[pure-silver] Re: what is a "work print"?
- From: "Nicholas O. Lindan" <nolindan@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 8 Nov 2007 14:03:24 -0500
From: "Shannon Stoney" <shannonstoney@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
... 8x10 work print where you were figuring out the contrast,
etc, and then make a bigger print after you figured out the
contrast, but does anybody really do that?
Yes. You betcha. Yessir. Yahr.
Less money, less pollution, less waste...
"Less is the new more."
You would have to figure out the exposure all
over again for the big print
Just open the lens by
log10[(new side/old side)^2]/log10[2]
stops.
Whazza big deal?
unless you had figured out ahead of time that the exposure for
an 11x14 print is always x times the exposure for
an 8x10 print.
Dirty little secret: as you go up one size from
4x5 -> 5x7 -> 8x10 -> 11x14 -> 16x20 -> 20x30
the exposure increases by about one stop.
However, If you increased the size by 180% and changed
the aspect ratio at the same time things get messy. Even
the old log10[(new_side/old_side(^2 ... trick won't
work because the relationship of side -> area has changed.
Then you need a tape measure (and be able to remember -
is it lens to subject or negative to easel or the ratio
of extension to focal length) ... and then you need the
kid's calculator ... and soon find you need the kid to
run it. "What does this key do?"; "Third-order
Bessel functions, Dad. ((boy is he dumb))"; "Sure it's not
'Beseler' functions?"; "Sigh".
I have never learned this way of working.
The easiest solution is to use an enlarging meter and
f-stop timer.
Measure the difference in light with the
meter [the meter has a special function for
doing just this] and add the meter
reading to the f-stop timer setting. You
are done ... accurate to 1/10th of a stop
or better.
And all the dodges and burns made by the timer
automatically track the change.
I do confess I make f-stop timers and enlarging
meters http://www.darkroomautomation.com/da-main.htm
Another solution is to use an enlarging comparator
(Ilford EM-10 or an Analyte) and open/close the
lens so the same amount of light falls on the easel.
However, you are no longer using the lens at optimum
aperture and high-end lenses have fixed apertures
so the method is a non-starter.
I can make some "work prints" to send to this show.
Use 11x14 as your work print and then do a final in 8x10.
--
Nicholas O. Lindan
Darkroom Automation
A Unit of Cleveland Engineering Design, LLC
Cleveland, Ohio 44121
=============================================================================================================
To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,)
and unsubscribe from there.
Other related posts:
