[pure-silver] Re: counter on Nikon FG not working
- From: Bob Younger <ryounger@xxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2014 04:18:08 -0700
Tim,
I'm with Chuck. That was great, and well worth saving for that "someday."
Thanks,
Bob Younger
On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 3:00 AM, Speedy <speedgraphic@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Tim,
> That was the best description of how to replace seals that I have ever
> read!
>
> Chuck
>
> > Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2014 21:37:25 -0500
> > From: tundra@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> > To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: [pure-silver] Re: counter on Nikon FG not working
> >
> > On 06/24/2014 08:23 PM, Speedy wrote:
> > > Janet,
> > >
> > > I apologize for not getting back to you sooner. I looked and it
> appears that I
> > > sold my FG last year when I was thinning the heard...
> > >
> > > I took a look at an FE2 that I still have. It was a camera of about
> the same
> > > vintage as the FG.
> > >
> > > On the FE2 the frame counter reset is just slightly to the right of
> the shutter
> > > cock located on the body in the light seal channel. There is a slight
> > > protrusion on the camera back that matches up in position with the
> reset. The
> > > back holds the tab in and allows the frame counter to advance. When
> the pressure
> > > on the tab is released the counter is reset. You might be able to
> "excercise"
> > > the reset with a small screwdriver and get it freed up.
> > >
> > > Good Luck!
> > >
> > > Chuck
> >
> > I rehab old cameras for fun and have a number of gentle suggestions I've
> > learned over the years:
> >
> > - If the camera has never had its seals replaced, it's time. Kits are
> available
> > on eBay for $10 for each camera. IMPORTANT: When removing the old seals
> > always point the camera in such a way that - as the old seal is removed
> - it
> > falls *away from the camera*. That is, either it falls away from the
> shutter
> > curtain if you are doing the back seal or away from the mirror if you're
> > replacing the mirror bumper.
> >
> > - Once you've removed the old seal as best as you can, clean the surfaces
> > where it rested *completely*. This is a gooey mess, but the idea is to
> > take a makeup pad, a Q-tip, or a Pec Pad wrapped around a toothpick to
> > thoroughly clean all the old crud from the grooves or surfaces where the
> > old seals sat. Put a few drops of lighter fluid (naptha) on the cleaning
> > pad which will help lift the crud away faster. Same rules as above -
> > always holding the camera in a direction so as nothing falls toward it.
> >
> > - Once the seal surfaces are clean, take a makeup pad with a goodly
> amount
> > of rubbing alcohol on it to remove any remaining naptha residue.
> >
> > - At this point, the film counter reset tab should be externally clean.
> > Most camera problems do not happen because of lack of lubrication, they
> > happen because of dirt. We want to get a drop or so of naptha *down
> > by the reset tab*. The easiest way to do this is to take a pipe
> > cleaner and get it middling wet with naptha and use it to drip a bit down
> > around the tab. Then work the tab vigorously. LESS is better here. You
> > don't want the internals of the camera loaded with naptha. When complete,
> > wipe clean with alcohol as before.
> >
> > - Now install the new seals.
> >
> > - Finally, wipe the pressure plate and transport rollers with a makeup
> pad
> > slightly damp with alcohol to get rid of any residues. Then use canned
> > air to knock out anything still stuck in the body.
> >
> >
> > I have "healed" many cameras and messed up mechanisms this way. It
> requires
> > patience and using the Less Is More philosophy with naptha. Better do do
> a
> > complete cleaning with one small drop, dry off with alcohol, and then
> repeat,
> > than to dump a gallon of naptha into your camera.
> >
> > I can almost bet there is nothing seriously wrong with Janet's camera.
> > If you REALLY get desperate, I can recommend a good - almost retired now
> -
> > repair guy but it's going to cost more than the camera is likely worth.
> >
> > BTW, be prepared for a big mess and DO NOT do this on newspapers alone
> which
> > will just turn into a big sloggy mess. I like to do this on a large piece
> > of old mat board or other similar density and thickness cardboard. You
> > WILL get gooey and you WILL get some on your clothes so don't wear
> anything
> > you care about.
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > Tim Daneliuk tundra@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > PGP Key: http://www.tundraware.com/PGP/
> >
> >
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