[modeleng] Re: milling chuck

  • From: "Ron Head" <ron.head@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  • Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 00:00:30 -0000

Hi Dennis
All I can say is that I've never had a cutter slip.  Any overload just results 
in the belt slipping on the drive pulley.  We 'ME's (or at least, most of us) 
don't work our cutters anything like as hard as they do in industry!

Regards
Ron
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Dennis Rayner 
  To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx 
  Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2008 7:40 PM
  Subject: [modeleng] Re: milling chuck


  Hi Ron,
  Thanks for getting us back on thread - I thought there might be a bit more 
  mileage in this one. When I first started vertical milling, as I said 
  before, I hadn't a clue. I put an endmill in a Jacobs chuck and off I went - 
  result was the battered Dore Westbury with the scored table as the cutter 
  unscrewed itself from the chuck without me noticing. It seemed to me that 
  the cutter needed more than just friction to stop it being pulled out. I 
  have bought a complete imperial set of #2MT collets from ARC Europe but only 
  with work holding in mind. Is it really viable to rely on the friction grip 
  of a 4-jaw collet ( when I know that the friction grip of a 3-jaw Jacobs 
  won't do) rather than having the cutter positively screwed into a thread 
  within the collet with friction only needed to stop it rotating within the 
  collet?

  Regards
  Dennis

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "Ron Head" <ron.head@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
  Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2008 6:38 PM
  Subject: [modeleng] Re: milling chuck


  > Hi Jem
  > Several years ago, I too fitted a Vertex chuck to my Dore-Westbury (I 
  > think the chuck was called a Posilock - in reality a poor man's Autolock). 
  > In practice, I found the thing too unwieldy.  Apart from being a real pain 
  > to use, it wasn't very accurate, and it put the cutter 3-4 inches further 
  > away from the spindle bearings, magnifying any runout and making the whole 
  > thing very 'whippy' due to the small spindle.
  >
  > I went back to using Myford 2MT collets directly in the spindle socket, 
  > and sold the Vertex chuck.  I know this limits me to cutters of 1/2" shank 
  > diameter, but for the sort of work I do, it isn't a problem.
  >
  > Regards
  > Ron
  >  ----- Original Message ----- 
  >  From: JEM HARRISON
  >  To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  >  Sent: Friday, December 26, 2008 11:54 AM
  >  Subject: [modeleng] Re: O/T Christmas greetings
  >
  >
  >  Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all modeleng@freelists.
  >  Â
  >  Dennis,
  >  Â
  >  Good to know that someone else has a battered D-W !
  >  Â
  >  I bought a Vertex (which I gather is a Clark type), probably from 
  > Chronos. It comes in a nice box, with three collets and a wopping great 
  > spanner.....but no instructions. At least a flat-pack from IKEA comes 
  > complete with pictograms...a vast improvement on the martian tomes that 
  > accompany electronic gadgetry. Would-be model engineers are assumed to 
  > know how to fit/strip/use tools and attachments safely and successfully. 
  > Oh, yes?!
  >  Â
  >  The Vertex chuck is, I think, well made, and I would recommend it. My 
  > only reservation would be that I wonder if other designs of milling chuck 
  > might be more suitable for the D-W.
  >  My current project, heading for the scrap-bin, is a pair of cylinders for 
  > the Paul Forsyth 'Jersey Lilly' design in Gauge 1. I purchase two slot 
  > drills (one-sixteenth and one-eighth)from Chronos to mill the steam ports, 
  > but I found that they are not long enough to engage with the nipple in the 
  > chuck, and if they were, I would never get the darned things out! Chronos 
  > have kindly agreed to exchange the slot-drills for the long series, but I 
  > am still waiting for them to arrive.
  >  Â
  >  I suspect that there are other milling chucks more suitable for small 
  > machines, but I have no experience of them. I did wonder about trying the 
  > ER25 collet chuck, but a problem I find with this on my lathe is that if I 
  > remove a work piece from it and re-insert it, it does not run true, so I 
  > have to undo the chuck and rotate the workpiece several times before it is 
  > as near as dammit.
  >  Â
  >  Nothing is straight-forward in this game!
  >  Â
  >  Best wishes,
  >  Â
  >  Jem Harrison
  >  Basildon UK
  >  --- On Fri, 26/12/08, Dennis Rayner <dennis.rayner@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
  >
  >  From: Dennis Rayner <dennis.rayner@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
  >  Subject: [modeleng] Re: O/T Christmas greetings
  >  To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  >  Date: Friday, 26 December, 2008, 10:46 AM
  >
  >  Santa was good to me - he brought me a book on milling (never had any
  >  training in my life) AND spending money!
  >
  >  I've come to the conclusion that I should replace my old Clare chuck with 
  > a
  >
  >  new one for my rather battered Dore-Westbury.
  >
  >  I wondered if any of the (UK?) group members had any recomendations as to
  >  make /model/suppliers?
  >
  >  The D/W has a #2 MT fixing.
  >
  >  Thanks in advance for any advice.
  >
  >  Dennis
  >
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