[amayausers] Re: Needle Breaks
- From: "Linen Barn" <linen@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2005 09:54:57 -0800
Speaking of wings, they are the first thing to come off every time I get a
new machine. My caps sew way better without the wings. I sew around 2500 -
3000 caps a month. Not sure if removing the wings effects the warranty but
all of my machines are out of warranty. I am by no means saying you should
do this or it works for everyone but I tried this for the first time when my
4 head wouldn't sew caps well about 5 years ago and have not used the wings
since.
Aaron Sargent
The Linen Barn
linen@xxxxxxxxxxx
Medford, Oregon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Garber" <agraphic2@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 8:50 AM
Subject: [amayausers] Re: Needle Breaks
> Herb,
> I think your .02 sounds good to me. What are these wings you speak of?
> I will try and stabilize the hat more. I don't think I had the sides
> clipped in assuming the structure of the hat would be enough to keep it
> from moving. It also was flagging a little up and down.
>
> I have to sew the same design on a unstructured hat and I don't imagine
> I will have the same problems.
>
> Mike
>
> HK Acree wrote:
>
> >Mike,
> >My first thought on this is that your wings may need adjusting. It sounds
> >like as the cap is sewing you are beginning to pull the fabric and as the
> >needle penetrates it is also being pulled causing it to strike the plate.
I
> >sewed some Flex Fits a while back and swore them off as far as trying
them
> >again any time soon. They are way to stretchy for my liking. Hooping was
a
> >pain and my quality was junk. Trace your design and watch closely as it
gets
> >to the area you are having problems with. If you see any movement in the
> >fabric try to adjust your wings to eliminate it. Also look to be sure the
> >bill is not contacting the back of the needle carriage. This will also
cause
> >the fabric to move and cause problems. When I hoop structured caps I make
it
> >a habit to bend the bill back towards the top a bit before I hoop it, I
find
> >this lets the cap relax and lay closer to the needle plate, especially
near
> >the bill of the cap. This may or may not help you to get the fabric down
> >close to the plate. Go forward in your stitch count to the place where
you
> >are having problems and check how far the material presses down before
> >hitting the plate. If it is more than about 1/8 inch it is too much. (In
my
> >humble opinion). When you hoop it try to find a way to get this part of
the
> >cap to lay down some more, a little tug here or there? One thing I would
try
> >would be full backing. My thought here is that as stretchy as these are,
> >"maybe", if I get the sides stabilized so they wont stretch around as
much
> >it may keep the front from wiggling as well. I may also be out of my mind
> >but there's my $.02 worth.
> >
> >Herb
> >Royal Embroidery
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Mike Garber" <agraphic2@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >To: "amayausers list" <amayausers@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2005 7:31 AM
> >Subject: [amayausers] Needle Breaks
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>I digitized a hat logo that is just text. I'm sewing a Flex Fit
> >>Structured hat with 75/11 sharp needles.
> >>The stitch length is about 1/4" along the top of the hat (text is 2"
> >>tall and hooped as close to the bottom as possible).
> >>I keep getting needle breaks on the top of the design. Raised needle
> >>plate is in and pressure foot is adjusted 2.5 clicks from top. No
> >>backing.
> >>Material thickness is 13. I did get a break on the fill outline under
> >>the text but I suspect the needle was already bent from the longer
> >>stitches on the text.
> >>
> >>I am going to try it on the other machine tonight to see if I still get
> >>breaks unless anyone can tell if I'm doing something wrong.
> >>
> >>Thanks,
> >>Mike
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
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