Thanks for the nice comment on my photos Dennis, and for the good suggestions. I may try your proposed methodology. I'm now off early tomorrow AM to the Bristlecone Pine Forest in the White Mountains for a few days. Wish me luck! Richard S. On 10/3/07, dpurdy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dpurdy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > > Thanks for the reply Dennis. Ok, so assuming it may be due to agitation > > what technique do people recommend? I try to invert and twist at about > > the > > same time, about 4-5 times every 30 seconds, sometimes every minute. Am > I > > over-agitating perhaps and creating too much flow on the edges of the > > reels? > > Should I not invert and instead just sort of twirl? > > > > Richard S. > > First I should tell you that I am a fan of your work and have your Flikr > stream bookmarked to check up on your new work now and then. I have never > noticed that you have a processing problem. Perhaps you are going to > great lengths to get rid of it in the jpegs. I do see it in the Albany > shore sea scape. > > I have processed an awful lot of film and do to this day process for > several other photographers beside myself. I spent an uncounted ungodly > amount of time trying to figure out how to get even processing in a > stainless steel tank. I was never able to do it. It is worse on some > films than others and probably worse with some developers than others. I > would get weired non lateral streaks and edge surge and bubbles and > everything else. I tried ever possible way of twisting and turning and > bumping and grinding and anything else you could think of and never was > able completely get rid of it. It was even worse for me with 35mm film. > I process in a dark room anyway so I went with a larger open top tank and > made a stainless steel rod to hold the stainless steel reels and even then > I could not get rid of the processing marks as long as I was trying to > spin and bump and slosh with the film in the developer. It finally > occured to me that if I could completely empty the film reels of developer > by taking them out of the developer entirely and then reimmersing them, I > would have equal fresh developer throughout the reel. So for agitation I > started just lifting the rod full of reels completely out of the developer > tank and then putting it back in. Finally it worked. I have done it that > way now for several years and I get the most even development I have seen. > It is perfect edge to edge even if it is a frame of all sky. > > So with that experience I would say that if I was commited to using a > stainless tank with the lid on in the light, I would always put just 3 or > less rolls of 120 in a 4 roll tank and I would not fill the can clear up > with developer, I would leave a large air space that when I inverted the > can would go through the film reels so they empty of developer for a > second. I would not bother with twisting and turning, I would go just > staight over and back over with a bump for air bells. I have not done it > that way but that is what I would try. > > I also should say that my surge mark problem was not more than what I saw > with other people. Because I have processed for a lot of other > photographers I was very demanding of perfection. it is one thing to > process your own film and get processing marks. You forgive yourself > readily. It is another thing to hire someone to process your film for you > and then get processing marks. Then you get pissed off and complain. > > Just last week I was in a photo place that does my color film and on the > way out a guy from the lab came running out to catch me. They use > stainless steel tanks and process B&W film by hand and the lab guy was > frustrated using XTOL and he was getting surge and weird marks on peoples > film. I told him the same thing, if you want perfect film you have to > process in the dark. > > Now I am sure that 20 people will respond with how they do get perfect > film in a can, and I don't doubt it but I could never do it myself. > > Dennis > > > > > > > > On 10/3/07, dpurdy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <dpurdy@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > >> > >> What I saw on eroustam's image was even plus density coming in from > both > >> sides. I have seen this many times from development on reels when > there > >> is not even developer exchange across the film. There is more fresh > >> developer on the outside of the reels after agitation than on the > inside > >> of the reels. It is a very consistant progression of density from > >> outside > >> to inside. Light leaks would be actually light streaking across the > >> film > >> and would be very inconsistant due to all the variables. It should be > >> more on one side than another and you probably could see some paper > >> texture. Also light leaking in loose rolls is generally located right > >> at > >> the edges and then falls off really quickly where as on eroustams > >> it > >> was a gradual even fall off from edge to center. > >> But you never know for sure till you fix it. > >> Dennis > >> > So it seems from comments in this thread that I may be completely > >> wrong > >> > about light leaks from a loose roll or from the camera's edges > >> allowing > >> > light leaking in? That's what I always thought it was since I got > this > >> > problem on negs with my 2.8E Planar and 3.5E3 Xenotar (both real ugly > >> > users) > >> > but negs from my pristine 2.8C Xenotar and my Hasselblads do not have > >> > this....thus I thought it must be a camera issue and not processing > >> since > >> > I > >> > often process negs from a mix of cameras and do not see this across > >> all > >> > the > >> > negs. But people seem pretty set that it's a processing issue. But > >> my > >> > facts seem to fly in the face of that..... > >> > > >> > Comment anyone? Is there a reason it's NOT a loose roll or edge > light > >> > leaks > >> > in the camera? > >> > > >> > Richard S. > >> > San Francisco > >> > > >> > See my Commute Photo Blog! > >> > http://shootingonthefly.blogspot.com/ > >> > > >> > My Flickr Page > >> > http://www.flickr.com/photos/rich8155/ > >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > On 10/3/07, Richard Knoppow <dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> >> From: "ERoustom" <eroustom@xxxxxxxxxxx> > >> >> To: <rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > >> >> Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 5:05 AM > >> >> Subject: [rollei_list] Re: Planar 2.8 coverage > >> >> > >> >> > >> >> > Thanks! This was my first roll in Rodinal, and since > >> >> > Ilford's spec sheet gave one time, and Rodinal gave > >> >> > another, I split the difference, so maybe not enough > >> >> > time. and maybe back to 5 seconds every 10 minutes. I use > >> >> > a stainless steel tank, agitating for the first 10 > >> >> > seconds of each minute. Ilftoec HC never gave me this > >> >> > problem, but the grain is much much finer with Rodinal. > >> >> > > >> >> > I wonder though about how tightly the camera is holding > >> >> > the film. This is the same roll that gave me the strange > >> >> > light leak across frames. > >> >> > > >> >> > Thanks again all. > >> >> > > >> >> > Elias > >> >> > > >> >> Curious about the grain. I've never used Ilfotec HC, > >> >> which is similar to Kodak HC-110 but would expect it to have > >> >> somewhat finer grain than Rodinal. I've used Rodinal mostly > >> >> for sheet film and have never had any problems with it but I > >> >> generally use finer grain developers in tanks. I think the > >> >> main thing with tanks is to have a long enough development > >> >> time to average out irregularities in agitation. However, if > >> >> there are surge effects in the tank they are likely to be > >> >> the same even if the time is increased. The most common > >> >> surge marks in inversion type tanks are increased > >> >> development at the edges of the film due to turbulent flow > >> >> in the interstices of the reels, and sprocket hole marks due > >> >> to turbulent flow through these holes, also causing a > >> >> localized increase in development. > >> >> If you find the problem _is_ due to surging I can only > >> >> suggest using a different type of reel or rotating the tank > >> >> along with inverting it. I was taught this trick long ago > >> >> and its become a habit. > >> >> > >> >> --- > >> >> Richard Knoppow > >> >> Los Angeles, CA, USA > >> >> dickburk@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > >> >> > >> >> --- > >> >> Rollei List > >> >> > >> >> - Post to rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > >> >> > >> >> - Subscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'subscribe' > >> >> in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org > >> >> > >> >> - Unsubscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with > >> >> 'unsubscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into > >> www.freelists.org > >> >> > >> >> - Online, searchable archives are available at > >> >> //www.freelists.org/archives/rollei_list > >> >> > >> >> > >> > > >> > >> --- > >> Rollei List > >> > >> - Post to rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > >> > >> - Subscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'subscribe' > >> in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org > >> > >> - Unsubscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with > >> 'unsubscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org > >> > >> - Online, searchable archives are available at > >> //www.freelists.org/archives/rollei_list > >> > >> > > > > --- > Rollei List > > - Post to rollei_list@xxxxxxxxxxxxx > > - Subscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with 'subscribe' > in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org > > - Unsubscribe at rollei_list-request@xxxxxxxxxxxxx with > 'unsubscribe' in the subject field OR by logging into www.freelists.org > > - Online, searchable archives are available at > //www.freelists.org/archives/rollei_list > >