[tcb] Re: air in the mc

  • From: Neil <nbmdude@xxxxxxxxx>
  • To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
  • Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 08:19:02 -0700 (PDT)

Wait til ya need a 67 ONLY MC!
--- Brian Denning <i_am_cool_fred@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> 
> most early bus and beetle guys cringe when i tell
> them how much some things cost on a bay. i.e. the
> mastercylinder. another one is type IV pistons and
> cylinders...ouch. oh, and beams.
> 
> 
> 
> Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 07:44:59 -0700
> From: bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc
> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> Brian:  Just checked with Oak Hill Auto in Longview
> and they have a new German ATE for $145.  There
> phone # is 903-297-3496 if you want to give them a
> call.  They can UPS it to you, but by the time you
> paid shipping the one at Rogers would probably be
> cheaper.
> 
> Brian Denning <i_am_cool_fred@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:   
>   every FLAPS store go to says they can't get one
> for my bus. A new one cost $200 at bus-boys.com and
> about 150 at roy rogers. guess i'll be going to roy
> rogers in the next month to get a new one.
> 
>       From: sukchew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc
> Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 07:04:37 -0500
> 
>         You don't have any time.Fix your brakes NOW!
> If you don't the fire will have been minor.If you
> don't have brake assist the mc should be around 40
> bucks at your FLAPS.I just bought one for a bug for
> 30 bucks.    ----- Original Message -----   From:
> Brian Denning   To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx   Sent:
> Tuesday, March 11, 2008 6:35 AM  Subject: [tcb] Re:
> air in the mc  
> anybod got a good new mc they'd sell me for cheap??
>  
> apparently mine is bad 
>  
> i have driven the bus like this since august...how
> long do i have?
> 
> 
>       Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 19:46:08 -0700
> From: bugcollections@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc
> To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> It sounds to me like you have a leak in
>  the MC.  Fluid going past the piston (which it is
> not supposed to do) which means a new master
> cylinder.
> 
> Brian Denning <i_am_cool_fred@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:   
>    ok, the mastercylinder has 3 lines coming out of
> it one that goes to the rear one for the left front
> and one for the right front. at the mastercylinder i
> bled all air out of it...there was lots in the line
> that went to the rear of the bus and some that went
> to the driverside front. so i bled all the air out
> at the MC then i went to the right rear. by i, i
> mean a friend of mine. we did the ol' tube in a
> bottle of fluid trick. got some small bubbles out of
> the right rear, next we went to the left rear, man
> oh man there were some
>  bubbles after we pumped it two or three times. then
> we went to the right front, it took forever to get
> to fluid (keep in mind i have already bled
> everything 4 times before this point) then we went
> to the driverside front. got air.
>  
> pedal then worked but not impressive. so we decided
> to pressure bleed the system at this point pump,
> pump pump HOLD!!! right rear spit out air twice then
> solid fluid shot out like a water cannon. pump pump
> pump HOLD!!! left rear did the same. moved to the
> right front it took 5 tries to get the final air out
> of it. then we moved to the right side. fluid came
> out like an old man trying to pee, slow and it
> dribbled for a bit.  we did that for a bit and then
> all of the sudden the fluid shot out so strong it
> hit the  other side. tightened it up 
>  
> the brakes are great, they don't give way but there
> is still a slight problem, if i come on strong at
> first they work great. i even tested them and
> managed to get all four
>  wheels to lock up, if i eas on them the pedal goes
> down about half way till it works, and if i just
> gently push it in it still goes to the floor.
>  
> what do ya'll think? mastercylinder needs replaced
> or still some air hidden somewhere? i am buying the
> appropriate tool from harbor freight this weekend
> and will try it again but i am leaning towards a
> mastercylinder. like a friend once told me "rebuilds
> only last so long"
>  
> 
> > From: sukchew@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc
> > Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 17:49:27 -0500
> > 
> > You also can use a hand vac pump and suck the
> fluid thru the system so 
> > pressure does not have to be applied to to the
> master cyl.
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Gerald V. Livingston II"
> <gerald.tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: <tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 4:31 PM
> > Subject: [tcb] Re: air in
>  the mc
> > 
> > 
> > > I've used it. It only needs to be at about 10
> PSI. Works GREAT. Just have 
> > > to make sure the reservoir stays full and pump
> it back up to 10PSI every 
> > > once in a while. Because it's forcing the fluid
> into the M/C at the normal 
> > > inlet locations it helps "grab" the air bubbles
> with the moving fluid and 
> > > pulls them out into the lines.
> > >
> > > Bleed the whole system in under 30 minutes with
> no pedal pumper helping 
> > > you and complaining he whole time. ;-)
> > >
> > > G2
> > >
> > > Brian Denning wrote:
> > >> i'm afraid it would blow the fill line off the
> resevoir.
> > >>
> > >> > Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 14:50:57 -0500
> > >> > From: eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >> > To: tcb@xxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >> > Subject: [tcb] Re: air in the mc
> > >> >
> > >>
>  > Have you actually used this power bleeder?
> > >> > Do they work well?
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >> > Gerald V. Livingston II wrote:
> > >> > > Brian Denning wrote:
> > >> > >> that is the concensus on the master
> cylinder. any tricks to 
> > >> bleeding
> > >> > >> it with it installed? just unhook the hose
> and pump away or what?
> > >> > >>
> > >> > 
> > >> >>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >> > >> Need to know the score, the latest news,
> or you need your
> > >> > >> Hotmail®-get your "fix". Check it out.
> > >> > >> <http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx>
> > >> > >
> > >> > > I've read the other replies. If it is air
> in the M/C then you either
> > >> >
>  > have to pull the M/C and bench bleed it OR go
> ahead and take it to a
> > >> > > shop that has a motorized vacuum bleeder
> and let them do it.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > You may also be able to clear it by buying
> and using a Motive Power
> > >> > > Bleeder:
> > >> > >
> > >> > > 
> > >>
>
<http://www.amazon.com/Air-Cooled-VW-Power-Bleeder/dp/B0002KM5LK/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1205174704&sr=1-8>
> > >> > >
> > >> > >
> > >> > > That's a nice tool to have available
> anyway. Makes bleeding brakes 
> > >> EASY!
> > >> > >
> > >> > > Gravity bleeding won't get a bubble sitting
> at the top of the M/C.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > Gerals
> > >> > >
> > >> > >
> > >> >
> > >>
>  >
> > >>
> > >>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------
> > >> Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The
> Biggest 
=== message truncated ===



      
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