[pure-silver] Re: Darkrooms
- From: Shannon Stoney <shannonstoney@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 08:45:55 -0500
On Jun 2, 2008, at 8:06 AM, Georges Giralt wrote:
Hi Shannon !
I second Mark advice !
First think about the dimensions of the raw space you have (including
height)
and think about the maximum print size you plan/can make (the enlarger
height
is of paramount importance here, as it will dictate the maximal print
size).
Once you know the maximal size of a print, you have the sink size (5
trays for
this size make the sink....)
I usually use only four trays. Why do you need five?
And once you've the sink, everything else will
follow. Do not forget the space for a fridge, and an as large as you
can table
for doing mounting, negative sorting, and so on.
I _do_ suggest that you install your sink(s) at as high as you can,
the idea
being that you can rest your forearms on a rail bar during print
processing,
while standing up. (or else position them low for processing being
sitted on a
chair, if you prefer) If you have them this high, you can use the
underneath
space for storage and drying racks. (use L shaped wood to make the
rails onto
which you'll slide artist's canvas frame covered with fiber glass mesh
(mosquito
window at the general store...)and stainless steel staples to affix
the mesh.
Do not forget to paint flat black the wall and ceiling surrounding the
enlarger
to cut stray light from bouncing onto the paper during printing time,
paint
everithing else flat black in order to have the darkroom as luminous
as you can
get with one or two safelights (safelight screens are getting rarer
and
expensive these days...)
Not sure what you mean here about the paint: just paint black around
the enlarger? Or everywhere?
--shannon
and place as much power plugs as you can because it is
silly how much of them you'll need. (it is better to let an appliance
plugged
than to plug and unplug with wet hands) And PROTECT the WHOLE darkroom
with a
Ground Fault Interrupter. It saved my life a couple of times....
Hope this helps !
Selon Mark Blackwell <mblackwell1958@xxxxxxxxx>:
Shannon One bit of a advise as you go through the process. Don't
build for
what you need now. Build for what you might need. You are only
going to
build this darkroom structure once. Build as much flexibility into
it now as
you possibly can. You might only be making 11x14's now, but would
16x20s be
something you could want to do later? How bout 20x24's? If so, have
a way
to do them, even if you don't set the space up that way now.
Customize this space to YOUR needs. If you need your sink a little
lower or
little higher than a typical counter top, don't worry about typical.
Worry
about comfort. Best way to find that magical height is to do a little
experimenting. I used a piece of plywood and a few 2x4s to just cut
the legs
to what I thought was the perfect height. If it worked out to be too
long, I
could just cut them again. Too short, and you can just get longer
2x4s.
Ideally this could go in the darkroom, but in your situation that
probably
isn't practical so Id just do any type of work that required you to
work
standing. For me it was a bit higher than most.
Don't be afraid to think out of the box. I made drying screens with
cheap
PVC pipe and plastic window screens. Held the screens to the pipe
frame with
the same universal glue that holds the frame together. Just make a
square,
use the primer to clean the pipe and then glue. Strong, cheap and
easy to
clean.
On the floor, as you have already thought out and there are
advantages to
both concrete or wood. The cost of concrete has gone way up lately.
At one
time it wss far more cost effective than it is now. Though with anti
fatigue
mats are a great benefit, its still tiring. Wood floors can be just
as
solid, but some of that depends on two things. One is the location.
If
built in an area that is prone to a great deal of settling, then it
may not
be the best option because you are going to have to deal with keeping
the
floor level over time. Wood floors that are solid also depend on
proper
construction techniques. Cutting corners will definitely create
problems.
Still if it were me (and it isn't so this may be totally worthless.
It's
also free advise so its worth what you pay for it lol) if I had the
budget to
build as big of a space as I could possibly ever need using concrete,
I
probably would go that route. If I had to sacrifice space that I
think I
might need one day to get that floor, I personally would take the
wood floor
and get the extra space.
The other thing to look at is pre made storage sheds you can find in
home
supply stores. You may be able to find a size that fits your needs
cheaper,
and quicker than stick built. Then you are just adding the extra
wiring and
plumbing.
Good luck and let us know what you decide
--- On Sun, 6/1/08, Shannon Stoney <shannonstoney@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
From: Shannon Stoney <shannonstoney@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: Darkrooms
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sunday, June 1, 2008, 9:28 AM
Wow, this is really nice. I really like your print drying
screens. It
says that you got the components at a building supply
store, but how
did you make the rack to slide them into?
--shannon
On Jun 1, 2008, at 8:35 AM, John Bower wrote:
Shannon:
While I've had it for some time, I've only
recently gotten some images
of my darkroom posted:
http://www.studioindiana.com/About/John%20Bower/johnbower,darkro.html
It may give you some ideas.
--
John Bower
www.studioindiana.com
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