Hi Debra-another struggling beginner here... we do a lot of pique knits because we screen print on them also-customers like the 'heavier' look to the shirt. And yes, we get the same problem-sewouts on one material don't work a darn on another! We have managed to get by this way: solvy, YES...it's a textured material-solvy helps backing-two layers of the heaviest tear away, and sometimes if it is a logo with design and lettering around that, I"ve had to use a thicker cutaway-on a thinner pique that seems to work. One way we figured out what to do is to compare backings on shirts and sweats my wife collects out in Arizona-every trip she comes back with another one her mother buys here-so we check to see how THOSE were done! Thread breaks-still learning on this but getting better... density 4 or higher, double check needle 'twist' (a debate last couple weeks on how many 'degrees' of 'turn' to the needle-instead of 'straight' out) presser foot-maximum down short stitch on or off? Still figuring out that one-sometimes it helps, sometimes it doesn't. Same with auto density....got to be a 'standard' in there somewhere I haven't figured out. Underlayment-center line...we learned at training to ALWAYS have centerline on, but an answer to a question I put up this morning for some real small lettering said NO underlayment...but depends on material-worth doing a test either way! What we HAVE learned-is with rare exceptions-what sews out good on a sweatshirt, won't work on a jacket, won't work on a pique, won't work on a hat. Each material has it's own quirks-so I end up with a separate 'design' for each one with the changes so I don't forget them! Hope this helps....should be someone in here shortly with more technical help. I've started printing out questions and answers from here that I need and putting them in a notebook for quick reference. That way I can make notes right on the page as I test it out! Roland