[amayausers] Re: thead breaks

  • From: "HK Acree" <hkacree@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 18:10:36 -0700

What material thickness are you running?

Herb
----- Original Message ----- From: "image embriodery" <imageembroidery@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 5:05 PM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks



How do I remedy thread breaks with the stitching looks like it is "denting" the shirt. I don't if that makes sense, but I guess that is the best way to describe what it looks like.
The shirt is "Inner Harbor" 100% cotton pique.
Font: Brush Script
Size: .35
center walk
auto density on
pull comp 160%
backing: 2 oz. cut-away & solvy
Just not happy with appearance. Any suggestions?
Thanks...
LuAnn
----- Original Message ----- From: "Rod or Sharon" <springer37@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 6:36 PM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks



You're right Herb, if I do anything Navy, Black, Dark Grey, etc. I always use black bobbins.
Sharon
----- Original Message ----- From: "HK Acree" <hkacree@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 4:25 PM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks



> Use Coats black bobbins all the time. No issues here.
>
> Herb
> ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rod or Sharon" <springer37@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 3:03 PM
> Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks
>
>
>> Roland,
>>
>> "black bobbin thread"........Sharon and I use Neb brand bobbins--the
>> plastic sided ones and have "0" problems with them...white or black!!!
>>
>> I had to do a couple hundred caps with a 15000+ stitch edsign and used
>> black bobbins with them and "0" bobbin thread break with any of
>> them.....top thread breaks here and there but no bobbin breads with Neb
>> black/white bobbin thread.
>>
>> Rod
>>
>> Embroidery Cottage
>> Rod & Sharon Springer
>> Melco Trained Amaya Tech & Trainer
>> Design Shop Pro+ Digitizing
>>
>> Boise, ID 83713
>> 208-938-3038
>> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Roland R. Irish III" <signman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 3:18 PM
>> Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks
>>
>>
>> > for what it's worth...
>> > I found when things are really going bad:
>> > check bobbin-too tight, stitches get too tight, start to break
>> > too loose, thread gets loopy and looks terrible
>> > crude under the tension bar, really doesn't help
>> > black bobbin thread-shouldn't be on the market-anyone want a couple
>> boxes?
>> > if thread break continues-I look to see where it is happening-if on
>> letter
>> > 'corners-then I check and change autostitch or short stitch
>> > if it is not that, then I increase material density 1 point at a time
>> and
>> > see what happens
>> > increase backing-add another piece, or switch to cut away
>> > solvy on top, definitely on pique
>> > decrease speed
>> > that's all I can tell you for now!
>> > good luck...
>> >
>> >> From: "image embriodery" <imageembroidery@xxxxxxxxxx>
>> >> Reply-To: amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> >> Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2005 17:01:08 -0400
>> >> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> >> Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks
>> >>
>> >> So have you found the magic combination for Inner Harbor pique???
>> >> I want to throw them out the window. Stitch out wonderful on scrap
>> fabric.
>> >> Stitch out is horrible on the shirt.
>> >> T
>> >> Help...thanks!
>> >> LuAnn
>> >>
>> >> ----- Original Message -----
>> >> From: "Roland R. Irish III" <signman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> >> To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>> >> Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 4:09 PM
>> >> Subject: [amayausers] Re: thead breaks
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>> Hi Debra-another struggling beginner here...
>> >>> we do a lot of pique knits because we screen print on them
>> also-customers
>> >>> like the 'heavier' look to the shirt.
>> >>> And yes, we get the same problem-sewouts on one material don't work a
>> darn
>> >>> on another!
>> >>> We have managed to get by this way:
>> >>> solvy, YES...it's a textured material-solvy helps
>> >>> backing-two layers of the heaviest tear away, and sometimes if it is
>> a
>> >>> logo
>> >>> with design and lettering around that, I"ve had to use a thicker
>> >>> cutaway-on
>> >>> a thinner pique that seems to work. One way we figured out what to do
>> is
>> >>> to
>> >>> compare backings on shirts and sweats my wife collects out in
>> >>> Arizona-every
>> >>> trip she comes back with another one her mother buys here-so we check
>> to
>> >>> see
>> >>> how THOSE were done!
>> >>> Thread breaks-still learning on this but getting better...
>> >>> density 4 or higher, double check needle 'twist' (a debate last
>> couple
>> >>> weeks
>> >>> on how many 'degrees' of 'turn' to the needle-instead of 'straight'
>> out)
>> >>> presser foot-maximum down
>> >>> short stitch on or off? Still figuring out that one-sometimes it
>> helps,
>> >>> sometimes it doesn't. Same with auto density....got to be a
>> 'standard' in
>> >>> there somewhere I haven't figured out.
>> >>> Underlayment-center line...we learned at training to ALWAYS have
>> >>> centerline
>> >>> on, but an answer to a question I put up this morning for some real
>> small
>> >>> lettering said NO underlayment...but depends on material-worth doing
>> a
>> >>> test
>> >>> either way!
>> >>> What we HAVE learned-is with rare exceptions-what sews out good on a
>> >>> sweatshirt, won't work on a jacket, won't work on a pique, won't work
>> on a
>> >>> hat. Each material has it's own quirks-so I end up with a separate
>> >>> 'design'
>> >>> for each one with the changes so I don't forget them!
>> >>> Hope this helps....should be someone in here shortly with more
>> technical
>> >>> help.
>> >>> I've started printing out questions and answers from here that I need
>> and
>> >>> putting them in a notebook for quick reference. That way I can make
>> notes
>> >>> right on the page as I test it out!
>> >>> Roland
>> >>>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>









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