[pure-silver] Re: Oriental Seagull Papers
- From: "Nicholas O. Lindan" <nolindan@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: <pure-silver@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 19 Sep 2007 20:23:39 -0500
From: "B P" <peeperphotos@xxxxxxxxx>
What are the favorite combos (using over the counter products) for the
warmest results without toning?
There is no magic paper, magic developer or magic
combination of the two.
To get warmer tones use very dilute low-activity
developers with warm-tone papers. G262 used
10:1 will get you close to sepia prints. You
will have to overexpose like stink to get any
density. You should pull the print after 3
minutes in the developer, not leave it
till it gets some density (the print will keep getting
darker but it will lose the warm-tone). If there is
not enough density then use more exposure. Don't
be surprised if the required exposure goes up 3-5 stops
(8-32x longer time).
Adding lots of potassium bromide to dilute Dektol
can warm things up quite a bit. Don't be surprised
if exposures go up 10-20x. Make up a 10% solution
of bromide and add it a an ounce/quart (30g/l) till
you get the results you want.
Sometimes WT paper can go greenish, a little slosh in KRST
will fix it.
If you want really thick dense black-brown-deep-red
warm tones you are going to have to play around with toning.
Toned WT can get to 2.6 OD without breaking a sweat. My
eye can't see any detail at that density without klieg
lighting but somehow I can sense there is something
lurking in the shadows.
Ink jet can't do _real_ shadows and possibly never will.
--
Nicholas O. Lindan
Cleveland Engineering Design, LLC
Cleveland, Ohio 44121
=============================================================================================================
To unsubscribe from this list, go to www.freelists.org and logon to your
account (the same e-mail address and password you set-up when you subscribed,)
and unsubscribe from there.
Other related posts:
