Thank you for your helpful responses, especially the one correcting my notion that I should be able to increase contrast to the extent I want by using a high contrast developer with the same paper. I am using the El-Nikkor 105f5.6 enlarging lens. Isn't this a pretty good one? It shouldn't be a cause for uneven or irregular densities, should it? When intensifying a negative with Kodak Rapid Selenium Toner, is it necessary to first treat it to 'harden' it, ie., to prevent blotching or other unevenness? with formaldehyde? Harry > > >> I have the following formula for Agfa 108 paper developer: >> metol...5 >> grams/liter, sodium sulfite...40 g/l hydroquinone...6 >> g/l potassium >> carbonate...40 g/l potassium bromide...2 g/l >> >> >> I have tested this Agfa 108 with Ilford multigrade fiber >> paper without (for >> reasons detailed below) a polycontrast filter , but find >> that my prints need >> more contrast than this already high contrast developer >> provides. So, in an >> effort to gain contrast, I have modified the developer as >> follows: reduced >> metol to 2 grams/liter, increased hydroquinone to 14 >> grams/liter, and, for >> the accelerator, substituted 4 grams/liter sodium >> hydroxide for the >> potassium carbonate. >> >> Having seen no substantial gain in contrast with these >> modifications, I then >> increased the bromide in 1 or 2 gram/liter increments >> until reaching 10 >> grams/liter potassium bromide. Still, I am seeing no >> appreciable increase in >> contrast. >> >> Is there something about modern paper emulsions that makes >> them unresponsive >> to these strategies to increase contrast? Or is this >> problem due to some >> property of the multigrade paper? Would a modern graded >> paper respond to >> these manipulations? >> >> The 2.25 inch square negatives I am printing from require >> absolutely even >> edge-to-edge and corner-to corner illumination from the >> light source of my >> Beseler 4x5M series enlarger with condenser head and PH212 >> lamp. With no >> negative in the glassless negative carrier, when I expose >> a sheet of the >> 16x20 paper at a very low density (zone 8 or so), I get a >> pattern of >> increased density, even after improving the unevenness of >> illumination that >> I encountered initially. The polycontrast filter that I >> would require (3.5 >> or 4) exaggerates this unevenness and makes it too >> apparent when printing >> from the negative. These negatives are extremely >> nerve-wracking if not >> impossible to dodge and/or burn in. >> >> I know, one solution would be to produce a set of more >> contrasty negatives, >> but this would be very difficult to do. >> >> Is there someone on the list who could kindly help me with >> this problem? If >> a graded paper might work for me in this situation, is >> there one that could >> be recommended? >> >> Many thanks. >> > > Since paper emulsions are developed to obtain maximum > density the contrast is pretty much a matter of how the > emulsion is made. There is only a very narrow range of > variation possible with change in developer. Modifying a > developer as above will probably only make it work faster. > If you don't have printing filters for the paper you can > try using camera filters over the enlarging lens. A blue > filter will expose mostly the high contrast part of the > emulsion, a Green or yellow filter will give you low > contrast. You will probably have to make partial exposures > through two filters to obtain the contrast you want. Most VC > papers are around Grade 2.5 with no filter on a typical > tungsten lamp enlarger. > Note that the method of increasing the printing contrast > will make no difference in the uniformity of the > illumination, anything which increases printing contrast > will exagerate illumination problems, including the inherent > drop-off of the enlarging lens. > There is some benifit from using a long lens. The > drop-off will be less because the image angles will be > smaller. A long lens will require refocusing the condenser > for best uniformity. If you have an enlarging exposure meter > it will help to get the illumination uniform. If the problem > is only drop-off toward the corners or edges you can burn in > the corners. I have to do this routinely when using a 135mm > lens for 4x5 negatives unless I am cropping them a lot. > If the illumination is blotchy check the condensers for > blemishes or dirt. Also, if you are using a glass-sandwich > negative holder the increased contrast will also exagerate > any dirt or blemishes on the surfaces. If the glass is not > good quality optical glass you may also be bringing up > uneven transmission due to inhomogeniety in the glass. > Another approach is to intensify the negatives. There is > always a hazard in any chemical treatment of a negative but > it is fairly safe to use Selenium toner. It is capable of > increasing contrast perhaps a paper grade and will protect > the image. Use KRST at 1:9 or even a bit stronger. It will > work slowly enough to be controllable at this dilution. Many > other intensifiers do not produce permanent images or can > damage the emulsion or have other vices but KRST is pretty > safe. Kodak Brown Toner is also safe and will result in well > protected images but I don't know how much intensification > it produces. > > --- > Richard Knoppow > Los Angeles, CA, USA ============================================================================================================= To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,) and unsubscribe from there.