When I got my Technica, most of the movements were a bit stiff or frozen. I
suspect it had spent many years ope, just sitting on a shelf. I gradually
cleaned it using very small quantities of petrol, terps, acetone and whatever
other likely solvents came to mind. It took a while. I then lubricated it with
wd 40, which, at that time, I thought of as a magical universal lubricant.
It now works fine, but I’m not sure that I would adopt that she cavalier
attitude to the restoration as I did back then. (it was pre-internet… when you
still had t use books to find things out!)
Best
Laurence Cuffe
On 10 Apr 2019, at 20:21, mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Well thought about a light bulb, but since there is a light at the end of the
scope, I thought that might be better. If there is a problem, I can send it
back. Its on the agenda for tonight.
Ken in all honesty, don't remember where I saw neetsfoot oil, probably a
website somewhere. That's why I asked here. What is puzzling me is you
mentioned an internal frame. Is the frame you are referring to the frame at
the end of the bellows where it glues to the camera's body? I don't feel
anything solid anywhere else. As I extend the bellows, I can feel the folds
opening and closing, but I don't feel any sort of structure there. Am I
missing something?
Also the up down, and left right adjustments seem a bit tight. Bellows in
and out seems right. Do these need any lubrication from time to time, and if
so with what? My instincts tell me this might correct itself with use. I
also know that adding lubricant where it doesn't belong can cause HUGE
problems. Rotating back is a big plus.
For the experienced Technika 3 users it took me a while to figure out what
those four knobs did at the back of the camera. When I did, I even laughed
at myself. Unless the bellows is full of holes, I think it will be a fun new
experience
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: update on new venture into Large format
From: Zack Widup <w9sz.zack@xxxxxxxxx <mailto:w9sz.zack@xxxxxxxxx>>
Date: Wed, April 10, 2019 7:27 am
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
What I do is set the camera up on a tripod at night in a room that can be
made completely dark; extend the bellows fully; get a small light bulb; turn
out the lights and let my eyes get adjusted to the dark. Then put the bulb
inside the bellows and move it around. Look from the outside to see if any
light is coming through.
Fred Picker said he had a Chinese-made camera to test out once. He did this
and the camera bellows lit up like a Chinese lantern. Not just a few
pinholes, the whole thing!
Zack
On Tue, Apr 9, 2019 at 11:58 PM <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<mailto:mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>> wrote:
Well the camera arrived today. My first impressions are positive. First,
and my biggest concern is that it does not appear to be the original bellows.
That is the good thing. The bad news is that I am not sure what material is
used in its construction. I think its leather, but its so thin I am not
totally sure. What would be the indicator.
IF its leather, it probably should be conditioned. My first two options, and
there may be others, would be either mink oil or neetsfoot oil, both of which
I think I have on hand. The concern is too much of a good thing can be just
as bad as none at times. What's the best way to apply and remove excess on
something that is pleated? Have no idea how fragile this stuff might be, but
it doesn't seem like it will fall apart in my hand. If its something else I
need, then its not a problem.
I am going to check for pinhole leaks tomorrow night. My first plan is to
take a bore scope with a light on the end of a camera. Not only will I be
able to see the light, if any goes through the bellows, the camera on the
end, should give me a good look at the insides.. If there is a better way,
please respond.
The extra lens board I bought for the wrong size shutter has an interesting
possibility I had in the back of my mind. By covering it with a piece of
paper, cardboard or maybe even very thin plywood or sheet metal, I could turn
that lensboard into a pin hole camera. Anyone ever done that?
For the record, the lensboard does have an indexing notch. That should be
easy enough to handle, but there is a circle in it that appears to be a part
of some sort of light trap around the lens mechanism. If I used flat sheet
metal, would it still work without damaging the camera? I actually could
probably machine the circle in the metal IF its important, but it would be a
genuine pain in the posterior. Unless its needed and worth the effort, I
would pass.
As far as overall impression of the camera, those that said it was heavy,
they were right. It's a bit heavier than expected, but definitely workable.
Seems to be built like a tank. In the age of constant advancement, its also
nice to see something that is as old as I am that still functions much as it
did decades ago. What I am also in marvel of is guys that used these to
cover press assignments.
Last thing is a bit of a hassle for a while. Once a sheet of film is
exposed, I used to always just put it back in the box from which it came till
I was ready to process it. Trouble is I have too many holders and too few
boxes. Is there something else that is both light tight, ideally light and
simple to use that will work? Ideally it would be cheap too, but cheap and
Large format don't go hand in hand very often.
Id be interested to know what year and more about the camera I actually got.
A serial number may be on here somewhere, but I haven't found it yet.
Thanks again for any help
Mark 73
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