That's a great idea, about using a light meter to go bigger. --shannon On Nov 8, 2007, at 12:59 PM, Sauerwald Mark wrote:
--- Shannon Stoney <shannonstoney@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:I have never learned this way of working. It's a different work flow. Does anybody on this list do that? I can make some "work prints" to send to this show. That's not aGreat question! I am anxious to see the answers that come back. For me, a work print is usually 8x10, just because I find that size big enough to see what is going on, but small enough to be able to process relatively quickly and easily. I go through far more 8x10 paper than any other size. It could be RC, but for me, is usually fiber. It is a print which has about the right, if not exactly right exposure and contrast, but may not have all of the burning/dodging the way I want it. The work print will often hang over my desk for a while (could be months) as I try to figure out where to go next with it. It does NOT have any spotting done on it, but other than that, could fall into a broad range of how happy I am with the print. As to going to larger sizes, my usual way of doing that is to start working on 8x10, with a relatively small aperture on the enlarging lens, one I have the 8x10 print the way I want it, I use an Epson light meter to measure the illumination on some part of the image, then raise the head to get the size that I want, and open the aperture to the get back to the same amount of illumination. Usually means that the first exposure on large paper is pretty close to what I had worked out on the 8x10. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com======================================================================= ====================================== To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.
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