[pure-silver] Re: counter on Nikon FG not working

  • From: Tim Daneliuk <tundra@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2014 21:37:25 -0500

On 06/24/2014 08:23 PM, Speedy wrote:
Janet,

I apologize for not getting back to you sooner.  I looked and it appears that I
sold my FG last year when I was thinning the heard...

I took a look at an FE2 that I still have.  It was a camera of about the same
vintage as the FG.

On the FE2 the frame counter reset is just slightly to the right of the shutter
cock located on the body in the  light seal channel.  There is a slight
protrusion on the camera back that matches up in position with the reset.  The
back holds the tab in and allows the frame counter to advance. When the pressure
on the tab is released the counter is reset.  You might be able to "excercise"
the reset with a small screwdriver and get it freed up.

Good Luck!

Chuck

I rehab old cameras for fun and have a number of gentle suggestions I've
learned over the years:

- If the camera has never had its seals replaced, it's time.  Kits are available
  on eBay for $10 for each camera.   IMPORTANT:  When removing the old seals
  always point the camera in such a way that - as the old seal is removed - it
  falls *away from the camera*.  That is, either it falls away from the shutter
  curtain if you are doing the back seal or away from the mirror if you're
  replacing the mirror bumper.

- Once you've removed the old seal as best as you can, clean the surfaces
  where it rested *completely*.  This is a gooey mess, but the idea is to
  take a makeup pad, a Q-tip, or a Pec Pad wrapped around a toothpick to
  thoroughly clean all the old crud from the grooves or surfaces where the
  old seals sat.  Put a few drops of lighter fluid (naptha) on the cleaning
  pad which will help lift the crud away faster.  Same rules as above -
  always holding the camera in a direction so as nothing falls toward it.

- Once the seal surfaces are clean, take a makeup pad with a goodly amount
  of rubbing alcohol on it to remove any remaining naptha residue.

- At this point, the film counter reset tab should be externally clean.
  Most camera problems do not happen because of lack of lubrication, they
  happen because of dirt.  We want to get a drop or so of naptha *down
  by the reset tab*.   The easiest way to do this is to take a pipe
  cleaner and get it middling wet with naptha and use it to drip a bit down
  around the tab.  Then work the tab vigorously.  LESS is better here. You
  don't want the internals of the camera loaded with naptha.  When complete,
  wipe clean with alcohol as before.

- Now install the new seals.

- Finally, wipe the pressure plate and transport rollers with a makeup pad
  slightly damp with alcohol to get rid of any residues.  Then use canned
  air to knock out anything still stuck in the body.


I have "healed" many cameras and messed up mechanisms this way.  It requires
patience and using the Less Is More philosophy with naptha. Better do do a complete cleaning with one small drop, dry off with alcohol, and then repeat,
than to dump a gallon of naptha into your camera.

I can almost bet there is nothing seriously wrong with Janet's camera.
If you REALLY get desperate, I can recommend a good - almost retired now -
repair guy but it's going to cost more than the camera is likely worth.

BTW, be prepared for a big mess and DO NOT do this on newspapers alone which will just turn into a big sloggy mess. I like to do this on a large piece
of old mat board or other similar density and thickness cardboard.  You
WILL get gooey and you WILL get some on your clothes so don't wear anything
you care about.


--
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Tim Daneliuk     tundra@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
PGP Key:         http://www.tundraware.com/PGP/

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