[amayausers] Re: thead breaks
- From: DLCompton@xxxxxxx
- To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 10:53:10 EDT
Technically, how long is a short stitch?
Dorothy Compton
Bee Embroidered
_www.BeeEmbroidered.com_ (http://www.beeembroidered.com/)
(916) 635-7467
Rancho Cordova, CA
> Reply-To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 15:17:32 -0600
> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks
>
> Roland,
> The reference to "no" underlay on small lettering, I think, was in
> reference to a particular font, that being, "micro block". This font
> as with many "digitized fonts" already have some underlay built into
> them and by adding more can cause problems with the lettering by
> building up to much thread.
>
> It is my understanding that most Dak type fonts have neither underlay
> nor tie-ins or tie-offs in them and this of course goes for "true
> type" fonts as well.
>
> As to short stitches and auto stitches, a good way to see what is
> happening is to create a small letter in caps such as "L" or "E".
> Expand this up so you can see the individual stitches and then goe
> back and forth with the short stitches on and off. Look at the corners
> and you will see the addition of the short stictch function at work.
> Having the short stitch function "on" with very small letters will
> actually build up thread in the corners and may contribute to thread
> breaks.
>
> Auto stitches on the other hand is more suited to the "script" type
> fonts such as Diane Script, Cotillion etc., these are the fonts with
> the varying thicknesses from fat to narrow to ultra thin....but could
> also be aplied to some of the serrif type fonts as well with the wide
> and narrow columns.
>
> Rod Springer
>
> Embroidery Cottage
> Rod & Sharon Springer
> Melco Trained Amaya Tech & Trainer
> Design Shop Pro+ Digitizing
>
> Boise, ID 83713
> 208-938-3038
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roland R. Irish III" <signman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 2:09 PM
> Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks
>
>> Hi Debra-another struggling beginner here... we do a lot of pique knits
because we screen print on them also-customers like the 'heavier' look to the
shirt. And yes, we get the same problem-sewouts on one material don't work a
darn on another! We have managed to get by this way: solvy, YES...it's a
textured material-solvy helps backing-two layers of the heaviest tear away,
and
sometimes if it is a logo with design and lettering around that, I"ve had to
use a thicker cutaway-on a thinner pique that seems to work. One way we
figured out what to do is to compare backings on shirts and sweats my wife
collects out in Arizona-every trip she comes back with another one her mother
buys
here-so we check to see how THOSE were done! Thread breaks-still learning on
this but getting better... density 4 or higher, double check needle 'twist'
(a debate last couple weeks on how many 'degrees' of 'turn' to the
needle-instead of 'straight' out) presser foot-maximum down short stitch on
or off?
Still figuring out that one-sometimes it helps, sometimes it doesn't. Same
with
auto density....got to be a 'standard' in there somewhere I haven't figured
out. Underlayment-center line...we learned at training to ALWAYS have
centerline on, but an answer to a question I put up this morning for some real
small
lettering said NO underlayment...but depends on material-worth doing a test
either way!
>> What we HAVE learned-is with rare exceptions-what sews out good on a
sweatshirt, won't work on a jacket, won't work on a pique, won't work on a
hat.
Each material has it's own quirks-so I end up with a separate 'design' for
each one with the changes so I don't forget them! Hope this helps....should be
someone in here shortly with more technical help. I've started printing out
questions and answers from here that I need and putting them in a notebook for
quick reference. That way I can make notes right on the page as I test it
out!
>> Roland
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