[rollei_list] Re: New to the list

  • From: "Richard Knoppow" <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 11:03:24 -0700


----- Original Message ----- From: "CheshireCCat" <cheshireccat@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 9:33 AM
Subject: [rollei_list] New to the list


Long time viewer and first time poster. Had a rollei 3.5 E for a couple months now. I've taken a dozen rolls and haven't developed a single one yet. Nowhere around here to develop 120 and it's been a very long time since my photography classes in high school and college. I picked up my camera off of ebay for $400 which I don't think is a terrible price and the seller claimed that it had a recent CLA in a place in Florida. (don't have the camera with me this minute so I can't say where exactly. So I'm still not sure how well it works. But it's fun to take pictures. I've talked to a few people and I have been getting sent from one place to another to have the meter repaired. The needle just bounces around and doesn't care what kind of light there is. I would like to find a place to get this meter fixed or replaced. I see meters n ebay occasionally, but they are all for 3.5F and from what I understand, they will not work together. I have heard that the meters are notoriously unreliable, but I would just like everything to work right off the bat, so if anyone has any ideas where I can get
the meter repaired or replaced, I'm all ears.

J.D.

I haven't searched around for used darkroom equipment lately but not long ago it was going for a song and easy to find. You need very little to develop roll film, even color. A bit more for contact printing (practical for 2-1/4 X 2-1/4) and more for enlarging.
    For developing B&W roll film you need:
A tank, I recommend the stainless steel kind or any tank that is agitated by inverting it.
A pair of film clips, spring clothes pins will do.
A funnel (from the grocery, to pour solutions back into the bottles) Some bottles (plastic ones will do, use high density plastic). Packaged developer (D-76 is always reliable but Xtol gives somewhat better performance). Stop bath (distilled vinegar diluted to half strength will do). Fixer, you can use rapid fixer, which comes as a liquid concentrate, or Kodak fixer, which is a powder. The powder fixer takes about twice as long to fix. Fixer should really be done in two successive baths but more on that later. A wash aid, you don't really need this but it cuts wash time from half an hour to five minutes. Washing can be done by just putting the tank under a running faucet but its better if you have a length of hose to stick into the center of the tank. Wetting agent like Kodak Photo-Flo, this is used as a final rinse to eliminate water spots. A better wetting agent can be made by mixing the Photo-Flo with rubbing alcohol (NOT the kind with flavorings like Oil of Wintergreen in it) as follows: To one liter of water add one ounce of 70% rubbing alcohol and half a cap (2.5ml) of Photo-Flow. Soak the washed film in this for two minutes and hang up to dry without squeegeeing.
You need a dry, clean place to dry the film.
If you don't have a dark place to load the tanks you need a changing bag, they are not expensive. For temporary use one can even use a heavy overcoat by wrapping it around and sticking your arms through the sleeves. In fact, thats how changing bags originated. Lets see what else? A good thermometer and some sort of timer preferably with a sweep second hand although a digital timer that counts seconds is OK. A watch will do although a settable timer is a convenience. That's all. Put the film in the tank, pour in the developer, agitate as directed and develop as in the charts for the particular film. Follow the instructions and you will get good, printable negatives. Depending on how good a shopper you are we are talking about maybe $20 to $50 not counting chemicals. If you decide to undertake this folks on this list can help with any problems or questions you have.

--
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, CA, USA
dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
---
Rollei List

- Post to rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx

- Subscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'subscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org

- Unsubscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'unsubscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org

- Online, searchable archives are available at
//www.freelists.org/archives/rollei_list

Other related posts: