I made the mistake of buying a couple boxes of the Melco brand black bobbin thread-and several different people, including a melco trainer-told me there is a lot of problems with it-because the 'black' thread itself is not the same quality as the white thread. Same in teeshirts-white material is a better quality because it is so visible-poorer quality material is dyed so you can't spot the flaws... Roland > From: "Rod or Sharon" <springer37@xxxxxxxxxxxx> > Reply-To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 16:03:36 -0600 > To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks > > Roland, > > "black bobbin thread"........Sharon and I use Neb brand bobbins--the > plastic sided ones and have "0" problems with them...white or black!!! > > I had to do a couple hundred caps with a 15000+ stitch edsign and used > black bobbins with them and "0" bobbin thread break with any of them.....top > thread breaks here and there but no bobbin breads with Neb black/white > bobbin thread. > > Rod > > Embroidery Cottage > Rod & Sharon Springer > Melco Trained Amaya Tech & Trainer > Design Shop Pro+ Digitizing > > Boise, ID 83713 > 208-938-3038 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Roland R. Irish III" <signman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 3:18 PM > Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks > > >> for what it's worth... >> I found when things are really going bad: >> check bobbin-too tight, stitches get too tight, start to break >> too loose, thread gets loopy and looks terrible >> crude under the tension bar, really doesn't help >> black bobbin thread-shouldn't be on the market-anyone want a couple > boxes? >> if thread break continues-I look to see where it is happening-if on > letter >> 'corners-then I check and change autostitch or short stitch >> if it is not that, then I increase material density 1 point at a time > and >> see what happens >> increase backing-add another piece, or switch to cut away >> solvy on top, definitely on pique >> decrease speed >> that's all I can tell you for now! >> good luck... >> >>> From: "image embriodery" <imageembroidery@xxxxxxxxxx> >>> Reply-To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx >>> Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 17:01:08 -0400 >>> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> >>> Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks >>> >>> So have you found the magic combination for Inner Harbor pique??? >>> I want to throw them out the window. Stitch out wonderful on scrap > fabric. >>> Stitch out is horrible on the shirt. >>> T >>> Help...thanks! >>> LuAnn >>> >>> ----- Original Message ----- >>> From: "Roland R. Irish III" <signman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >>> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> >>> Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 4:09 PM >>> Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks >>> >>> >>>> Hi Debra-another struggling beginner here... >>>> we do a lot of pique knits because we screen print on them > also-customers >>>> like the 'heavier' look to the shirt. >>>> And yes, we get the same problem-sewouts on one material don't work a > darn >>>> on another! >>>> We have managed to get by this way: >>>> solvy, YES...it's a textured material-solvy helps >>>> backing-two layers of the heaviest tear away, and sometimes if it is a >>>> logo >>>> with design and lettering around that, I"ve had to use a thicker >>>> cutaway-on >>>> a thinner pique that seems to work. One way we figured out what to do > is >>>> to >>>> compare backings on shirts and sweats my wife collects out in >>>> Arizona-every >>>> trip she comes back with another one her mother buys here-so we check > to >>>> see >>>> how THOSE were done! >>>> Thread breaks-still learning on this but getting better... >>>> density 4 or higher, double check needle 'twist' (a debate last couple >>>> weeks >>>> on how many 'degrees' of 'turn' to the needle-instead of 'straight' > out) >>>> presser foot-maximum down >>>> short stitch on or off? Still figuring out that one-sometimes it > helps, >>>> sometimes it doesn't. Same with auto density....got to be a 'standard' > in >>>> there somewhere I haven't figured out. >>>> Underlayment-center line...we learned at training to ALWAYS have >>>> centerline >>>> on, but an answer to a question I put up this morning for some real > small >>>> lettering said NO underlayment...but depends on material-worth doing a >>>> test >>>> either way! >>>> What we HAVE learned-is with rare exceptions-what sews out good on a >>>> sweatshirt, won't work on a jacket, won't work on a pique, won't work > on a >>>> hat. Each material has it's own quirks-so I end up with a separate >>>> 'design' >>>> for each one with the changes so I don't forget them! >>>> Hope this helps....should be someone in here shortly with more > technical >>>> help. >>>> I've started printing out questions and answers from here that I need > and >>>> putting them in a notebook for quick reference. That way I can make > notes >>>> right on the page as I test it out! >>>> Roland >>>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> > > > > >