[amayausers] Re: thead breaks
- From: "Roland R. Irish III" <signman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 17:18:53 -0400
for what it's worth...
I found when things are really going bad:
check bobbin-too tight, stitches get too tight, start to break
too loose, thread gets loopy and looks terrible
crude under the tension bar, really doesn't help
black bobbin thread-shouldn't be on the market-anyone want a couple boxes?
if thread break continues-I look to see where it is happening-if on letter
'corners-then I check and change autostitch or short stitch
if it is not that, then I increase material density 1 point at a time and
see what happens
increase backing-add another piece, or switch to cut away
solvy on top, definitely on pique
decrease speed
that's all I can tell you for now!
good luck...
> From: "image embriodery" <imageembroidery@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Reply-To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 17:01:08 -0400
> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks
>
> So have you found the magic combination for Inner Harbor pique???
> I want to throw them out the window. Stitch out wonderful on scrap fabric.
> Stitch out is horrible on the shirt.
> T
> Help...thanks!
> LuAnn
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roland R. Irish III" <signman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 4:09 PM
> Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks
>
>
>> Hi Debra-another struggling beginner here...
>> we do a lot of pique knits because we screen print on them also-customers
>> like the 'heavier' look to the shirt.
>> And yes, we get the same problem-sewouts on one material don't work a darn
>> on another!
>> We have managed to get by this way:
>> solvy, YES...it's a textured material-solvy helps
>> backing-two layers of the heaviest tear away, and sometimes if it is a
>> logo
>> with design and lettering around that, I"ve had to use a thicker
>> cutaway-on
>> a thinner pique that seems to work. One way we figured out what to do is
>> to
>> compare backings on shirts and sweats my wife collects out in
>> Arizona-every
>> trip she comes back with another one her mother buys here-so we check to
>> see
>> how THOSE were done!
>> Thread breaks-still learning on this but getting better...
>> density 4 or higher, double check needle 'twist' (a debate last couple
>> weeks
>> on how many 'degrees' of 'turn' to the needle-instead of 'straight' out)
>> presser foot-maximum down
>> short stitch on or off? Still figuring out that one-sometimes it helps,
>> sometimes it doesn't. Same with auto density....got to be a 'standard' in
>> there somewhere I haven't figured out.
>> Underlayment-center line...we learned at training to ALWAYS have
>> centerline
>> on, but an answer to a question I put up this morning for some real small
>> lettering said NO underlayment...but depends on material-worth doing a
>> test
>> either way!
>> What we HAVE learned-is with rare exceptions-what sews out good on a
>> sweatshirt, won't work on a jacket, won't work on a pique, won't work on a
>> hat. Each material has it's own quirks-so I end up with a separate
>> 'design'
>> for each one with the changes so I don't forget them!
>> Hope this helps....should be someone in here shortly with more technical
>> help.
>> I've started printing out questions and answers from here that I need and
>> putting them in a notebook for quick reference. That way I can make notes
>> right on the page as I test it out!
>> Roland
>>
>
>
>
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