plus I couldn't see using the power tilt function anyway, instead of the
standard pull-up bracket that comes with the boat. Once the wiring harness was
hooked up, both of my motors are started using the Seawind key switch. I also
hooked up dual tachometers and put them in a pod to the right of the standard
instrument pod. Makes it very easy to assure that the motors are both running
the same speed. Its not unusual for us to spend a couple of days motoring on
the ICW to get to good cruising grounds, and having the tachs to know exact
engine RPM's comes in very handy there.
I installed both of my motors myself. Actually put them in the boat
myself as well. Just use the boom. It would have been easier with another
person, but I did a lot of measuring and moving, etc, to get them exactly where
I wanted, and didn't need a helper standing around for that time watching. (In
other words, I sent my wife home! She didn't find the installation experience
as interesting as I did, apparently!)
Would I pay someone to do this? Yeah, if I really knew the guy/gal
would do a good job. I have not had great luck with small motor mechanics. In
more than a couple of instances, had to go back behind them and fix things they
messed up. This way I knew exactly how to install, remove, wire, etc. I
picked up both motors new from the shop around 10 am, went to a friends garage
to use his bench to clamp the motor on, removed the tiller and got ready for
the wiring harness, carried it to the boat, installed, and was done with the
first motor before dark. Next day I did the second motor, and had them both
running by end of day. It really depends whether you like doing this kind of
stuff or not. I was most intimidated by the wiring, but as it turned out, it
was pretty easy.
On Mon, Feb 17, 2014 at 11:25 AM, Eduardo Camps-Romero
<ecampsromero@xxxxxxx> wrote:
First off thank you very much Michael for the write up and pictures.
It took me a few days to get to this email and I will certainly be needing to
read it over a few times if I choose to do the work myself.
A couple of questions for you or other members who might know. I just
go off the phone with a local dealer and the models are T9.9 XPB (power tilt),
and XEHB (manual). The difference in price quoted was only $100 bucks. I am
being quoted a bit over 3 grand per engine. I was told the XEHB could not be
started with the key but at the engine. Is this true? Has anyone had experience
with the power tilt, it would be a nice feature and it seems the XL2’s have
them? I am in Florida and my boat is in California so I may need to pay for
labor. We’ll see how much they quote me. I have been quoted $4,000 for labor
before which seems rather steep and that figure might get me to try and do the
work myself.
Thanks again for your time and thoughts,
Eduardo
On Feb 11, 2014, at 8:29 PM, Stephen Wendl <sww.scoaa@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
for some reason this msg was dropped
Begin forwarded message:
From: scoaa-members-bounces@xxxxxxxxx
Subject: Auto-discard notification
Date: February 11, 2014 at 4:27:21 PM PST
To: scoaa-members-owner@xxxxxxxxx
The attached message has been automatically discarded.
From: "Michael Zotzky" <mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Seawind 1000 Jumanji Re-Power
Date: February 11, 2014 at 4:26:33 PM PST
To: <scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx>
Cc: <michaelzotzky@xxxxxxxxx>
Eduardo,
Here is my write-up after doing the repower on my SW1000. I
currently have about 50 hrs on each motor since the repower. I would say the
new motors are quieter, get better gas mileage, but do not have the torque of
the older motors. The power is adequate though. These motors also have the
flush fitting, which makes them very easy to flush out with fresh water after
every use.
They are considerably smaller – even though both are 9.9 hp – and
take up less room in the box. That also makes them easier to remove using the
boom. I did not dry dock the boat to do the motor change-out.
Michael
--------------------------------------------------------------------
From: Michael Zotzky [mailto:mzotzky@xxxxxxxxxxx] ;
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2012 4:02 PM
To: 'scoaa-members@xxxxxxxxx'
Subject: Seawind 1000 Jumanji Re-Power
Hello All,
Just wanted to share some info on our recent re-power of 2002
Seawind 1000, hull 123. The original engines were 2002 year model Yamaha
FT9.9D outboards. The port engine failed after 1,100 hours (crankshaft &
bearings), and the cost to repair the motor was estimated to be $2,600 vs
$3,000 for new motor. We chose to replace both engines with new Yamaha XEHA
model outboards. These are 9.9 hp, extra long shaft (25 in) engines – as were
the original motors. However, as Joe and others have noted, the original
motors were the 323 cm3 (19.71 cu in) displacement outboard that used the same
block as the 15 hp. The new 9.9 Yamahas share the same block as the 8 hp
models with 212 cm3. I cannot comment on thrust generated by new motor vs the
old ones, as they’ve only been run a few minutes so far. On the plus side, the
new motors weigh less, are smaller, and quieter – and may burn less fuel.
Anyway, back to the re-power. The choice facing anyone in the US
doing this is to buy: a) model with remote shift and throttle setup, but with
power tilt and trim (and a very tall mounting bracket that requires
modification of the motor pod), or b) model with tiller and manual tilt and
trim (and shorter mounting bracket). We opted for selection b), and ordered
the stainless parts from Seawind to convert from tiller to remote operation.
(Current cost is $315 per motor for the Seawind parts, plus $70 shipping from
Aussie land.) The two-motor bundle of parts is shown in the picture labeled
“ONE – SEAWIND KIT”. We disconnected the shift cable in the motor, by pulling
out one very small cotter pin. This is going to take a long screwdriver to
bend flat, and then a set of needle-nose pliers to pull it. Just follow the
shift cable to find it. The throttle control actually consists of two cables
that pull in either direction. You can loosen the cables and then the slugs on
the end have to be worked thru some slots to disconnect. Then disconnect the
wiring (unplugged the two starter button wires, and the two kill switch wires),
and completely remove the tiller handle. You can see in picture TWO that the
only remnants of the tiller are the two holes (top, right). I saved the tiller
assembly as when I was selling my old working motor, there was a lot of demand
from fishermen wanting to use them for kickers, but few wanted to deal with the
remote controls. This will allow me to convert the motors back to tiller
operation.
On the tiller side, is a soft rubber section that is about 3 inches
wide by 1-1/2 inches tall that has three holes – one for the power cable, one
for the throttle and shift cables, and a third hole for the small wires of the
kill switch and starter button. This rubber section pops in and out pretty
easily. We removed the new power cable, and used the hole to hookup the old
power cable to the motor. The throttle/shift cable holes were filled with
black silicone and sealed – since you are going to be moving these cables to
the other side of the motor. The third hole – a round one – was used to run
the electrical harness cable into the motor. Note that we also re-used our old
7-pin harness for this, and did not buy a new harness. (Re-using the harness
and the power cables also avoided having to rerun and seal these thru the
bulkhead.) Look at the rubber section, and compare it to the cable and harness
wires, and it’s pretty obvious which hole to use for the power cable (flat),
and which to use for the wiring harness (round).
Wiring was very simple as Yamaha wiring is standard color. Merely
hook up the harness wires to the same color wires in the motor. All of the
connections are on one side of the motor, and held in place in a bracket.
There are also a couple of connections in the front. The male ends on the
harness plug into female wires on the motors. Some female ends of harness
wires had male ends in the motor. It was pretty idiot proof. Although I was
really concerned about this beforehand, wiring turned out to be the easiest
part of the re-power. Go ahead and wire up the harness before you put the
motor in the well. If you look at picture one, you can see how the power cable
and wiring harness fit under a plastic fitting near the top right, and then
lead into the rubber panel on the motor. I also zip tied these two cables to
this fitting, so they don’t move. Near the top of picture TWO, you can also
see where all of the wires come together.
Now for the Teleflex cables. The Seawind parts include a bracket
that bolts to the bottom cowling of the motor, using existing holes. The
throttle and shift cables are held in place with Teleflex cable clips (also
included in the Seawind kit). It is a fairly sturdy bracket, and needs to be
as the cables put a lot of stress on it. The bracket is well-made, with the
only disappointment being the holes pre-drilled on the bracket are not the same
spacing as the Teleflex cable clips. So be prepared to drill new holes – which
unfortunately need to overlap the old holes – or “widen” them however you can.
Make sure you have new bits as stainless is not easy to drill, especially when
the new hole overlaps the old.
For the attachment of the throttle cable on top, the holes were in
the right location, but just needed to be correctly spaced. For the shift
attachment on the side, we found that drilling new holes about one-half inch
closer to the motor allowed for more thread in the plastic end piece of the
cable. (In the original hole position, there was only about 1/4 inch of the
cable rod threaded into the end fitting.) In picture THREE, you can see the
cable attachments. The choke and the hard rubber panel on this side of the
motor are removed. Note that the throttle is on the right, and the shift cable
on the left. (Ignore the second set of holes we drilled further in from the
throttle cable attachment. I was trying to see if moving it back a half inch –
as was necessary for the shift cable – but this moved it too far back.)
Another thing to note in picture THREE is that the Seawind bracket
is attached via the two Phillips-head screws seen below the throttle cable.
(Note that you have to buy all of these screws – they are not in the Seawind
kit. If I had thought about it, I should have noted diameter and length of
each of the screws we used. We ended up buying several sizes, and cut them off
with a hacksaw to get a precise length.) I used stainless steel washers,
separated from the aluminum motor with nylon washers – to prevent corrosion. I
layed a couple of sections of electrical tape on the top of the bracket that
comes in contact with the motor, to prevent corrosion as well. Nylock nuts
were used on all screws. Also, you can see that I used black heat shrink
tubing to seal the connection of the stainless cable tube to the cable end
fitting. On my cables (old), these tubes had separated and left wire exposed.
Hopefully this will limit the exposure of the wire section to salt water.
The black round fitting that is about two inches to the right of
the throttle cable – with a rubber cap to the right of that – is the new Yamaha
fuel line fitting. They are now round, and you twist on the hose. The short
black hose on the left side of the motor is the flush hose. I eventually
extended these up so they could be accessed easier. (More on that later.) The
water hose end fitting normally attaches to the motor, but this bracket was
removed as it was in the way of the new shift cable placement. Note that this
end fitting must stay connected when the motor is run, or else the water will
go overboard and not cool the powerhead.
Unfortunately I do not have better pictures of the shift connection
installed. You can see the fitting in the middle of the SEAWIND KIT picture
earlier. Probably the best piece of the Seawind kit is this short stainless
steel arm that attaches to the shift axle running across the motor. If you
look closely at picture THREE, this axle runs below the attachment point for
the throttle. You can see the shiny stainless fitting coming in from the left
side of the motor, and held in place with a hex-head screw. Whereas the Yamaha
kit has this shift lever made in plastic, and turned up, the Seawind kit
features it in stainless, and turned down. A rubber cap is removed from the
side of the motor, and the Seawind piece is slid onto the shift axle, and
fastened with a bolt with metric threads. The bolt threads into the axle.
This is really the only metric bolt you will need to buy (unless you live
outside of the US). Oh, and one more thing I did before sliding on the Seawind
shift lever was to put two o-rings on the piece. There is not enough space for
them to fit between the lever and the motor, but on the outside they can act as
a bit of a guard to limit water splashing in between the shift piece and the
motor.
If you look at picture FOUR, you can see the choke installed, and
the hard rubber panel at the base of the choke pull in place as well. This
panel needs to be drilled so that the throttle cable can fit thru it. This
takes a lot of measurement to determine where to drill, and a 1/4 in hole. (I
stretched tape across the opening, straightened a coat hanger, and ran it thru
the Teleflex cable bracket to the throttle end fitting to see where the hole
should be located to line up.) The rubber drills very easily. I spaced up a
bit size because a 1/4 inch bit yielded a hole smaller than 1/4 inch. After
you drill the hole, take a sharp knife and cut a slit from the hole down thru
the bottom of the rubber panel. This makes it easy to put on without having to
remove the cable. The slit closes up watertight when the metal piece on top is
bolted on. Near the bottom of picture FOUR you can see three holes in the
bracket that were not used. The outside empty holes were the original ones.
The middle hole is one drilled to fit the Teleflex clamp. The screws shown are
for the final placement of the Teleflex clamp (which is on the other side, and
cannot be seen in this picture.) So you might want to check your shift cable
length before drilling any new holes.
As the shift lever is not turned down, whereas the old motor lever
was turned up, the next step required is to disassembly the Teleflex
shifter/throttle control and move the shift cable to the other side of the cam.
I removed the hose clamps in the starboard hull closet below, and tugged on
the cables to try to get some excess so that the Teleflex assembly could be
pulled up to access the cable attachments. This is where things got bloody as
the internals of this mechanism have a host of sharp parts. Also be careful
that you don’t pull the assembly so far as to break the soldered wire
connection that tells the key switch the motor is in neutral, and motor circuit
allowed to start. This is easy to figure out once you see the assembly
internals. It would probably help to have someone below helping, but not
necessary (as I did mine myself). Note that if you don’t do this step, when
you move the shift forward, the motor will go into reverse. As I had both an
old and new motor installed at the same time. I had to disassemble this
assembly twice. I thought about doing both sides at the same time when doing
the initial, port motor installation, but didn’t think anyone test driving the
old motor would be impressed by it running backwards!
So that finishes the heavy stuff. Earlier I pointed out the water
flush hose. I removed the end fitting and added a 5/16 inch barb-to-barb
connector and about two feet of Teleflex 5/16 inch fuel hose to extend the
end fitting up to a reachable level. See picture FIVE – FLUSH HOSE. I also
enclosed this hose in the corrugated plastic tubing that is normally used to
encase wires and prevent them from chafe. You don’t want this piece of hose to
chafe thru, as your cooling water will be dumped overboard. I screwed the end
fitting to a small piece of high-density plastic. The screws come from the
back of the plate, into the plastic fitting – so you will need to countersink
them. Then I screwed the plate to the motor box with 1/2 inch long screws. Be
careful here as the motor box is very thin and you can easily drill thru it.
(Of course, if you don’t care about screw heads showing, you can always just
drill thru the box and screw into the plastic fitting!) I zip-tied the tubing
to the motor bracket to keep it from chafing on the motor or the shift cable.
It probably needs an additional clamp added to keep it from falling into the
motor well when disconnected. Only other thing to note in this picture is that
the fuel hoses are fairly long, so we can lead them back and hook them into a
special cap on the Honda generator. When they are hooked to the outboard,
there is a loop of fuel line velcro’d on the wall.
Ok, so you probably noticed from picture FIVE that the footprint of
these new motors is very much smaller than the older motors. Plus Yamaha
listed the old 9.9’s at 116 lbs, but I suspect that was closer to 120 lbs based
on hefting them off and on the boat a few times. We weighed the new motor with
the tiller removed, and it came in at exactly 100 lbs. It is noticeably
lighter to carry than the old ones. Compare picture SIX to SEVEN to see the
difference in size.
Included in the Seawind is also a bracket to keep the motor from
turning. Both the old and new motors have the same friction lever that keeps
the motor from turning when engage, and allows it to turn when loosened. As
this still works on both of my old motors, and I like the ability to turn them
when working on them, I did not install the Seawind brackets. It also appeared
that the friction levers had to be disassembled on the motors to install the
Seawind brackets. If motor turning ever becomes an issue, I will pull the
motors and install them.
To-date, I installed the port motor, but had a bit of delay on the
starboard motor installation as I left the old one in place while trying to
sell it. (Generally people want to see them run before purchase!) A week ago
the old motor sold, and I installed the new starboard motor as well. Due to
other commitments, I have only run each of them a few minutes, flushed them,
and left the boat. The new motors are very much quieter, but “wiggle” much
more than the older motors. If it was a two-stroke, I would say this is from
break-in, but not sure about four-stroke. The previous owner replaced the wood
on the starboard motor bracket with plastic Star Board, and as the port wood
was showing some cracking, I did the same to the port side when we had the
engines off. I also replaced all of the board attachment screws as they had
evidence of crevice corrosion, and it was very easy to do when the motors were
off. I also put new bolts in to screw the motors to the brackets, and note the
hole placement is not the same for the new motors – so these have to be
drilled. (One of those 12 inch long, 1/4 inch diameter bits does this easily.)
I have purchased new hour meters and tachometers, and hope to install all of
this in the next week or two. We are planning a long trip in early August, so
would be good to get some of the motor break-in done prior to departure.
Michael Zotzky
<Four.jpg><One - Seawind Kit.jpg><Seven - New Motor.jpg><Six - Old
Motor.jpg><Three.jpg><Two.jpg><Five - Flush Hose.jpg>
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