[pure-silver] Re: Darkrooms
- From: Georges Giralt <georges.giralt@xxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2008 15:06:41 +0200
Hi Shannon !
I second Mark advice !
First think about the dimensions of the raw space you have (including height)
and think about the maximum print size you plan/can make (the enlarger height
is of paramount importance here, as it will dictate the maximal print size).
Once you know the maximal size of a print, you have the sink size (5 trays for
this size make the sink....) And once you've the sink, everything else will
follow. Do not forget the space for a fridge, and an as large as you can table
for doing mounting, negative sorting, and so on.
I _do_ suggest that you install your sink(s) at as high as you can, the idea
being that you can rest your forearms on a rail bar during print processing,
while standing up. (or else position them low for processing being sitted on a
chair, if you prefer) If you have them this high, you can use the underneath
space for storage and drying racks. (use L shaped wood to make the rails onto
which you'll slide artist's canvas frame covered with fiber glass mesh (mosquito
window at the general store...)and stainless steel staples to affix the mesh.
Do not forget to paint flat black the wall and ceiling surrounding the enlarger
to cut stray light from bouncing onto the paper during printing time, paint
everithing else flat black in order to have the darkroom as luminous as you can
get with one or two safelights (safelight screens are getting rarer and
expensive these days...) and place as much power plugs as you can because it is
silly how much of them you'll need. (it is better to let an appliance plugged
than to plug and unplug with wet hands) And PROTECT the WHOLE darkroom with a
Ground Fault Interrupter. It saved my life a couple of times....
Hope this helps !
Selon Mark Blackwell <mblackwell1958@xxxxxxxxx>:
> Shannon One bit of a advise as you go through the process. Don't build for
> what you need now. Build for what you might need. You are only going to
> build this darkroom structure once. Build as much flexibility into it now as
> you possibly can. You might only be making 11x14's now, but would 16x20s be
> something you could want to do later? How bout 20x24's? If so, have a way
> to do them, even if you don't set the space up that way now.
>
> Customize this space to YOUR needs. If you need your sink a little lower or
> little higher than a typical counter top, don't worry about typical. Worry
> about comfort. Best way to find that magical height is to do a little
> experimenting. I used a piece of plywood and a few 2x4s to just cut the legs
> to what I thought was the perfect height. If it worked out to be too long, I
> could just cut them again. Too short, and you can just get longer 2x4s.
> Ideally this could go in the darkroom, but in your situation that probably
> isn't practical so Id just do any type of work that required you to work
> standing. For me it was a bit higher than most.
>
> Don't be afraid to think out of the box. I made drying screens with cheap
> PVC pipe and plastic window screens. Held the screens to the pipe frame with
> the same universal glue that holds the frame together. Just make a square,
> use the primer to clean the pipe and then glue. Strong, cheap and easy to
> clean.
>
> On the floor, as you have already thought out and there are advantages to
> both concrete or wood. The cost of concrete has gone way up lately. At one
> time it wss far more cost effective than it is now. Though with anti fatigue
> mats are a great benefit, its still tiring. Wood floors can be just as
> solid, but some of that depends on two things. One is the location. If
> built in an area that is prone to a great deal of settling, then it may not
> be the best option because you are going to have to deal with keeping the
> floor level over time. Wood floors that are solid also depend on proper
> construction techniques. Cutting corners will definitely create problems.
>
> Still if it were me (and it isn't so this may be totally worthless. It's
> also free advise so its worth what you pay for it lol) if I had the budget to
> build as big of a space as I could possibly ever need using concrete, I
> probably would go that route. If I had to sacrifice space that I think I
> might need one day to get that floor, I personally would take the wood floor
> and get the extra space.
>
> The other thing to look at is pre made storage sheds you can find in home
> supply stores. You may be able to find a size that fits your needs cheaper,
> and quicker than stick built. Then you are just adding the extra wiring and
> plumbing.
>
> Good luck and let us know what you decide
>
>
> --- On Sun, 6/1/08, Shannon Stoney <shannonstoney@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
> > From: Shannon Stoney <shannonstoney@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Darkrooms
> > To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Date: Sunday, June 1, 2008, 9:28 AM
> > Wow, this is really nice. I really like your print drying
> > screens. It
> > says that you got the components at a building supply
> > store, but how
> > did you make the rack to slide them into?
> >
> > --shannon
> >
> >
> > On Jun 1, 2008, at 8:35 AM, John Bower wrote:
> >
> > > Shannon:
> > >
> > > While I've had it for some time, I've only
> > recently gotten some images
> > > of my darkroom posted:
> > >
> > >
> > http://www.studioindiana.com/About/John%20Bower/johnbower,darkro.html
> > >
> > > It may give you some ideas.
> > >
> > > --
> > > John Bower
> > > www.studioindiana.com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
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