[pure-silver] Re: what is a "work print"?
- From: Mark Blackwell <mblackwell1958@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2007 07:27:40 -0800 (PST)
What I have done that doesn't involve as much math is to get a work print that
I like. Then raise the column for the final print size. Refocus ect as if I
were going to use the larger paper, but stick another 8x10 sheet in the same
spot so I get a portion of the photo. Take a good guess at the exposure, and
check it with the 8x10 sheet. When my partial 8x10 exposure more or less
matches the work print, I am ready for the larger sizes.
EJ Neilsen <ej@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: Shannon, Yes, I
do sometimes need to ?work like that?, in that I?d make a small print and then
make big prints. I?d usually only do that if the neg was going to be hard to
print, I was low on paper, or I needed to make multiple sizes of an image for a
customer.
Light falls off with the square of the distance; Works for an enlarger just
like it does it a light in the studio. It is a bit crude, but you can use a
tape measure to measure from the neg to the easel; just don?t change your lens
to a different lens length. And if it calls for a work print, send a work
print. I think a small stack is easier to cull than a bunch of 16x20?s mixed
with 11x14, with 8x10, etc.
You can also measure the light source and adjust it as well to match the new
height. Ilford made a nice little meter for that; an EM10. The big issue to
work out is how to interpret the new image size. Small changes like an 8x10 to
11x14 are not that noticeable, but 8x10 to 20x24 will need more than just a new
exposure calculation.
Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street
Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
http://e.neilsen.home.att.net
http://ericneilsenphotography.com
Skype ejprinter
---------------------------------
From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of B P
Sent: Thursday, November 08, 2007 6:59 PM
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: what is a "work print"?
Here's the link to the info on the show and the discription of a "work
print". http://www.sohophoto.com/downloads/kk10_prospectus.pdf
I took it to mean that the paper size that we use, just can't exceed 8.5 x
11. So, I guess that the image, if it is quare, can't be bigger than an 8.5 x
8.5.
Becky Lynn
On 11/8/07, Shannon Stoney <shannonstoney@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
I am getting ready to enter a show for Holgas and pinhole cameras
called the Krappy Kamera show. It's an annual deal. The juror this
year is Jill Enfield.
Anyway, she wants to look at work prints, that is, prints no larger
than 8.5" x11". That makes sense to me for digital prints, but I don't
understand how it works for silver prints. I guess you could have an
8x10 work print where you were figuring out the contrast, etc, and then
make a bigger print after you figured out the contrast, but does
anybody really do that? You would have to figure out the exposure all
over again for the big print, unless you had figured out ahead of time
that the exposure for an 11x14 print is always x times the exposure for
an 8x10 print.
I have never learned this way of working. It's a different work flow.
Does anybody on this list do that?
I can make some "work prints" to send to this show. That's not a
problem. But I'm wondering: is this a more efficient way to work than
starting at the size you really want, with test strips, etc?
--shannon
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