Where did you see neatsfoot oil was good for a bellows? It has the possibility
of softening the glue that binds the inner layer and ribs to the outer layer.
Use Lexsol. Wipe on let it sit over night and wipe off in the morning. Mink oil
can cause delamination too. Can you send me a close up in focus image of the
material? See my site
www.deardorffcameras.0catch.com
From:
Ken Hough
Photographic Repair
Specializing in all Deardorff products
www.deardorffcameras.0catch.com
219-406-6849
On Apr 9, 2019, at 11:57 PM, <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
<mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Well the camera arrived today. My first impressions are positive. First,
and my biggest concern is that it does not appear to be the original bellows.
That is the good thing. The bad news is that I am not sure what material is
used in its construction. I think its leather, but its so thin I am not
totally sure. What would be the indicator.
IF its leather, it probably should be conditioned. My first two options, and
there may be others, would be either mink oil or neetsfoot oil, both of which
I think I have on hand. The concern is too much of a good thing can be just
as bad as none at times. What's the best way to apply and remove excess on
something that is pleated? Have no idea how fragile this stuff might be, but
it doesn't seem like it will fall apart in my hand. If its something else I
need, then its not a problem.
I am going to check for pinhole leaks tomorrow night. My first plan is to
take a bore scope with a light on the end of a camera. Not only will I be
able to see the light, if any goes through the bellows, the camera on the
end, should give me a good look at the insides.. If there is a better way,
please respond.
The extra lens board I bought for the wrong size shutter has an interesting
possibility I had in the back of my mind. By covering it with a piece of
paper, cardboard or maybe even very thin plywood or sheet metal, I could turn
that lensboard into a pin hole camera. Anyone ever done that?
For the record, the lensboard does have an indexing notch. That should be
easy enough to handle, but there is a circle in it that appears to be a part
of some sort of light trap around the lens mechanism. If I used flat sheet
metal, would it still work without damaging the camera? I actually could
probably machine the circle in the metal IF its important, but it would be a
genuine pain in the posterior. Unless its needed and worth the effort, I
would pass.
As far as overall impression of the camera, those that said it was heavy,
they were right. It's a bit heavier than expected, but definitely workable.
Seems to be built like a tank. In the age of constant advancement, its also
nice to see something that is as old as I am that still functions much as it
did decades ago. What I am also in marvel of is guys that used these to
cover press assignments.
Last thing is a bit of a hassle for a while. Once a sheet of film is
exposed, I used to always just put it back in the box from which it came till
I was ready to process it. Trouble is I have too many holders and too few
boxes. Is there something else that is both light tight, ideally light and
simple to use that
Well the camera arrived today. My first impressions are positive. First,
and my biggest concern is that it does not appear to be the original bellows.
That is the good thing. The bad news is that I am not sure what material is
used in its construction. I think its leather, but its so thin I am not
totally sure. What would be the indicator.
IF its leather, it probably should be conditioned. My first two options, and
there may be others, would be either mink oil or neetsfoot oil, both of which
I think I have on hand. The concern is too much of a good thing can be just
as bad as none at times. What's the best way to apply and remove excess on
something that is pleated? Have no idea how fragile this stuff might be, but
it doesn't seem like it will fall apart in my hand. If its something else I
need, then its not a problem.
I am going to check for pinhole leaks tomorrow night. My first plan is to
take a bore scope with a light on the end of a camera. Not only will I be
able to see the light, if any goes through the bellows, the camera on the
end, should give me a good look at the insides.. If there is a better way,
please respond.
The extra lens board I bought for the wrong size shutter has an interesting
possibility I had in the back of my mind. By covering it with a piece of
paper, cardboard or maybe even very thin plywood or sheet metal, I could turn
that lensboard into a pin hole camera. Anyone ever done that?
For the record, the lensboard does have an indexing notch. That should be
easy enough to handle, but there is a circle in it that appears to be a part
of some sort of light trap around the lens mechanism. If I used flat sheet
metal, would it still work without damaging the camera? I actually could
probably machine the circle in the metal IF its important, but it would be a
genuine pain in the posterior. Unless its needed and worth the effort, I
would pass.
As far as overall impression of the camera, those that said it was heavy,
they were right. It's a bit heavier than expected, but definitely workable.
Seems to be built like a tank. In the age of constant advancement, its also
nice to see something that is as old as I am that still functions much as it
did decades ago. What I am also in marvel of is guys that used these to
cover press assignments.
Last thing is a bit of a hassle for a while. Once a sheet of film is
exposed, I used to always just put it back in the box from which it came till
I was ready to process it. Trouble is I have too many holders and too few
boxes. Is there something else that is both light tight, ideally light and
simple to use that will work? Ideally it would be cheap too, but cheap and
Large format don't go hand in hand very often.
Id be interested to know what year and more about the camera I actually got.
A serial number may be on here somewhere, but I haven't found it yet.
Thanks again for any help
Mark 73
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