[pure-silver] Re: having digital negatives made
- From: "Eric Neilsen Photography" <ej@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 11:57:25 -0600
No, it is not the scan but LVT uses file made in RGB. Your lab can convert
for you if you send a grayscale file. But it depends on lab, so check with
whom ever you use what they want there files in.
Scanning in RGB can be a better workflow but it is not always the answer.
Film type, scanner, scanning software, and most important HOW you use the
scanner and software, will determine much of that. You can ask all sorts of
people and get all sorts of workflows. It is best IMHO to run test on YOUR
equipment and determine what works best for you based on the accumulated
knowledge and advice the specifically relates to your equipment and not some
other type of scanner or software. Don't forget that just like the old
camera camps, Nikon vs Canon vs Leica, etc. there are some bias built in as
well. : )
Eric
Eric Neilsen Photography
4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9
Dallas, TX 75226
214-827-8301
www.ericneilsenphotography.com
SKYPE ejprinter
-----Original Message-----
From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Shannon Stoney
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 11:12 AM
To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [pure-silver] Re: having digital negatives made
So, your scan should be RGB, I assume.
--shannon
On Jan 24, 2009, at 10:04 AM, Eric Neilsen Photography wrote:
> Better is such a loose term. The newer printers give you better
> results with
> the ABW setting than the 2200. However, if silver prints are your goal
> you
> may be better off going with a film negative made with an LVT. Not all
> providers of LVT will or can go up to anything bigger than 8x10. Some
> of it
> depends on the paper that you chose and whether a contact neg is a good
> choice. You also need to learn how much sharpening to add to your film
> to
> make it look right, etc. It is not just a slam dunk thing where you
> provide
> a file and it is perfect first time around. You may want to create a
> file
> with 4 4x5 on a single 8x10 layout and see what adjustments work best.
> ONLY
> deal with a lab that can tell you what your RGB # will translate to in
> real
> density to your negative. And just like with shooting and exposing you
> can
> get absolutely perfect target numbers but they will be really close.
>
>
>
> Eric Neilsen Photography
> 4101 Commerce Street, Suite 9
> Dallas, TX 75226
> 214-827-8301
> www.ericneilsenphotography.com
>
> SKYPE ejprinter
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:pure-silver-bounce@xxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Shannon Stoney
> Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 8:42 AM
> To: pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [pure-silver] Re: having digital negatives made
>
> My enlarger can go up to 4x5. (the 8x10 enlarger is broken right now.)
>
> My ink jet printer is an Epson 2200, but I have access to a 2400. In
> the past my efforts to make digital negatives didn't work out very
> well, but maybe I can try again.
>
> My process is silver. :-) (Although in the past I did do those other
> processes you mention.) My paper scale is 1.2.
>
> So, you are saying that it is better to make a negative for enlarging
> than one for contact printing if possible?
>
> --shannon
>
>
> ere.
>
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