[modeleng] Re: milling chuck
- From: David Everett <deverett2003@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: Sun, 28 Dec 2008 21:02:47 +0000 (GMT)
DennisOne possible explanation why a collet is more secure compared to a chuck
is that the chuck jaws are bearing on the cutter on 3 points only, whereas in
the collet, the cutter is completely held round its circumference.The screwed
end of the cutter is - in my opinion - just belt and braces. Â I would imagine
that Clarkson type cutters are being phased out by industry as an economy in
manufacture.
DaveThe Emerald Isle
--- On Sun, 28/12/08, Dennis Rayner <dennis.rayner@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
From: Dennis Rayner <dennis.rayner@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [modeleng] Re: milling chuck
To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: Sunday, 28 December, 2008, 7:40 PM
Hi Ron,
Thanks for getting us back on thread - I thought there might be a bit more
mileage in this one. When I first started vertical milling, as I said
before, I hadn't a clue. I put an endmill in a Jacobs chuck and off I went
-
result was the battered Dore Westbury with the scored table as the cutter
unscrewed itself from the chuck without me noticing. It seemed to me that
the cutter needed more than just friction to stop it being pulled out. I
have bought a complete imperial set of #2MT collets from ARC Europe but only
with work holding in mind. Is it really viable to rely on the friction grip
of a 4-jaw collet ( when I know that the friction grip of a 3-jaw Jacobs
won't do) rather than having the cutter positively screwed into a thread
within the collet with friction only needed to stop it rotating within the
collet?
Regards
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Head" <ron.head@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, December 28, 2008 6:38 PM
Subject: [modeleng] Re: milling chuck
> Hi Jem
> Several years ago, I too fitted a Vertex chuck to my Dore-Westbury (I
> think the chuck was called a Posilock - in reality a poor man's
Autolock).
> In practice, I found the thing too unwieldy. Apart from being a real pain
> to use, it wasn't very accurate, and it put the cutter 3-4 inches
further
> away from the spindle bearings, magnifying any runout and making the whole
> thing very 'whippy' due to the small spindle.
>
> I went back to using Myford 2MT collets directly in the spindle socket,
> and sold the Vertex chuck. I know this limits me to cutters of 1/2"
shank
> diameter, but for the sort of work I do, it isn't a problem.
>
> Regards
> Ron
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: JEM HARRISON
> To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Friday, December 26, 2008 11:54 AM
> Subject: [modeleng] Re: O/T Christmas greetings
>
>
> Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all modeleng@freelists.
> Â
> Dennis,
> Â
> Good to know that someone else has a battered D-W !
> Â
> I bought a Vertex (which I gather is a Clark type), probably from
> Chronos. It comes in a nice box, with three collets and a wopping great
> spanner.....but no instructions. At least a flat-pack from IKEA comes
> complete with pictograms...a vast improvement on the martian tomes that
> accompany electronic gadgetry. Would-be model engineers are assumed to
> know how to fit/strip/use tools and attachments safely and successfully.Â
> Oh, yes?!
> Â
> The Vertex chuck is, I think, well made, and I would recommend it. My
> only reservation would be that I wonder if other designs of milling chuck
> might be more suitable for the D-W.
> My current project, heading for the scrap-bin, is a pair of cylinders for
> the Paul Forsyth 'Jersey Lilly' design in Gauge 1. I purchase
two slot
> drills (one-sixteenth and one-eighth)from Chronos to mill the steam ports,
> but I found that they are not long enough to engage with the nipple in the
> chuck, and if they were, I would never get the darned things out!Â
Chronos
> have kindly agreed to exchange the slot-drills for the long series, but I
> am still waiting for them to arrive.
> Â
> I suspect that there are other milling chucks more suitable for small
> machines, but I have no experience of them. I did wonder about trying
the
> ER25 collet chuck, but a problem I find with this on my lathe is that if I
> remove a work piece from it and re-insert it, it does not run true, so I
> have to undo the chuck and rotate the workpiece several times before it is
> as near as dammit.
> Â
> Nothing is straight-forward in this game!
> Â
> Best wishes,
> Â
> Jem Harrison
> Basildon UK
> --- On Fri, 26/12/08, Dennis Rayner <dennis.rayner@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
>
> From: Dennis Rayner <dennis.rayner@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: [modeleng] Re: O/T Christmas greetings
> To: modeleng@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Date: Friday, 26 December, 2008, 10:46 AM
>
> Santa was good to me - he brought me a book on milling (never had any
> training in my life) AND spending money!
>
> I've come to the conclusion that I should replace my old Clare chuck
with
> a
>
> new one for my rather battered Dore-Westbury.
>
> I wondered if any of the (UK?) group members had any recomendations as to
> make /model/suppliers?
>
> The D/W has a #2 MT fixing.
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice.
>
> Dennis
>
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