[amayausers] Re: thead breaks

  • From: "pat" <post@xxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2005 21:45:31 -0400

Rod, Sharon -
I still can't believe that you can do that many stitches on a hat with an
Amaya!!!!
Pat Post
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rod or Sharon" <springer37@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 6:03 PM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks


>   Roland,
>
>   "black bobbin thread"........Sharon and I use Neb brand bobbins--the
> plastic sided ones and have "0" problems with them...white or black!!!
>
>   I had to do a couple hundred caps with a 15000+ stitch edsign and used
> black bobbins with them and "0" bobbin thread break with any of
them.....top
> thread breaks here and there but no bobbin breads with Neb black/white
> bobbin thread.
>
>   Rod
>
>   Embroidery Cottage
>   Rod & Sharon Springer
>   Melco Trained Amaya Tech & Trainer
>   Design Shop Pro+ Digitizing
>
>   Boise, ID  83713
>   208-938-3038
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: "Roland R. Irish III" <signman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>   To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>   Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 3:18 PM
>   Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks
>
>
>   > for what it's worth...
>   > I found when things are really going bad:
>   > check bobbin-too tight, stitches get too tight, start to break
>   > too loose, thread gets loopy and looks terrible
>   > crude under the tension bar, really doesn't help
>   > black bobbin thread-shouldn't be on the market-anyone want a couple
> boxes?
>   > if thread break continues-I look to see where it is happening-if on
> letter
>   > 'corners-then I check and change autostitch or short stitch
>   > if it is not that, then I increase material density 1 point at a time
> and
>   > see what happens
>   > increase backing-add another piece, or switch to cut away
>   > solvy on top, definitely on pique
>   > decrease speed
>   > that's all I can tell you for now!
>   > good luck...
>   >
>   >> From: "image embriodery" <imageembroidery@xxxxxxxxxx>
>   >> Reply-To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>   >> Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 17:01:08 -0400
>   >> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>   >> Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks
>   >>
>   >> So have you found the magic combination for Inner Harbor pique???
>   >> I want to throw them out the window. Stitch out wonderful on scrap
> fabric.
>   >> Stitch out is horrible on the shirt.
>   >> T
>   >> Help...thanks!
>   >> LuAnn
>   >>
>   >> ----- Original Message -----
>   >> From: "Roland R. Irish III" <signman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>   >> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>   >> Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 4:09 PM
>   >> Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks
>   >>
>   >>
>   >>> Hi Debra-another struggling beginner here...
>   >>> we do a lot of pique knits because we screen print on them
> also-customers
>   >>> like the 'heavier' look to the shirt.
>   >>> And yes, we get the same problem-sewouts on one material don't work
a
> darn
>   >>> on another!
>   >>> We have managed to get by this way:
>   >>> solvy, YES...it's a textured material-solvy helps
>   >>> backing-two layers of the heaviest tear away, and sometimes if it is
a
>   >>> logo
>   >>> with design and lettering around that, I"ve had to use a thicker
>   >>> cutaway-on
>   >>> a thinner pique that seems to work. One way we figured out what to
do
> is
>   >>> to
>   >>> compare backings on shirts and sweats my wife collects out in
>   >>> Arizona-every
>   >>> trip she comes back with another one her mother buys here-so we
check
> to
>   >>> see
>   >>> how THOSE were done!
>   >>> Thread breaks-still learning on this but getting better...
>   >>> density 4 or higher, double check needle 'twist' (a debate last
couple
>   >>> weeks
>   >>> on how many 'degrees' of 'turn' to the needle-instead of 'straight'
> out)
>   >>> presser foot-maximum down
>   >>> short stitch on or off? Still figuring out that one-sometimes it
> helps,
>   >>> sometimes it doesn't. Same with auto density....got to be a
'standard'
> in
>   >>> there somewhere I haven't figured out.
>   >>> Underlayment-center line...we learned at training to ALWAYS have
>   >>> centerline
>   >>> on, but an answer to a question I put up this morning for some real
> small
>   >>> lettering said NO underlayment...but depends on material-worth doing
a
>   >>> test
>   >>> either way!
>   >>> What we HAVE learned-is with rare exceptions-what sews out good on a
>   >>> sweatshirt, won't work on a jacket, won't work on a pique, won't
work
> on a
>   >>> hat. Each material has it's own quirks-so I end up with a separate
>   >>> 'design'
>   >>> for each one with the changes so I don't forget them!
>   >>> Hope this helps....should be someone in here shortly with more
> technical
>   >>> help.
>   >>> I've started printing out questions and answers from here that I
need
> and
>   >>> putting them in a notebook for quick reference. That way I can make
> notes
>   >>> right on the page as I test it out!
>   >>> Roland
>   >>>
>   >>
>   >>
>   >>
>   >
>   >
>
>
>
>


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