Hi Don,Just looked up "desulfovirga".... don't have my "Basic Introduction to Advanced Geomorphology" nor, "Genetic Morphing of the Syntrophobacter Fumaroxidans", by my computer, so I can't really make a statement at this very singular and unique point in time... I think that that point in time just passed by... :) :) :)
But seriously... Hypo1 would definetely have a higher silver content, since at least 40-50 prints passed through it in it's first life as Hypo2 and then, second life as Hypo1.
Something just clicked. One variable did change. The Saran wrap. Last week, I asked my wife to pick up some non-cling, least possible, generic "saran wrap" when she stopped at the pharmacy after classes. It's different, to the touch, from the previous one. Does each company that makes "saran wrap" have a slightly different composition????
I've always wondered about the containers and trays that I use. How chemically neutral are they? Are some better than others??
Regards, Bogdan Don Sweet wrote:
I really don't know, but is it possible that a plasticiser in the saran wrap is affecting, or being affected by, the presence of thiosulfate in Hypo 2? If the same thing does not happen to Hypo1, that could perhaps be explained by the higher silver concentration in Hypo1. I fooled around in Google and the word "desulfovirga" came up. Don Sweet----- Original Message ----- From: "Bogdan Karasek" <bkarasek@xxxxxxxxxxxx>To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Friday, December 04, 2009 4:33 PM Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Problem with 2 tray hypo (fixer).Hi all, Just to add to the context and recap. Nothing has changed in my procedure, same for two years, and this never happened before, when Hypo1 started to show a slight cloudiness when a few drops of Hypochek was dropped in, I would dump it and replace it with Hypo2 which becomes Hypo1 and mix a new batch Sodium Thiosulfate to make Hypo2. By the book. The last few btaches, nothing changed, the chemicals came from the same shipment and the same source of distilled water, same procedure except that last week, Hypo2 turned to an amber colour after spending the night under Saran wrap. The day before, about 20 prints had gone through Hypo1 and Hypo2. Overnight, Hypo2 turns amber yet Hypo1 is still clear despite being a Hypo2 in a previous cycle. I dump the amber Hypo2 and mix a fresh batch of Hypo2, Hypo1 stays the same, put about 10 prints through both, cover both Saran Wrap for the night and the next morning, Hypo2 is amber coloured. Never happened before and now, twice in a row with an unchanged procedure that I have been doing for several years. Twice with the Hypo2 but never with the Hypo1???? I am flumuxed, to say the least. Other than the dektol, Stop, and a holding tray filled with water next to Hypo2, I don't see any other source of contamination. If I have some time tomorrow, I'll do the tests that Richard proposed to see if Hypo2 is still good. But still, only 10 8x10's went though Hypo2, so why wouldn't it still be good??? Just a question... if it is sulphurized Hypo, where would the sulphur have come from? There is none in the darkroom. And I'll mix my next batch with sodium sulfide. And I will report back with the results. Thanks all, Bogdan In Montreal, Scratching his head Richard Knoppow wrote:----- Original Message ----- From: "Bogdan Karasek"<bkarasek@xxxxxxxxxxxx>To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Thursday, December 03, 2009 3:02 PM Subject: [pure-silver] Problem with 2 tray hypo (fixer).Hello, I need some advice/clarification regarding my fixer. When printing fiber paper, I use the two tray method for my fixer and I mix it myself using Sodium Thiosulfate in distilled water. When tray I is exhausted, I do the usual routine, move the hypo in tray II to tray I and mix a fresh gallon of hypo for tray II. Recently, a phenomenon has happened for which I have no explanation. If I am doing intensive work over several days, I leave the the chemicals, Stop and Hypo (developer gets changed everyday) in their trays overnight but each tray is covered with Saran Wrap to prevent oxidation. Never had a problem until last week. Overnight, Hypo II changed colour to a light amber (see photo) whereas hypo I did not. I checked hypo II for exhaustion using Edwal's Hypochek and everything was clear. As a precautionary measure, I mixed fresh hypo for tray II, covered it with Saran Wrap at the end on the evening and next morning, tray II has the amber colour whereas tray I is clear. I checked tray II with the Hypochek and again, no evidence of exhaustion. Since an image is worth a 1000 words, what you see in the photo are the contents of tray I on the left, clear, and tray II on the right, amber coloured. By the way, the developer is Dektol 1:2 and the stop is Kodak Indicator Stop Bath. Nothing has changed in my procedure, same trays for the past number of years, always mix chemicals with distilled water. Anybody have an explanation? This has never happened to me before.http://s873.photobucket.com/albums/ab296/bkarasek/?action=view¤t=Hypo12-01.jpgCheers, bogdanI don't have an explanation but if you are using plain hypo you should be adding some sodium sulfite to it to preserve the thiosulfate. Where there is no acid about 5 grams per liter is enough although more won't hurt. Plan hypo oxidizes pretty fast without the preservative. If this happened only once I suspect something got spilled into the tray. Hypo-Check shows dissolved silver as a precipitate but will not show other problems such as sulphurized hypo. I have some question about its reliability since the dilution is unknown so the threshold of showing the precipitate is also unknown. Hypo can be checked indirectly by using a residual silver test on a scrap of paper or film fixed in it. The simplest test is a 1:9 dilution of Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner. However, this fails if there is much hypo in the material so it should be well washed before testing. The standard test is a solution of sodium sulfide but the Selenium toner works as well providing the material is washed and the test solution does not smell and lasts longer than the sulfide solution. The test is made in exactly the same way as the sulfide test, place a drop of solution on the emulsion in a clear area and allow it to sit for about two minutes. Then rinse off and look for any staining. Properly fixed film or paper should show no stain. If there is silver halide present there will be a yellow or brown stain. The Kodak Hypo Estimator comparitor works for the Selenium test as well as the sulfide test but there really should be no stain at all. -- Richard Knoppow Los Angeles, CA, USA dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx============================================================================ =================================To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4658 (20091203) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com============================================================================ =================================To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to youraccount (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there. __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 4659 (20091203) __________ The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. http://www.eset.com
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